HOrnbrod

How much of the 00 XJ are you swapping in? Dash, wiring harness, and OBD2 system?

Good writeup. :thumbsup:

I just went through the standard and optional equipment for the Eliminator package. Here are a few things I noticed that stood out. I guess it's possible this is an Eliminator, but it's a strange one. Eliminator Package Equipment Options 4-Speed Auto w. Column Shift.....N/A Black Front & Rear Bumpers.....N/A Silver Front & Rear Bumpers.....Standard Full Gauge Instrument Cluster w. Tach.....Standard Bucket Seats and Center Console.....Standard

http://comancheclub.com/topic/19295-wj-upper-control-arms-installed/ The stock arms measure 15" eye to eye; the WJ arm measures about 14.9".

There is no such plate in the parts manual.

To subscribe for email notifications for threads: Under your user name in the top right hand corner drop-down menu, go to MY SETTINGS > NOTIFICATION OPTIONS. Then check all the boxes under the EMAIL header. Do not check any of the boxes under the NOTIFICATION LIST header. Then SAVE CHANGES at the bottom of the page.

The simple easy solution to injector sizing for a built HO or even a stock engine is having an A/F meter and an adjustable fuel regulator. Then bring it to your local dyno tester to have them dial it in as to your preferences; economy or best performance to verify. Or experiment on your own with different fuel pressures and monitor the A/F meter to get a good balance - just takes more trial and error time. Then drive it until the ECU "learns" the new settings. Not difficult at all. Unfortunately the Renix computer doesn't learn or compensate, it simply takes inputs from the sensors and goes with what comes in goes out. An A/F meter is mandatory IMO for tuning a Renix since the computer is merely a junction block and doesn't adjust or compensate. Of course I'm not a Renix expert, don't want to be, so correct me if I'm wrong in calling the Renix "ECU" a dumb computer.

Thanks Stacks - you have to update your build thread when you get a chance. :yes: Always liked the Clifford stuff since I used to fool around with their products on Chrysler 225 slant six cars back in the day. It's good to see someone doing the same with the AMC I6. :cheers:

I always premix the antifreeze and distilled water in the bottles, then fill, burp, top off, burb, etc. until it's done. That way you know it's a true 50/50 mix throughout.

:hijack: Hey Stacks - interested in how your Clifford MJ is going. Checked your build thread and no posts sine last July. She running and driving?

http://comancheclub.com/topic/16955-adjustable-mj-load-sensing-valve/

Here's a pic of it on my old D35. It's the rubber hose on the left side axle tube at the brake line junction going up to a plastic fitting in the frame.

The Jeepz VIN decoder is not reliable at all. As far as the rest, :dunno: . That's why I asked you all to check it out. I don't think it's an Eliminator. This is the most reliable decoder I've found so far: http://www.uscars.biz/uscars.wordpress/jeep/vin-jeep/

VIN checks out as a base model with column shift and idiot lights. Also comes up as Metric Ton. Check it out: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Comanche-Eliminator-Standard-Cab-Pickup-2-Door-1989-jeep-comanche-eliminator-standard-cab-/111573496233?forcerrptr=true&hash=item19fa4c71a9&item=111573496233&pt=US_Cars_Trucks

Quick Tip: Take a couple of minutes to make sure your axle vent tube is clear on both ends. I went through replacing a couple of left axle seals on my old D35 that would weep after the diff oil got hot. The plastic (nylon?) fitting hole was clogged and had to drill it out so the axle could breathe.

The last west coast team to win the NCAA football national championship was USC in 2004. Before that was in 1991 (pre BCS) when Washington and Miami (Fla.) tied. That has to mean something.

What's the number on the TCU? The correct p/n for the unique 92 models is 53008383. Anything else, including the 91 module, will probably cause problems like torque converter lockup because of the pinouts. The tranny, harness, and module need to be matched for each other.

Yep. Complete Duck domination. I don't feel so bad now that OSU beat Bama. For sure the best team won the national championship. I like the new playoff format; it worked well.

Thanks guys. Appreciate the words. :cheers:

http://comancheclub.com/topic/43067-inner-d35-seals/?hl=inner+seal&do=findComment&comment=437492

Don't assume anything. Count the teeth X2.

#14283 is the Spicer ring gear p/n for the 4.09 ratio "thick" gear set. Mark, rotate and count the number of teeth on the ring and pinion gears and divide. I think you have a 4.09 thick gear set.

Best of luck to you mate. Hang in there. :thumbsup:

A drop in pressure and/or erratic pressure can be caused by a clogged sock filter or rotten fuel line in the tank, or the pump going out. You'll have to pull it out of the tank and take a peek. And replace it while you have it out.

If you have a stock engine you should be using the stock fuel pressure regulator to maintain the proper A/F (air/fuel) ratio. It's pressure is sized for your fuel system, 31 and 39 psi in this case. Obviously you have one that's has a higher pressure rating and you're just wasting fuel. You should be using the below or similar for your 92 4.0. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/fuel-pressure-regulator-53030001.html Another remote possibility is that your new pressure gauge may be reading high. It's doubtful, but verify this using a rental set of gauges from Autozone or another parts store.