HOrnbrod

No doubt. I'm just trying to guess what those LCA brackets are supposed to be. A dropped pivoting LCA mount? :hmm: :dunno:

That would be the perfect width for an MJ. The WMS-WMS would be equal to the existing D35 / D44 width w. 1.25" spacers.

Good Lord......

Where? :dunno:

^^ That's for the temp idiot light.

Si, TU108 will work with the temp gauge. Speedo cable? :dunno:

CB radio use is just about over and out these days, steadily declining since the early 90's. Only a few long-haul truckers left is about all that use it anymore. All there is to hear in most areas now is the sound of silence.

That's a slick hidden rear winch. I like it. :cheers:

The dash gauge temp sensor is on the left rear cylinder head. Also, do THIS when you get a chance.

^^ This. You don't need/want a dropped Pitman arm. See how the track bar and drag link axes are parallel? That's what you want.

Well made and cools my stroker engine well. Beautiful welds on all the seams. I did have to tweak the lower elbow fitting for the tranny coolant line to clear the frame but no biggie.

That sounds more realistic. I just checked my 91 FSM - 14 ft.-lbs. too. Ignore my first reply - bum info.

I didn't either. I junked the crappy strap setup a long time ago and installed a U-Bolt Yoke Conversion Kit when I had to change the D44 pinion seal the last time out. $$ well spent. :thumbsup:

From the Spicer manual: Technical Information * Fits Bearing Cap 1.938in For 1710/1760/1810 Series * 2.806in C/L to C/L * Crosses to 6.5-70-89-3 OEM Strap and 6.5-70-316 OEM Bolts 1/2in-20 x 1.00in Long * Torque to 115-135 lb.ft

I had a CJ5 (4.2 w. AMC-20) back in the late 70's for a few years during a Stateside tour. Loved it. Then sold it when I went back over and never had another one. Always wanted a CJ V8. I envy you shipmate. Have fun with it. :cheers:

I think I'd be looking for a decent used door from a parting-out 97+ XJ to pull the guts from.

Damn Bo, it's got to be hotter than the hinges of hell working outside out there...

Probably near or in the air intake filter housing.

I've had quite a few HO's and never had a problem with burping them. That goes for the 96's and up too w/o the head temp sender bung. Try letting it sit overnight with the radiator cap off. All the trapped air (if that's your problem) will work it's way out. Also, what are you using for the HO expansion tank? Are you still using the Renix closed system stuff?

Yeah, those are what I don't care for. If I were to go with an aftermarket cooler I'd have to fab some mounting brackets to the frame area.

Always the samo lamo.

How did you mount it? With those zip tie thingies?

Mounts on the lower radiator brace - the holes are already there. Here's one on Ebay, but you can find them cheaper: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-OEM-Replacement-Transmission-Oil-Cooler-JEEP-CHEROKEE-90-01-L6-4-0L-Engine-/251411420160?fits=Make%3AJeep%7CModel%3ACherokee&hash=item3a8949d400:g:4VUAAMXQVERSvFWl&vxp=mtr You can see the factory aux cooler mounted in this pic:

Hmmm. I must admit - this does make good sense Charlie. It does go below freezing a few times here in northern Bama, but nothing like up Nawth. I like the idea of keeping the tranny cooler by not heating up the fluid through the radiator. My truck originally had no tranny aux cooler, and I added the little stock XJ cooler like the one below several years ago. It seems to do the job, since I don't tow much anymore and have never had any problems with it getting overly hot. What I like most about bypassing the radiator is that it eliminates two of those potentially leaky quick connectors.

Renix I'm shocked..........