ratrapp

that's what i wanted to know.i'm going to order the larger one.i don't know why the truck had the smaller alt being to it had a/c but who knows.the truck has been in the family since it had 8k miles and was less than a year old so i doubt someone put the wrong alt. on it.thanks,guys

i've done it without completely removing the dash out of the truck,but you still have to remove every bolt and screw anyway to loosen the dash up so you might as well take the dash out.

i done a search but got conflicting info.my alt is on the way out and wanted to upgrade to the bigger factory 100 amp.if you have done this let me know if it worked.it's a 4.0 renix style.the truck has factory a/c but has the smaller alt. on it.i don't want to upgrade to the larger later model chrysler alternators,just use the larger factory style.

does anyone know if a 95 wrangler front axle will bolt directly into a mj?found a smoking deal on one for $50 with 4.11 gears.

is it an a/t?if so the shift interlock may be binding not allowing the key to come all the back.mine does this occasionally.

i had my rear sliding window done several years ago and it was $50.it's still holding up much better than if i had done it.no bubbles or streaks,you get what you pay for.

i put a set on my mj and my gf's zj.i think for what i paid for them they're worth it.

do a search for crown stering parts.that's where i got mine last year.i think it was $100 or so.

anymore progress on the seat track adapters?

problem solved.the tps was the original culprit.i replaced the 3 solenoids first and one of the new ones was defective.i put the old ones back in and all is fine.

you have either a broken motor mount or collapsed transmission mount.you possibly can have both as i did.it's not that uncommon on these trucks.

i replaced the tps and it registers correct voltage and idles good again but still no shift.i'm wondering if my new shift solenoids are any good or the used tcu i tried was any good.before it wouldn't come out of first unless i unplugged the tcu(which i think was from the bad tps.i unplugged the tcu so i could manually shift it.i replaced the solenoids and i plugged up the tcu and it wouldn't move unless i put it in 1-2 gear.it never did this until i relaced the solenoids.i wish i had checked tps voltage first but i didn't.i'm going to stick the old solenoids back in wednesday and try again.

i got my scanner from the shop and it only shows .37 volts at the tps and it only moves to .39.i think the less than 1 year old tps from mopar is going bad.they sais something about not warrantying it when i bought it because of it being considered a vintage part.i wish i could adapt a new ho tps to the renix wiring because i've already got a ho throttle body.

looking for an 88 tcu for an aw4.would also be interested in a wiring harness for the tcu as well if available.91 up cherokee stuff isn't the same.the closer the better to va.thanks

i replaced all 3 solenoids and they read the same as the old solenoids.it still doesn't shift unless i unplug the tcu and manually shift it.i'm now wondering if the used tcu i tried is good and i may try to find another used one.i think it only fits up to 90 as i i found another used one out of a 91 and it wouldn't plug up.

checked ohms today.shift solenoids 1 &2 are both 18 ohms and the converter clutch solenoid is 33 ohms,ouch.i haven't felt the converter lock up in years and that may be why.may also contribute to 15 mpg on the highway.anyway i ordered a complete set of solenoids new from tranmissionpartsusa for $158 shipped.i checked mopar and the 1 and 2 solenoids were $135 apiece and the converter lock solenoid was $240 so i went another route.i'll manually shift it until they come in.it worked fine today manually shifting it.thanks for the help so far.

i unplugged my tcu and i can manually shift it fine.i'm going to check the ohms on my solenoids today after work.at least i know my tranny itself is good which is a big relief.still seems funny when it's cold it'll shift fine until it warms up but i'm checking the solenoids today.

i tried a filter and it does it in every gear.it starts in overdrive first and works its way down to drive and then second.i let it sit a few hours and it starts shifting again when it cools down.

i think my 186k mile aw4 is dying.in the morning it shifts perfect.when it warms up it progressivley takes longer and longer to shift each gear until it quits shifting.it doesn't slip and always goes in gear,just doesn't want to shift.i tried a fluid to change but it didn't help(didn't figure it would but i tried anyway).after you let it cool off it 'll shift again for while.you can't manuallly shift it when it does this anf both tcu fuses are good and i even swapped the tcu out for another but it does the same thing.i don't want to try a used tranny as most in our local yards have as many miles as mine.any suggestions as where to get a new one?i checked at team cherokee and they have ones for the 91 up xj for 1425 plus shipping.

if all you were going to get was 5-10 extra hp i don't know if it's really worth it.i don't think i got that much if any.

you may have different results than me.your short block may not be as worn as mine.i even used the ho throttle body with the pricey hesco tps adapter.at first i thought it ran a little better,but that was just hope.after 2 days i realized it really didn't run any better.i did need to pull the head to replace the lifters and and fix the oil leaking headgasket.i'm not trying to discourage you from doing this,you may have better results than i did.

i actually did this.i took it one step further and used a 99 up intake manifold as well.besides replacing the lifters when the head was off and fixing the oil leaking head gasket it made no difference whatsoever to my truck.i had the head(95 ho head)freshened up at the machine shop so it wasn't like i was using a worn out head.it could be because my renix engine is pretty worn out why i didn't see any improvement as well.you will need to use the ho exhaust manifold and downpipe as well. i used the renix exhaust manifold and in 2 weeks it blew the gasket because of misalignment in the ports.i hope this helps some.

they are called pintle caps.used to you could buy replacement ones(maybe you still can)if they became hard and brittle and cracked or crumbled when removed.they do need to be on there.

jusr replace the m/c.we just put a new clutch,flywheel,master and slave cylinder in my friends 88 toyota p/u.everything came from advance.after 2 months he would have to pump the pedal every morning to get it in gear and then it was fine the rest of the day.we replaced the m/c again and it's fine now.thankfully thats what they make warrantys for.

i bought the brown dog mounts(just the mounts,not brackets)because i've broke 2 sets of stock mounts in 12 years during every day driving.i don't think i'll ever break these mounts but i do wish i had bought the slightly softer of the 2 mounts for everyday because they are a little harsh but are livable.