wolfpackjeeper

Yeah, clear coat will do that on a high humidity day w/o adding retarder. 'Course, that's hard to do with a rattle can. :eek: yea, def need the retardant Dad did a test about 2 years ago: He took some of the 5 or 6 colors of house paint that we had left and put them in a sprayer and sprayed 5 sections of a 6gal metal bucket, did it in neat even sections. Before he sprayed them he prepped and primered the bucket. Mind you that he did this with eggshell and satin paints. Then he took the good clear that we had just done his car with and he sprayed the bucket. Let it dry then set it out in the backyard where it would get plenty of sun. That was 2 years ago, and it is still out there on top of the wood pile. The paint still looks brand new. He painted another bucket with just the paint. It eventually faded. I think it took a month or so to start, but it went very rapidly after that. done right the clear makes a world of difference, but humidity will kill you. If it does not crinkle, then it will fog up if done wrong

use 80-90 lucas. the thickness of a heavier oil or the oil additive will not help any.

1 coat, spray it wet. That is what worked for dads car

I don't run it in my new stroker, but for an older 4.0 it is great

use the lighter weight rear end oil they make. Not the oil stabilizer. I think they make an 80-90. the 85-140 is way to heavy, a friend lost about 5mpg till he took it out and filled it with the correct weight. Other than that it is good stuff.

the average in my area was $14 a cylinder for a bore and hone. I had the machine shop bore, hone, deck, clean, magnaflux the block, and install new cam bearings. I want to say my total price was around $300 including the bearings. Then he cut me a deal on pistons since I did all the work there and was having trouble finding a matched set, $11.50 a piece. they were weight matched aluminum pistons, and the brand name was Badger. I bought a reman crank from advance, did my own port and polish, my bos did a 3angle for me at his race shop for free, he even reset all the spring heights. Conrods came from ebay and were shot peened and hardened then heat soaked. Used the stock cam out of my 1992 block. I also picked up a 2000 intake and I started with FMS 24lb injectors, but ended up switching to a set of LT1 injectors as the motor ran much better on those. let me know if you need anything else. My total build cost was just under $1500 and I replaced almost everything. The only thing I kept was the rocker arms.

I would do the sm465 upgrade. It is bulletproof, and you can mate it to anything. Novak has lots of adapters

one of my rear wheel cylinders is shot. I am either going to be putting a nice set of new drums, shoes, springs, and cylinders on it; or if I can get my hands on some I will be going with some ZJ rear discs. Probably will go ahead and do new MC and Power booster too, switching to the newer style there. Either way I want to ditch the weird factory system. I can just swap in the newer prop valve and run new lines correct? Or is there something else I need to look out for when doing this? I eyeballed the MC and power booster pretty well, and glanced under the truck to follow everything, wanted to make sure I had not missed anything.

looks like some sort of weird flightline truck

153624 is it not it should be stamped into the manifold. go around the cap and plug them in in that order.

I just keep the corpse of the last guy who tried to steal from me in the bed with a sign on him. Works great as a deterrent, and I really don't use the bed that much anyway...

for my stroker I coated both side with a thin coat, and let it dry. Then I installed it. It does not leak. I figure it will let it mold to the irregularities a little better, without all the clean up if I pop the pump. 12k miles so far. I usually tell people to RTV it to the block if they are installing it while the engine is in the truck. That way you do not have to worry about the gasket getting out of place during install.

so what the hell is the sentinal package?

most of the screws used for the interior pieces, headlight bezels, turn signals, grill panel, ect, can all be found at advance auto. They are on the headlight aisle and are called trim retaining screws I think

probably, but by the time find time to go to the yard, actually use the gas and drive there, pay 2 bucks to go in, walk around for an hour, possibly find on worth pulling, pay for it, then drive home, then clean it up, repaint it, and install it, I might as well have just bought the new one. I will eventually, but right now I don't have to open my tailgate much so It is one of my lower priorities.

thats what I have heard, but it is still 30 bucks at advance

just to clarify, you did undo the latch right?

loosen up the door bolts on the hinge , just enough to be able to move it around, then tighten them back up a little so there is some friction on the adjustment plates. Now shut the door, push on the top and side edges, then very carefully, so as not to move the spacing at all, open the door and retighten the bolts. Shut it and see if it is better. I take the doors off my cherokee in the summer, and I usually have to do this a few times in order to get them lined back up. It may help to have someone inside the truck to help you know when it is lined up, and to open the door again.

how much are those?

and actually mine did not slide well at all when I first got the truck. I have the 4 piece like you. It just has a tendancy to jam at an angle in the track. Also check and see if there is something in the track. My day used to leave a pencil or two in the tracks to keep somone from sliding it open from the outside.

mannnn, I really wanted a power slider for mine. does anyone sell the slider and new gasket still. I need one. Leaks no matter what I do.

i don't think you could put enough effective pressure to all wheels. I usually just have some one help, only takes about 15min the normal way. the last time I vacuum bled mine, that worked well. Hooked up a vacuum pump my dad had bought to do his AC to a jar with two tubes in it(keeps the fluid from going into the machine lines) and did each wheel that way. Worked pretty well.

I have 2 sets of ford 8.8 brakes, one from a lincoln the other from an explorer, neither one bolts up. ANd it would be too much of a pain to mod it to work. I have heard this rumor before, I just don't know what years to be looking for. If you have a small bearing housing it will bolt right up, I have a large bearing and 3/8" studs.

did on better. Went searching through the yunkyard till I found 5 on 4.5 shafts. they had to come out of two different rancheros. My 9" has either 29.5 or 30" shafts when I pulled the 5 on 5.5 shafts out. Ranchers have one side that is the same length and one side that is longer. So I found two shafts that work and rolled out. However, before it goes under I will probably break down and buy some moser shafts anyway. I think they were around 160 last I looked. Beefy and dead sexy.

I am not interested in the 8.8, I prefer the nine, it will give me the option on my street MJ of having two different gear ratios, one for the track, one for the street. plus I love the aftermarket support for it. And I already have one, with the right trac width for a jeep.