HOrnbrod

Yep, they do. That's how they sell their new/rebuilt starters to fish even if they don't need them. :yes:

Pull the starter and bench test it before you burn the harness up. Sounds like the brushes are shorted. http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/jeep/4.0L/how-to-test-the-starter-motor-1

Perhaps "Ben of the Springs" would be more appropriate now. Has a nice ring to it, si? :thumbsup:

Are you in the Springs Ben?

I missed your JK bumper.......... :doh:

I've been thinking about using some JK fogs too. Are you going to mount them in the bumper like the JK lamps are?

Interesting - thanks.

What article? :dunno:

Deleted my post by mistake - sorry. Here's what's available - obviously the doors are not universal. I got a replacement hinge from these guys a long time ago..... https://www.custompickup.com/shop/index.php?l=product_list&c=2782

How do you like your AEM UEGO wideband?

Have you checked the rear harness ground? It's behind the left tail lamp. Pull it off and make sure the ground connection is clean and solid.

Less than one amp at ~12V............ I hope replacing the alt ended all your AW4 problems permanently.

Hey....try here: https://onedrive.live.com/?id=C40904CFDA278A46%21115&cid=C40904CFDA278A46

Why don't you people pick up a phone, use it in voice mode if you know how, and call the shop and ask? Call Joe at General Spring or Tom at Hell Creek and ask your questions directly instead of asking anonymous forum members? Both of these guys are really good to talk to. :thumbsup:

The parts manual shows the 91-96 NSS all the same, then the p/n changed for the 97-01 XJs. Probably the connector as you stated.

Gog burns used veggy oil in his Lada.

Jim; You're supposed to say "I use blah blah oil because it's blah blah blah and it's the best there is". I think we've had about 91 threads on this topic. :yes: :(

X2 10W-30, as the manual calls for. From the manufacturer of choice.

From their web page: Applications of Champion RV17YC: BUICK, All V8 Engine, 1971-1974 CHEVROLET, All In-Line 6 Cyl Eng, 1976-1979 CHEVROLET, All V8 Eng, 1971-1973 Looks like they recommend the RV12YC; Gap .044; for your new 86 2.8 V6, if that's what you are asking about. The RV17YC would be too hot of a plug I think.

Before you do anything make sure the axle vent line is clear. Mine was stopped up at the nylon fitting where it goes into the upper left frame causing a leak at the left rear seal from the pressure. Took the vent hose and fittings all apart, unclogged the junk, no more leak.

That's reassuring. From their website: "XJs and MJs (all engines): Rubber is better." Better than their poly mounts I guess they mean. Personally, I don't want any vibration. These mounts are good for mainly off road vehicles only.

^^ This. Vibratus maximus. I took them off my MJ two weeks later and replaced them with NOS Mopar originals. Never again..........

How's this compare to the actual product? VIN : 1JTHG64P0JT193899 Country : United States Manufacturer : Jeep Corporation Vehicle Type : Truck Engine : 2.46L 4 Cyl. TBI Powertrain : 4-speed automatic, column gear shift, 2 W/D Line (Body Type) : Jeep Comanche, 2-W/D Pickup, 6.0' bed, 113" wheel base Model and Gross Vehicle Weight : 4001#-5000# : Comanche Pioneer [1815/2268 Kg] * 6001#-7000# : J-20 Truck [2722/3176 Kg] Check Digit : 0 Year : 1988 Plant Location : Toledo, Ohio, USA Sequential Serial Number : 193899 Check Digit Test : VIN errone - Check digit devrait etre 9

I have Explorer rear disks on my truck. For comparison purposes, the rotor is 11" in diameter and 1/2" thick (vented). Shouldn't be vented... Unless you've bought fancy aftermarket instead of 'normal' stock style. Or do you mean drilled/slotted? Official numbers in the book at 11.25" and .470" thick, or something like that (nobody really agrees, I think it's because it's actually listed in metric and converted/rounded). A modern vented rotor is typically about 11-13" and 1.25-1.5" thick. There is exceptions, as there is some thin vented rotors on cars like the Lincoln Mark VIII, Mustang, etc (some are even 5x4.5 bolt pattern if you're interested). And there's some much bigger stuff used in front applications. There's probably smaller stuff used in front applications off of cars, but the question would be finding something with a hat large enough to accept redrilling/fit over the hub. The GM rotor that normally is used in this application is 12.8" and 1.28" thick. 1/3 of the thickness is mostly void space (no weight) as it is the vent area. Guys cut them in half at the vents, then turn the (previously vent are) face smooth. We dug up some rotors for a limo that are about .790" thick and 12.8" diameter, waiting for them to arrive to be weighed. I have my doubts that they're any lighter, as most of what has happened is the vent area is smaller, and they have a thicker hat to incorporate a parking brake drum. The K20 rotors most guys use are a front rotor, and they actually windowed the hat for whatever reason (airflow probably), so between that and the wider vent I doubt it weighs more. The small Isuzu rotor is only 10.3" diameter, or something like that, IIRC. Super small friction area, as the hat is the same size or larger than the comparable solid rotors. It actually would probably be a good choice if a guy was running 6 lug hubs. In short I doubt there is anything that exists that's really worth the hassle. The conclusion I am at right now is to not worry about it. I'm waiting for other ideas on hubs that don't cost a fortune, we're going to try weighing some and see what we can come up with. Vented aftermarket.

Huh?