HOrnbrod

Yeah, and he's about 45 minutes away too. I did email him, and he only had two power sliders, both sold. The rest listed were just flat glass MJ rear cab windows, not even manual sliders. Damn! Good score Boilermaker. It went to a good guy. :cheers: Keep us informed on how it goes with the slider install.

Well crap, I missed those. :(

Six MJ power sliders?

Wow, the EPS700 CR Lawrence MJ power slider. Where in the world did you find that mate? It's for sure worth getting it fixed because there are no more, and I've been looking a long time. I would take it to the largest and most reputable glass shop in your area and have them take a peek at it. When I had mine put it (non-power), two of them came in to the shop damaged (bent) and were replaced. But it'll never happen with the power version. Won't hurt to have a good shop look at it.

There is a L and R, and there is a different p/n for each. You can see the L and R scratched on the inside. Image Not Found

It's on page 2 of the posted link and has nothing to do with an S10 tailgate handle. It's a fabbed replacement part for the original MJ handle. Good job too. :cheers:

Very odd, nut I believe it now. The step bumper bracket part numbers are 55009382-3 for all the MJ years, and these are the only part numbers listed in every manual w. no distinction between LWB and SWB. I have a couple of sets of NOS brackets and will dig them out and take some pics to see which ones they look like.

Like I said, the rear MJ factory step bumper brackets are the same throughout the 86-92 years for both LWB and SWB. I've had a few NOS bumpers and brackets pass through here. Side by side they are exactly the same. Would like to see what you are talking about in pics.

Well, I sure have to agree with the cody-man on this one. No Way José would I do this.

The correct part number is 53005309 for the 88 2.5L w. gauges. Many sources online (do a search) or bring the p/n to your local parts house and have them cross it.

My oil plug has always leaked. Tried fiber, o-rings, even nylon gaskets. I found some copper crush washers on Ebay and tried one. That did the trick. Luckily I bought eight of them and change the washer every time I change the oil.

1997 and up XJ, 4.0L w. A/C, power steering belt routing sticker

No problem Marcus. You know my address. :cheers:

Clearly Jay. I can still function well in back rooms. Very back rooms. :D But we digress because unfortunately it'll never happen. Pity. Marcus-san, thanks for posting here and if there is any way we can help smooth the way for parts or anything other, a lot of us are willing and able. :cheers:

Yep Jay, his level of detail is (I hate this word, but it fits in this case) awesome. Wish I knew of him when I was crawling around Oz back in the 80s. I agree this should be a pickup that Chrysler should be building. Who wouldn't buy a resto Willys-look Jeep pickup with a big V8 and all the modern conveniences? Damn sure I would, over the Mopar factory resto Chargers, Darts, Challengers, etc. cars. And those things are selling pretty well. Pickup trucks are the best selling platform last time I looked - how about a resto Willys/Jeep pickup? I know they would sell better than a Prowler or some of the other fiascoes Chrysler has attempted.

Marcus is posting more details on his Willys build here: http://www.nagca.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43454

Well, you know what they say. Memory retention is the first (or is the the second?) thing to go. I forget. IB watching it now though. :yes:

Damn Ben, I posted in that thread and don't even remember doing it. :doh:

Probably, or some will be packing every connector that doesn't move with dielectric grease, or even Vaseline.

Ah well, must be a Renix thing. All my brake line flare nuts are metric. Sorry for the confusion. :(

Gojeep is at it again. Got an email from Marcus tonight letting me know about his magnificent build. wasn't even aware of it. All I can say is WOW! Bo, Jim, you'll like this one........ :cheers: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/WillysHotrod1.htm

Much. :cheers: I'm not trying to be a tool Cruiser. I'm an old Grounding, Bonding and Shielding guy who worked for many years in military calibration labs all over and have seen the problems caused over time by using non-conductive pastes or grease on metallic electrical connections. very important stuff especially on aircraft. :eek: The electrical cleaning and grounding procedures you detail are excellent. Unfortunately preventive maintenance like this is seldom done on a vehicle until a problem occurs. I for one thank you for taking the time to develop these procedures and posting them up. Keep pounding them in mate. :thumbsup:

I have yet to see any flares on an MJ that look as good as the stock flares. Here's one solution to extend your flares out. And it looks good too. :cheers: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoFlareExtensions.htm

Here we go again. I agree with everything Cruiser says except the use of dielectric paste on any shiny metal-to-metal contact in an electric connector, be it a single or multi-pin connector, high or low voltage, AC, DC, or high or low frequency RF. In every military electrical standard (MILSPEC) ever written the use of non-conductive pastes like dielectric grease is strictly verboten because of the resistance it creates. Dielectric grease is non-conductive sealant and it's main purpose in life is to prevent contaminant entry (like H2O) into electrical connectors, spark plug boots, etc. You can use it on the connector shell or rubber boot, but never on the metal-to-metal connections. It will bite you in the butt over time. There are many safe conductive paste products available that will seal contaminants out and not cause contact resistance like Kopr-Shield (best for copper-to-copper connections) or Ox-Gard (best for dissimilar metal connections). Use dielectric paste it you like on shiny metal-to-metal electric connections. I don't and never will.

http://jeepgarage.free.fr/OWN/drive%20belt%20routing.pdf