HOrnbrod

:dunno: Don't know Jim. I'd love to have it too. She's gorgeous.

Olds. You even replied to it previously. :yes: http://comancheclub.com/topic/39266-mj-hood-options-ideas/page-3?hl=creature&do=findComment&comment=396712

Thanks for the writeup. :thumbsup: Sounds like you're satisfied with them. And sorry for the screwup on the rear D44. I have the D44 also, but with Ford Explorer calipers, that use 3/8" bleed screws.

How many miles are on it now?

Not w/o knowing your transmission and diff gear ratio.

:popcorn:

ZJ, si? It's too short............

You ain't afraid of nuthin Jim. :yes: Tomorrow's fine shipmate.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Jeep-39-Tooth-Speedometer-Gear-Long-Shaft-/151235957549?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item23365d932d&vxp=mtr

I am still looking for the ideal rear sway bar for a LWB MJ. It looks like a rear bar from a GC will work if it's wide enough. If anyone is the proud owner of one of the above fine vehicles, can you measure the distance between the sway bar rear "eyes" where the end links attach? TIA gentlemen (and ladies).

In that case, buy a new computer and try it out. I'd eliminate the simple stuff first, but that's your choice mate. Let us know what happens. :thumbsup:

Speaking of Drahcir, where is that rascal? We never see him anymore.

A 0-60 or 0-100 PSI gauge will work, but you a hose from the gauge to the fuel rail with a specialized adapter fitting that screws to the fuel rail Schrader valve port. Autozone will lend you a fuel pressure gauge set for free (deposit required) if you don't want to purchase one.

Intermittent shutdowns are one of the toughest things to diagnose. What we are doing here is eliminating the obvious before jumping on the ECU ($$ for replacement, and they rarely go bad). So test the fuel pressure, if okay, then bypass the ballast resistor. It's windings could be breaking down when it gets hot, so bypass it and run it like that for awhile to see if it helps. Also, it sounds like this truck is rarely driven. How old is the fuel in the tank? Throw a bottle of dry gas in the tank to get rid of any condensation that may be in the gas.

The ballast resistor is relayed into the fuel pump supply voltage circuit after the engine fires up. It drops the supply voltage to the pump, supposedly making it quieter (pump runs slower) and to make it last longer. Just install a jumper wire across the two resistor terminals, or disconnect the two wires from the resistor and join them together. And yes, low fuel pressure in an MPI fuel injection system can cause low power, stalling, and eventually no power. Just because the pump pisses a little fuel from the test port means nothing. It has to be at the correct pressure and pump a measured quantity of fuel vs. time for the engine to run properly.

Sounds like a possible fuel starvation problem. You really should borrow a set of gauges from Autozone or similar and look at the fuel pressure at the fuel rail port. Also pull your left tail lamp and check / clean / tighten the ground screw under it; it's where your fuel pump is grounded. You can also try bypassing the white porcelain fuel pump ballast resistor on the left fender.

I think he means a Regional Rate A2 box.

In that case (can't see that in your crappy pics Jim :yes: ) , when you turn the A/C on, the 12V applied to the clutch coil is tied directly to ground through the 5-ohm clutch coil windings.

2WD / 4WD Samo-samo http://www.jeep4x4center.com/splash-shield-passenger-side-52005476.html http://www.jeep4x4center.com/splash-shield-driver-side-52005477.html

Original 04 Ranger Tremor:

HERE is one source. The ones using the 1310 u-joints that is.

U-Alabama ROTC in Tuscaloosa. Roll Tide..........

Daughter was accepted for pilot training, but failed the medical due to her marginal eye site. She was very disappointed of course, but ended up riding an E-3 anyhow as an ABM.

My daughter is a USAF Lt stationed at Tinker. Flies in an E-3 Sentry. She loves it.

Since he's a cadet at the Air Force Academy I doubt if he's going anywhere near Ft Bragg. :yes: