HOrnbrod

Well, so much for the MJ distribution blocks being different. Thanks all.

Are ALL the ports on the ZJ valve .078"? All of them are .100" on the XJ prop valve. Will check tomorrow. ALSO, I can not find the p/n of the MJ brake distribution block in any of the parts manuals throughout the years. Was trying to see if there are any differences between the Renix and MJ years. Any idea? Maybe the p/n is different since the rear proportioning brake valves were different.

Unknown - good question. But being that the XJ prop valves w. rear drums are .100" and the ZJs with rear disks are .078", they must have made the MJ distro block front ports smaller to make up for loss in the rear MJ LSV over varied load conditions. Just my guess.

Cool, now I'm gonna point something out to you. I'm going to retain the kludgy LSV because I want to, I like it, and it's a good feature to have if you can retain it and still have good brakes. At this point I do, especially on the rear disks. LSV's have been used by many manufacturers on all kinds of vehicles and are still being used. And you are definitely an expert on kludges as you like Renix MJs, the ultimate kludge-mobile. :rotf: Good info on the small .050" MJ front brake ports though; I'll probably punch them out and see what happens. Might just bring the fronts up to par with the rears. However, it's not a high-pri at this point.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/37727-how-to-post-pictures/

It's most likely the ground wire and goes the the ground point behind the left tail lamp.

Looks like a hell of a short happened, the fusible link down the line didn't open in time, and everything fried until it finally blew. Fusible links suck........

Okay, that Bricklin was too easy. Another obscure US offering:

:no: Bad boy! No cheating this time: :yes: Hint: Made in Canada......

JE39, THIS will help. :thumbsup:

You could always eliminate the connectors and cut and splice it in....

No. Cathodic protection systems are used extensively on underground tanks and pipelines, ship hulls, etc. but never successfully on automobiles. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathodic_protection#Automobiles

You can't see it when it's assembled. Remove the LSV arm and bushing and you will see the flat on the splined portion of the shaft.

To check the hose from the radiator to the coolant bottle, just pop it off at the radiator filler neck nipple and blow in it. It should bubble up in the never pressurized overflow tank. Also while it's off run a piece of wire through the nipple to the filler neck tube to make sure that's clear. I don't think there's anything wrong with your 91 open system. If the pump was running backwards you would definitely know it - overheating maximus. I only have to add a pint or so a year to keep the level between the tank marks. I also use a 14# pressure cap as it tends to run a bit cooler than the stock 12# cap.

I've done the first two, more than once, but not that one. Amazing it even ran. Did you get #1 right? :yes: Sheite happens... And it's good to laugh about it.

Wires crossed?

Not a doozy; but maybe a dizzy?

Lift it with bigger meats! :yes: Good looking SUV Pete.

Good to hear Fred. Thanks for trying this.

You may get away using denatured alcohol but it leaves a residue and isn't the best for an A/C system flush. Acetone is a better choice but there are specialized solvents made exclusively for flushing A/C systems available in any of the chain auto parts stores that evap quickly and leave zero residue. And of course, it costs more too.

I don't know. It definitely increased my disks. Try it and see. It only takes a few minutes and you can always go back to the same lever/spline position you started with. Hmmmm. Never thought of that Pete. Brilliant!

I think not. With the MT rear springs the rear end doesn't drop nearly as much as it did before with the stock springs. But we'll see what happens on the next REALLY HEAVY load. :yes:

Comments in CAPS

Here's another vintage American sports car. Anyone recognize it?

I NOW HAVE GREAT REAR BRAKES! Today I broke out the FSM and re-read the load sensing valve (LSV) adjustment procedure - again. Referring to the diagram below, rear brake bias is optimal when the LSV shaft flat (shown by the red line; flat is actually on the splined portion of the shaft) points down at the 6.00 o'clock position while looking at the LSV from the front. The factory adjustment procedure used a wonky 85* adjustment fixture to do the procedure; naturally they are now unobtanium. But in reading the procedure I could see exactly what was happening and how it worked. I pulled the LSV lever partially off the LSV so I could see the shaft flat, and it was pointing at 3:00 o'clock! WTF? I then pulled the lever completely off, and rotated the shaft clockwise 360*. You could feel the pull in the shaft as the LSV internal rotary piston passed across the inlet and outlet fluid ports, then after it passed over the ports, it turned freely with no pull. This is how it regulates the rear brake bias depending on the vehicle load, and if the lever isn't in the correct orientation, the ports are blocked, thus there's no opening for the fluid to pass. Which of course causes weak or no rear braking. I then rotated the valve shaft so it faced at about the 8:00 o'clock position, which simulated a fully loaded MJ and maximum rear braking. Then while keeping the shaft from rotating, slid the lever back on the splined shaft, pressed it on, and tightened it all down. Went for a test drive and slammed on the brakes, and the rears locked right up. Yay! Then I fooled with different lever positions on the splined valve shaft, and the best braking ended up to be when the shaft flat was facing right at the 7:00 o'clock position. Now in a panic stop, the fronts lock up just before the rears - perfect. After about four full pedal stops, all four disks were hotter than the hinges of hell. Whereas before, just the front disks got real hot. I'm happy now - no ZJ proportioning valve and re-routing of the brake lines is now required. :) At least for now. Does this make sense to y'all? Unfortunately, the 91-92 LSV's are different than the older ones as there's no flat on the splined arm of the 90 and below LSV's. And the older LSV's use a completely different adjustment procedure and adjustment fixture, even wonkier than the HO's do.