HOrnbrod

Lived for many years in Guam, then the Marshall Islands. Loved it all. I always looked at Oahu as an unavoidable overpriced overnight stopping place back and forth to the Lower 48, and to pick up things I needed but couldn't find further west. The Oahu North Shore used to be unspoiled and pretty nice twenty years ago, but now it's nearly as FU as Hono. Never felt welcome there as I did in Guam or the Marshalls since I'm a Ha ole. It's a place to pass through quickly now IMO. :shake:

You can calibrate the gauges, but you need specialized test equipment. DO NOT pull the needle on a gauge to make it read what you think it should read. You bought the oil pressure sender from Autism Zone, right? What is the part number of the sender you bought? Shaped "like a bell" is correct, but there are many oil pressure senders shaped like a bell with different HI-LO ohm ranges.

This is the horn contact you need for the Jeep 3-spoke wheel. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt=735-2822&Ntk=Keyword&Nty=1&Dn=0&D=735-2822&Dk=1&Dp=3&N=0

http://sw-em.com/anti_corrosive_paste.htm Good stuff.

Worked in military Cal Labs for many years. Automotive, aviation, RF, VHF, and micro-electronics. Use of dielectric grease on any shiny metal-to-metal contact in a connector, be it a single or multi-pin connector, high or low voltage, AC/DC, high or low frequency, whatever, is a strict MILSPEC verboten in any environmental application as dielectric grease is non-conductive. Read resistance. It's a sealant, designed to keep contaminants out, i.e. a coating for the boots, weather-tech shell, or whatever protective shield around the electrical harness joint. Use it if you wish on metal-to-metal, I don't and never will. And yes, I'm absolutely sure of this.

Looks super Jim (except for that nasty white stuff on the ground), hell of an upgrade. Congrats! WTH, it's only $$, you only live once, and it's good for the family. Lots of room to work the Jeeps now. Now, tell me where it's at so I'll know where to go when I visit my 95+ year old auntie in Reading? :cheers:

To clarify, dielectric grease is non-conductive sealant and it's purpose in life is to prevent contaminant entry (like H2O) into electrical connectors, spark plug boots, etc. It should never be used on any shiny metal-to-metal connector pins or relay terminals after cleaning as it will add resistance.

The fuel pump ballast resistor's value is about 1.3 ohms. It's bypassed when starting so the fuel pump gets full battery voltage, then is relayed into the FP circuit to lower the voltage to the pump which prolongs it's life and lowers the operating noise. A corroded terminal on the ballast resistor can cause an ohm or two resistance by itself. I think you just lucked out replacing the ballast resistor because by unplugging and replugging the spade connectors you wiped out some corrosion resistance. I hope not, but I think you have a temp fix mate. :cheers:

Peyton better get the best offensive line in history wherever he goes or he won't last a year, especially the way his neck is now. It's a no-brainer for any defensive line coach against Payton; rush him and take him out because he's not leaving the pocket. At least Eli can motor out of there and pick up a first down or three about every game. I don't care where he goes; he'll be taking a hellacious pounding this season and if he makes it through the year it will be a miracle. Whichever stupid team picks him up will soon be stuck with a huge contract and have to unload damaged goods. Ersay did the right thing in Indianapolis.

You're right, Eli isn't half the QB pouting Peyton is, he's twice the QB. I'll take the steady, reliable, and dependable Eli in a crucial game over his moody prima donna brother anyday. Peyton may have more natural talent, but Eli's a proven winner when it's crunch time. But better than either one of them was their Daddy Archie. :cheers:

They bulbs are #74s. http://www.quadratec.com/products/97000_501.htm

If no one replies, I'll check it out tomorrow on my 91 and let you know the bulb number.

4.10 w. 31s. It's just a bit lower than the stock factory final drive ratio and won't hurt mileage. Might even improve it a bit. :cheers:

PM sent.

No problem adding oil through the dip stick tube; it goes to the same place. Oil cap ratchet broke possible fix: http://www.stu-offroad.com/engine/oilchange/oilchange-3.htm

Eagle is right; it makes more sense to use the existing fan relay wiring rather than adding another relay. Since I run two electric fans, and the main cooling fan is where the mechanical fan used to be, I wanted a means to manually control the aux fan from the dash in case my main fan went belly-up. I wanted to retain the factory controls of the aux fan (ON when A/C is on, and/or when the temp reaches 225* or so). So I simply tapped into the coil side of the stock fan relay and wired the new dash switch to apply a ground signal to the coil and trigger the fan as in the wiring diagram. This diagram is for the HOs. The Renix aux fan uses switched 12VDC rather than a ground to the fan relay coil, but the wiring principal is the same. Use your new dash switch to apply a signal (Ground or 12VDC) to the coil side of the existing fan relay.

That's enough. :thumbsup:

I don't understand either, and I don't want to understand. :roll:

Are the wheel studs too short in this pic or is this just an illusion? Looks like not much thread engagement on the lug nuts. :dunno:

Yep, SpiderTrax 1-1/4" hub-centric / wheel-centric spacers. Same width at the flares. Cures the factory wide butt look. Before: After:

You have the same high-butt rake as the shuttle. :yes:

Here's another from a 91 Elim even more expensive:

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There's plenty around cheaper - do a search. Push pins can be had at Home Depot or similar cheap. http://www.amazon.com/A0215--Front-Driver-Inner-Fender/dp/B005OCILXM/ref=sr_1_10?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1331322616&sr=1-10

L & R front only. They are installed by lining up the inner fender well holes with the mounting holes in the body and using plastic push pins.