wolfpackjeeper

well my sealed beams worked just fine before, I figured the new lights would work better. It was the reflector design that was crappy. my buddy had some, same company even, and his worked great, so I guess it is a crap shoot

I have those in my cherokee, or the equivalent. I did not like the light pattern, even with silverstars in them, so I put the seal beams back in.

Do not know if it is possible on this board, might be a vB thing. But when you mouse over the thread, it will display a small box that briefly shows the first post. I like it, kinda handy. Did not know if it was available on this software.

I used a dakota line for the rear, and 95 chevy k3500 lines on the front.

yes actually. I will be going to Maxwell AFB tomorrow and will be there for about 6 weeks. I may try to just pick them up from you sometime. They have a good hobby shop there, so I could throw them on pretty quickly.

yea, he actually took really well to it. And seemed to enjoy snuggling with my wife cuddled up in a towel afterword. We blowdried him before that. And we are using the smallest cat dose of Advantage on him with really good success.

not much done, I switched to the newer door seals, got them off an 01 in the yard for $5. have most of my wj brake parts cleaned up, just need to paint them. Had to put a new starter on a week ago. THe PO had apparently changed the solenoid, but instead of putting it back on with the 3 required bolts, they put it back on with 1 wood screw... hopefully the 2500 parts will come in soon...

yea, he came with flees, so he has been getting a pretty thorough bath once a month. He has a couple wooden blocks and a stone to work his teeth on. I think we might take him out to petsmart today. I usually do not like their vets office (at least the one we had in Raleigh) but I was pretty impressed by the one here. I have had a couple different rabbits growing up, to include fluffy the attack rabbit. He was a Big lop that lived on the back porch. Had to start feeding the cats elsewhere cause he would not let them eat. It was his porch. Little guy would even jump up and sit on the railing.

looks like a pretty good dash solution for the v8 or diesel swap though. Dakota Digital usually has a calibration setup so you can match to the sensors you are using. I think this is the gauge I was told to use by them when I emailed about the problems I was sorting through when deciding on a V8 or a stroker

yea, he is a bit stubborn. you can corner him and pet him, occasionally he will come to you. He is pretty playful though. I need to call a few more vets, I actually had to go out to petsmart to get flea medicine, the other two vets I tried closer to base did not even acknowledge that you could take rabbits to a vet.

I have a holland lop. love it, need to have him fixed though. He keeps humping the dog. He is house trained, and I finally got him to stop chewing on stuff. Now we are working on making him friendly and cuddly. Figure if we keep holding him and petting him he will get used to it. if you have any suggestions on getting them more tame let me know. We are already planning on having him fixed, once I can fid a vet that will admit that you can in fact have a rabbit fixed.

Urban myth. Yes, it flows through the radiator faster, theoretically droping the temperature of the coolant less. But since it is dropping the temperature of more coolant per any amount of time, it is actually transferring more heat to the air, making the system more efficient. Also, the coolant also flows through the engine faster, which again, won't increase the temperature as much, while transferring more heat per unit time. the only reason to limit water pump capacity is to limit the amount of HP used by it, which will lower your mileage. If I run hotter without a thermostat, then why did every car i have ever owned with a temperature gauge, in which I have temporarily ran without a thermostat for various reasons ran cooler then with. To the point of hardly having any warm air from the heater, and me being able to hold coolant hoses or radiator indefinitely without burning myself. 79 Ford F100: 195 thermostat between 190 and 205. Without thermostat between 150 and 160. 91 Geo Prizm: 195 thermostat up to 195. up to 210 in hot weather stop and go with A/C blowing. Without thermostat ~120. 94 Suburban: 195 thermostat between 185 and 205. Without thermostat between 160 and 165 87 Comanche: 195 thermostat between 190 and 210. Without thermostat between 150 and 165. Also had an 84 Olds 98, an 82 LeBaron and an 81 Caprice. Never ran the Olds without a thermostat and the other two had idiot lights. My data does not support the flawed theory. had the same situations where I have had to run a car without a thermo to get home: Stroker - ran around 225-230 with no thermo, pinned on 195 with thermo LS1- ran about 210 without thermo, 180 with thermo. (expensive and a pain to replace btw) my data does support it. Not calling you a liar, just saying we seem to have an impasse, could be the different locations, driving styles ect. I do know that when I worked parts, I saw more overheating problems fixed by adding a thermostat than by removing one. The urban myth is supported by 3 ASE rated parts pros, one of whom has about every rating you can get. The other factor is an increasingly common mod I am seeing. People are adding a washer type disc to the upper rad hose in order to reduce the flow rate further. kinda a silly thing to argue about since we both seem to agree that a thermostat is a necessary part of your cooling system anyway.

