HOrnbrod

Tom, do you happen to know the load rating of which FSJ vehicle spring is close to the MJ MT springs (1440-1700 lbs depending on the config)?

Never had that code on my former 96 or 01 XJs. Did a search on "aw4 code p0740 jeep cherokee" and the most common fixes were a bad TPS or simply changing the tranny fluid. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/code-p0740-torque-converter-shot-35461/

I didn't say they are the only safe hooks. It is absolutely unsafe to bolt hooks directly to the unibody -- reinforced mounting brackets are a must. I think the C4x4 kit is the best. The one you linked to also looks decent but I haven't seen it "up close and personal." There are others out there, as well -- including (last I knew) as individual parts from Keystone (the Chinese fender vendor). Take your pick -- just DON'T bolt tow hooks (or D-rings) directly to the unibody. Eagle didn't say C4x4 were the only "safe" hooks, someone else did whom I normally don't listen to. :D However Eagle was involved in the early development of the Hi Country hooks as well as Pete and other CC members. The final product, based on a lot of CC input, is, as jpdocdave says, is very high quality and as "safe" if not more so than the C4x4 product. An added benefit is that they reinforce the crack-prone frame area supporting the steering gear. http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5241&hilit=tow+hooks

You'll need a scanner Corry. Autismzone and others will plug one in and scan it for free. I have the codes for Jeep OBDII, but whomever (whoever?) scans it should also, but let me know if I can help. :cheers:

I've done this before. Get the correct size hose barb fitting to NPT adapter fitting (it's either 5/16" or 3/8" hose to 1/8" NPT as I remember) along with a 1/8" NPT tap if you don't have one. Tap the rad neck filler hole out carefully and screw the adapter into the tapped hole carefully using teflon tape. The adapter will be under pressure off and on if the pressure in the cooling system gets over 12#, so a new radiator cap might be in order too. http://fittingsandadapters.com/malpiptap.html

Looks like the 91-92 HO grille. :clapping:

Try searching mate. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10299&p=101707&hilit=horn+grounding#p101707

Lock wire. http://www.rc51.org/wire1.htm

In that case if you keep the 5-spd you'll have to find an manual tranny OBDII PCM for it. Pretty sure you can't use the wrong PCM on an OBDII. OBDI 95 and below yes, but not OBDII.

Good pics Fiat. :cheers: The geniuses at Thomas & Betts Co. who invented tie-wraps in 1958 are true American heroes.

The extra side bolster pads (3-piece back) seats were an option on the lower models (Sport, Base, etc.) and standard equipment on the higher end models (Eliminator, Laredo, etc.). Not written in stone but generally true. This continued until the seat redesign in 1994. The internal frames are identical, except for the tilt latch hardware, and the latch "lock" slot in the bottom. So you can interchange the two frames providing you transfer the tilt hardware and might have to cut a slot for the lock. The 1-piece and 3-piece upholstery backs will also swap using the appropriate pad(s). Retain the side bolsters if possible - much more comfortable. :cheers: Image Not Found

Like I said before, this is a small town GM dealership. I know all the techs, the service manager, sales staff, and the owner's a friend. It's been here since the 20's and I honestly don't know how they are still holding on, but they are. No appointments necessary; just drop in and they go to work on it. :D A GM certified tech does the oil changes and lubes. He's been working there for over twenty years. They use only Purolator filters. He's the same guy that does alignments, brakes, tuneups, and most all suspension work. Just because you haven't found any dealerships worth a crap does not mean there aren't any Dave. EDIT: However, most of the other dealerships I've been to are crap, as well as most of the independents. Most of the good old-timers are gone now, and everyone's trying to turn a fast buck it seems at the expense of the customer, not trying to build customer loyalty via good dependable service. I don't trust any of the bastids frankly and do everything I can myself. :D

Well, if the wiring to the gauge reads continuity, the next step is to pull the sender out of the tank. Check for full swing of the float arm w. no binding, a leaking float, and corrosion or open windings on the potentiometer or terminals. Put an ohmeter across the potentiometer terminals and check for a smooth up and down swing of the ohmeter when you raise and lower the arm. I know - major PITA............... :(

If your Mom bought the car new, why didn't she have the oil changes and lubes done by the original dealer? In some cases, having it done by a 3rd party voids the warranty. And I don't know about IL, but here the dealer oil change and lube is considerably cheaper than no skill clowns like QuickLube, 30sec whatever, and the Midas idiots. The dealer charges $29 total for lube, oil and filter, and fixes stuff they find for free here. (Small town) :D Having the car serviced by the original dealer also pays off after the warranty is over. They replaced two OEM tires for free (after the warranty expired) after trying to fix a slight shimmy the wife's Malibu SS had since new. Along the way the replaced the tie rod ends, rotated the tires, countless balancing jobs, all free. But I realize - not all dealerships are created equal.

Just curious who/what you are referring to??

Ecocap! Even with my Leer MJ cap on, I get 3-4 more MPG on the freeway than w/o it. I suspect though that the extra weight hauling it around town eats that savings up............ :(

:rotf: NE Jersey does have one thing I like about it Terra - the folks in that area love their boxing tradition and some great fighters came out of Jersey City, Paterson, Elizabeth, Bayonne, even Hoboken. But nothing good ever came out of Secaucus. :D

Bring a gas mask - it's pretty close to Secaucus. :D

Use a 1/4" male spade connector and plug it into an IGN switched 12V terminal on your interior fuse box. Run this IGN switched 12V wire to one side of a SPST NO (normally open) dash switch. I used an XJ rear window defrost dash switch. Run another wire from the other side of the switch through the firewall to one side your fan relay coil. Ground the other side of the coil.

Man, she's a beauty Taz. About the only thing that stands out like it doesn't belong is the ratty hood pad, but that's easy to remove/replace. :D Love the color too. Do you know the paint code?

I have a 97 head on my stroker. It has the tapped hole for for the gauge temp sensor. The casting number for the 96-99 heads is 0630. I've never seen a 0630 head w/o the tapped hole, although I've read reports that it's possible.

Pull apart the connector on the top of the fuel tank (3 pins; power, ground, and the sender signal to the gauge), spray some contact cleaner on the pins, them plug it back in. Also check the ground screw behind the left tail lamp and clean it up. Wassa matter for you?? You haven't caught a bigger bass yet than the one on your avatar? :D

Cut the wires off the connector, strip back about 1/2" of the insulation, then crimp on 1/4" RED female spade connectors (for the 18AWG gauge wire), then plug them on the light terminals as explained above. These connectors are available at Autozone, etc. get the crimping tool also.

Did you ever talk to Lee about sponsorship (meaning $$ and/or as a test bed for newly developed go-fast parts? He's done it before. Might be a good time since he's put a hold on the alloy block development for now, and there's a lot of stuff he has now that might need testing. Just a thought... :D

Gracias. :cheers: