HOrnbrod

Si.

Pilot error perhaps? :yes:

Nothing's going to "backfire" using the ZJ box. Lots of guys wheel with this box. The ratio isn't that much faster; 14:1 (XJ) vs. 12.7:1 (ZJ).

^^ That's true. 93-98 ZJ boxes have a quicker ratio but are no beefier than the stock XJ/MJ box. Same piston diameter and housing...

^^ That's not it, it's the diagnostic connector.

^^ I remember something like that too. I believe it was on the old - now defunct - Mad Maxx Jeep site.

Empty - 105 Ω 1/2 = 33 Ω Full = 5 Ω Not linear for some reason..........

I'm not sure if the booster arm on the ZJ is the right length and the pedal mount is the same as the 95-96 XJ dual diaphragm setup. It may work w/o too much trouble, but :dunno: . The XJ unit is bolt-in; all you have to do is fab new brake lines from the distribution block to the master. I'm also thinking the 97 XJ and up setup should also work because the MJ firewall is the same. Anyone ever done this or know of it being done on an MJ?

Use a booster/master from a 95-96 XJ with the 1/4" spacer plate on your 91. Much easier, pure PnP, and works just as well.

We've been through this before: http://comancheclub.com/topic/49871-fuse-panel-help/?hl=flasher&do=findComment&comment=507541

4.10 (4.09 in the parts manual) is a regulation factory MJ D44 axle, but kind of rare. There were also 3.54 (most common) and 3.07 ratios. See if it still has the diff cover tag on it and look for the part number (5300xxxx) stamped either on the tag or the axle tube. Then you can ID if it's a factory 4.09 or a regear.

No, don't have it anymore. I had it wired in for about four years and it did great, then the engine started dying randomly. When I jumpered the Unichip out of the system, no more cotouts. So I sent it to Unichip in Hillsboro, OR to check it out. A tech mapped it for his BMW and drove it for two months with zero problems. He sent it back with the Jeep map and it still caused engine cutouts. I'd had it and sold it on Ebay to a guy in Brazil a couple of years ago for more than I paid for it who's still running it on a racing BMW with no problems. :dunno: It did well when installed on my rig. The Unichip program allows you to vary the MAP, TPS, CPS, and IAT outputs to the ECU for the best dyno numbers.

Looks like it just might work. If you get a chance, measure the ohms at float position empty, half, and full to see if the pot is close.

That would mean getting rid of my turbine wheels. Don't want to do that........... 32x9.5x15 tires would be even better.

I've been looking for 32 x 10.5 all-season tires too - no joy. The only thing I've found are mud and off-road stuff. Dick Cepek, Mickey Thompson, Super Swamper, etc................

Teraflex still sells the preload spacers although you may need to call them to get the correct ones based on your particular setup. When I swapped my D44 in I transferred the Ford Explorer disks I had on the old D35, but had to purchase new backing plates due to the axle flange difference between the D35 c-clip axle and the D44. The non-c-clip D35 has the same flange as the D44 does however.

NOS on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Jeep-Cherokee-Black-Fixed-Head-Manual-Remote-Mirror-1993-96-Right-Hand-/262373442377?fits=Make%3AJeep|Model%3ACherokee&hash=item3d16ad0349:g:uUIAAOSwAuNW4zFO&vxp=mtr

If you're referring to the sensor/switch on the left rear of the cylinder head, that's for the dash coolant temp gauge. It's a sensor if you have a gauge; a switch if you have idiot lights. On your 92 HO engine temperature is monitored by the ECU based on input from the coolant temp sensor on the thermostat housing, not by the sensor on the cylinder head. Tanner has a 90 Renix - entirely different from your 92. The Renix uses output from the temp sensor on the radiator.

Depending on the chip and how it's programmed, your compression ration ratio, and other factors there is no regulation or requirement for running high-test gas with it. I ran a Unichip for years and never ran high test nor did I need to. There was no preignition or pinging problem. The Unichip is on the intake heat shield in the pic below. It did work quite well until it developed an intermittent internal short. http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=387&hilit=unichip

Agree with possible bad ball joints. A good way to check them is to jack up one side at a time, slide a 2x4 from the side under the wheel, and have a helper lift it up and down while you're under there eyeballing the upper and lower ball joints. Any visible movement at all and the joints should be replaced.

.............for 97-06 Jeep Wrangler. Normally ~$180. On Amazon Warehouse deals for $47.65. Deal! http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Jeep-Accessories-82213636-Receiver/dp/B00BZSDN8M/ref=sr_1_10?m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&s=warehouse-deals&ie=UTF8&qid=1460410024&sr=1-10&refinements=p_89%3AJeep

Image Not Found

^^ This. I didn't listen either, and decided to regear the stock D35 from 3.55 to 4.10 myself when I lifted my rig and put 31" tires on it. The regear went okay except I could never get the new pinion crush sleeve to crush properly so I ended up reusing the old one. In the first 3K miles I snapped two axles, which I figured was caused by the stroker's additional torque when burning out at a stop light. :dunce: I replaced the stock axles with chromolys and didn't break anymore. But at around 5K miles the the gears started whining under the slightest throttle; a sure sign the the backlash setting was AFU and the gears were eating themselves. Most likely due to the reusing the original crush sleeve. More :dunce:. I'd learned my lesson the hard way. I finally found a used MJ D44 axle up in TN, had it regeared professionally to 4.10 with 10 Factory chromoly axles and limited slip, and voilà - no more busted axles and/or gear noise. Got about 30K miles on it now and counting. So no, don't spend any $$ on the D35.

Here's some pics of the Mopar 01-92 MJ sender: Image Not Found

:thumbsup: