HOrnbrod

That MJ is an older model as it has a pre-1990 three-piece chrome grill, so maybe they were made earlier?

Same year I used. :cheers: I had a little milkiness at first but it all went away after a couple of days' driving. The pressure hose to the box nut is tough to tighten well. I have a set of 3/8" crowfoot wrenches that work well to tighten it using a long 3/8" extension.

Err, there's a telephone number there in the pic. Give them a call and find out. :cheers:

Yes. :nuts: The OP has a 2" lift with 31s. Maybe you missed that Murphy. That's plenty of "space" for me for such a quick simple job. Maybe not for enough for you though it seems?

I don't assume anything. That's why I posted. :nuts:

If you do one side at a time with it setting on the ground w. front wheels blocked fore and aft (not jacked up at all), it will work fine. I did the left side LCA first. Whole job took less than an hour with zero rotation of the axle.

Yep, that's the one I was thinking of. That must be a real joy to drive in a heavy crosswind with a sloppy steering gear box. :eek:

What year ZJ steering gear box did you use Tom?

That would work for the 91-92. Good plan. Check out this thread: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/Whitebground.htm You would have to change all the gauge faces, but could be nice.

:thumbsup: Guessing you have not seen too many? Si?

No. "Could I simply remove the gauges from the white unit (without removing the needles) and put them in the blue one"? To translate, the "white unit" is the HO gauge cluster housing; the "blue one" is the Renix. Three of the gauges are different and use different inputs, the clusters have different mounting bosses for the gauges, the 91+ is an electronic speedo - not cable driven, the printed circuit foil is entirely different between the two gauge pod housings, the fuel gauge is a different polarity, etc. etc. No way.

This is the sexiest rear end I've ever seen. I'd buy one in a heartbeat. :drool: Image Not Found

I'm using standard automotive 30A relays, no problems. Additionally using 25A fuses on the relay load supply 12VDC input via an aux fuse panel.

The resistance is right at 1.3 ohms. It is supposed to get hot, hot enough to burn you if you touch it. It's a wire-wound power resistor with a porcelain insulator to dissipate the heat. Clean the contacts well then check the resistance. They normally last forever if the contacts are kept shiny clean.

Lighters and ducks. Image Not Found Image Not Found

This writeup should answer most of your questions: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=8342&hilit=fan

Please edit into your signature what model/year/engine/etc. MJ you have so we don't have to guess. Since you say "long and skinny" radiator I ASSume you have the 4.0 I6. If that is the case, then do as lostissues says; purchase the 10-blade electric late model fan. Draws more amps on startup, but pulls about 50% more air than the older square 5-bladers. And I'm not comfortable using aftermarket fans; I'd rather get a used low-mileage fan from the yard than from an offshore marketeer. Who knows what the specs on those things are. :dunno:

I built a 7' W x 15'L pier on the small lake in the backyard years ago using 6'x6' treated timbers spaced at 5' intervals. Timbers are easier to build framework around than poles. Still hanging fine. The first thing to determine is get out there in a boat w. a length of 1"-2" pipe and drive it into the water at the distance where you want the length of the pier from the bank. Got lucky and hit bedrock at about 1' into the mud. I was able (with help) to drive them in w. a huge BFH from the boat till they bottomed out, plumbing them up, then build the frame using a level for each timber and plenty of carriage bolts. I built it with a 2" rise to allow for settlement, and it's remained level for years, even after floods. Normally it's 2'-3' above the water. Pics below is when the water rose about 7' during a flood. Didn't need no freaking tractor in my case. Determine how far you have to go into the mud first.

Wallah or whatever is the pseudo phonetic pronunciation for the French Voila! Nice to know info for the future so you can use it correctly. (And not sound like a fool) :thumbsup:

The OBDI system is supposed to Pete, although I've never had one. The codes are as follows: 21: Oxygen sensor or circuit. O2 sensor or wiring faulty. 51: O2 detects lean mixture. Check sensor and circuit and for vacuum leaks. 52: O2 detects rich mixture. Check fuel injection system and sensor. This is a good point, and I continually forget about it. To the original poster, do check the fault codes using the ignition key sequence as below to see if anything shows up that's not normal. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=29857

Just the electrical connector to start. Also follow the harness up to where it goes into the fuel injector rail and make sure it's not fried or shorted. It passes pretty close to the exhaust manifold. If everything electrically passes the eyeball test, might as well replace the O2 sensor. If it's the original it's overdue..............

Well, actually the one I have now is polished stainless, not chrome. But it has brass bristles. :D

I've been using the same toothbrush for cleaning everything for a long time now. It's getting pretty nasty. Even Gus won't use it anymore. maybe it's time to invest in another.........

Either that or more likely they had a stockpile of the old bezels left over and didn't want to waste them. I don't like the looks of them now, reminds me of a granny trying to look younger, but I sure admire that they're still producing them.