HOrnbrod

Part number is 83503722, fits 87-97, so should work.

Yes. You will have to jack up the wheels though. Disconnect the sensor and hook up an ohmmeter across the pins. Rotate the wheels. The meter should "pulse" once per shaft revolution as the magnet on the output shaft passes the reed switch tip. This isn't an infallible test however. I once had a no speedo problem and tested the sensor this way (it's in the FSM) and it tested good. After eliminating other possible causes of speedo failure I could think of, I replaced the reed switch anyhow and the speedo started working again. :dunno:

That is the output speed sensor and the sensor itself or it's wiring could very well be the cause of your problem. It's a reed switch that reads the output shaft RPMs and sends the signal to the TCU for the shifting points. It can also cause your speedometer not to work. It's a major bear to replace on a 4WD because of it's location. BTW, you mentioned your drivetrain is from a 95? Does it use the HO wiring or Renix? Thinking fault codes..........

^^ That's a good quote too mate. :group beer:

Try swapping out the FP relay with another one.

Understand. :cheers:

Maybe look into an MPI conversion?

The HO oil pressure sender is also 0-88 ohms; 0 ohms - 0 psi. OP, make sure the oil pressure sender male spade connector is mated properly to the output wire female end. Sometimes it takes a couple of tries to connect them properly if you still have the rubber boot over it.

The Comfort mode was supposed to provide better fuel economy by shifting gears at lower RPMs than the Power mode. I've never heard of anyone proving that it did though.

The easiest way to lock the AW4 into the POWER mode regardless of wire color or model year is to: 1. Remove the three-pin connector from the POWER/COMFORT switch. 2, The shell of the connector will be stamped A, B, and C for the three pins. 3. Make up your jumper wire as described above in Cruiser's post. 4. Jumper across pins B and C. The AW4 is now in permanent POWER mode.

Tie the tan and blue wires together on my 91, but same principle.

I just leave it on the floor and spread it around with a broom to mix it up with the other fluids. After it dries up in about a year, it makes for a nice floor patina. :cheers:

Perhaps I didn't explain it well enough. The switch got knocked into the COMFORT position last week when I installed a different dash bezel. Previous to that it was in the POWER position for the last ten years with no shifting problems. Ya dig? :yes:

I wouldn't worry about wire color. There were subtle wire color changes throughout the years and I don't know which year the wiring diagram I posted is for. Even the correct Electrical FSM for the vehicle year is not 100% accurate on wire colors. If the individual diodes check out okay, I think the diode module is fine and your problem, if you have one, is elsewhere.

I feel like a flipping idiot. Been screwing around for a week fooling with the TV cable adjustment, AW4 fluid level checks, checking the TPS, etc. etc. because my tranny was shifting way too soon and too often. Turns out the damn POWER/COMFORT switch was in COMFORT. I swapped out the dash bezel last week, so that's when it had to happen, as it's been in the POWER position for about the last ten years. IDIOT!! :shake: :nuts: It won't happen again as I just finished hard wiring the switch permanently to a POWER / POWER switch. Note to self: Always eliminate the obvious first.

NO = Normally Open. NO contacts close when you press the brake pedal to complete the brake light circuit.

Look at the schematic fan diode assembly I posted. You are correct, it is a dual diode assembly with a common cathode, pin B. In order to check it correctly for forward and reverse resistance across the diodes you need to ID pins A, B, and C as shown on the schematic. Using your ohmmeter set on the "diode" symbol resistance scale, measure across pins A and B, then reverse the meter + and - leads and measure across A and B again. One reading should be infinity; the other near continuity. If this is so, the A-B diode is good. Repeat across pins C and B for the C-B diode. Also to avoid false ohm readings when checking across the assembly diodes, pins A, B, and C must be disconnected from the circuit.

Swap the 95 pedal assembly in with the brake switch and wire existing brake light leads to a NO set of contacts on the switch.

I believe you people are reading the OP's post incorrectly? Or maybe I am. He is looking for the "rear leaf spring shackle hangers" :hmm: which I interpret to be the frame brackets that the shackles "hang" from, not the shackles themselves. New MJ shackles are pretty easy to find. Perhaps the OP should clarify what he is looking for............... EDIT: The OP is looking for the shackles, not the brackets.

Good to see a new member posting up pics here using Photobucket. :cheers: We have members who have been here for years and have not figured it out yet.

She's gorgeous and you have done a lot of quality work to keep her that way. A 5" lift with 32" tires wouldn't be in my plans, but she's your rig of course and you can do anything you want to do. Would recommend a non-SOA 3" lift via quality lift springs and coils up front with the appropriate shocks. This way you can easily go back to stock and retain it's value. :thumbsup:

Thanks for looking Adam. The new p/n is 52079383, and that guy is also about $150. :ack: But I did find one of the originals tucked away in Canada for $50, so should be good to go now. :cheers:

You're not going to find them unless you're very lucky - they are long obsolete parts. But if you want to look: 55006824 (Rt. Side), 55006825 (Lft. Side) Your brackets look fine to me for reuse.

Sometimes. For consumable parts, brake parts, and a used cable that could stick me at WOT when I don't want to be, yes, I won't use a junkyard part. Anyhow, have been looking around and found a NOS cable (91 and 92 were unique) for $50. Still to high, but I'll take it over the "offshore" version. The picture of the Omix-ADA cable even looks different than the OEM cable.

Thanks. I'm sure the factory cable is better quality than any aftermarket, but it'll take a looooong time to burn up several aftermarket cables in order to justify the cost of a new factory cable. Anyone try the Omix-ADA accelerator cable?