actually, you will run hotter with no thermostat. the coolant flows too fast and does not stay in the radiator long enough to lose any heat. i read it as a thermo that failed with catastrophic results. pull the head and replace the gasket. If the head is cracked, you could replace it with an HO head and manifolds, but there is a bit of work there as well. You would either need to convert the wiring over and use the new TB, or by an adapter to use the renix TB. Replace the thermo, and change the oil and coolant.

pensocola is nice, I am there now. If they let you bring a car it will be nice to see another comanche around. However, being enlisted and in school I would not bet on it yet. I see a lot of enlisted guys walking everywhere or taking cabs... I start API in Jan, then on to Primary Flight, Intermediate, and Advanced, Ill be here a bit before I get my wings

When I lived in NC we used to go camping on the beach a lot. All my stucks were self imposed on purpose in order to unload the truck easier. Slam on the brakes to dig the fronts in, then kick the gas so the rear settles in, lowers the rig about 6 inches so it is easier to get in and out, load and unload. Time for recovery, let 10psi out of the tires, stick it in 4-low and let the stroker idle out of the hole. I have 33x10.5" BFG all terrains. I actually really like running on the sand. If anybody knows of a place in the Florida Panhandle/Florabama area let me know.

because the diesel didn't work, but they had a 360. They thought, hey, a 360 would fit perfectly with its heritage, since you know, they have no concept of history

you would need to swap the output shaft housing to a 4wd model. Wouldn't It be the ax5 anyway? I would just find an NV3550 or an ax15 external slave.

sweet. Like I said I was not trying to piss you off or call you out. It is just better to list up who you are and seem legit. I watched some muscle car guys get burned on a "free dyno tune" once, turned out the guy had no idea what he was doing and screwed up the map horribly. I will be calling you guys for some cherokee stuff sometime after christmas hopefully.

location? name of company? liability? insured? I would assume JCR from the link in your sig. But with one post and a join date of yesterday... no offense intended, but while free stuff is cool and most people would kill their brother for a free t-shirt, I would never drop my truck off somewhere for the promise of some free stuff. It is asking for it to be mistreated or stolen. Once again, no offense intended, just throwing that out there. This is a lesson that was learned by a couple of friends in the F-body muscle car scene.

1. Do not use a line lock as an E-brake. If you lose your hydraulics you want a brake setup that will work without fluid. Line locks are not designed to be used as anything other than a holding system for burnouts. Use a cable system or a t-case brake, you want something that can be used to stop the vehicle as well as something that can hold it on a hill. I have seen more than one line lock stop holding when used as a parking brake. I would get a set of chocks before I used a line lock. 2)early f-100's have 9" that is the correct width as well. And some from larger merc's and lincoln's are about the right width with disc brakes, just more cutting and setup required.

I would wheel the 35 till you break it, or till a good deal falls in your lap. While it is not an increadibly strong axle, it is not a POS either if you treat it right. I have been running one on 33's for 6 years with no problems, and the last two years have had a stroker in there as well. If you treat it liek a D60 your will break it, if you acknowledge that it is a weak link and drive accordingly it will be fine. side note: I have a Ford 9" ready to go in when it breaks

A 3" exhaust on a 2.5 4banger comanche? That's a huge waste and will do wayy more harm than good. 2 1/2 is even too much on a 2.5L ditto, 2 1/4 will be great if you get smooth bends on a 4.0, 2 on a 2.5 would be fine. At 3" you will get a lot of flow seperation in the tube and it will slow down the gas velocity.

My stroker build cost me 1600 total. That was all the parts, the machine work, extra pieces that did not need to be replaced, beer, and a couple of lunches for buddies who helped. I went with lower priced reccomends from the machine shop on my pistons, and they worked great, reused my cam, and my boss redid the head for free at his race shop(he needed to hone up his skills before race season. you can do it pretty fast if you can get the parts in the same place, the build is easy and the engine swap is strait forward.

I popped the motor in my 1991 cherokee, same thing, #6 rod punched 3 holes in the pan and a softball sized hole in the block. I reused my head, but I also got a new block and made a stroker out of it. Machined the head and reworked it, although a prelim inspection showed it being pretty good, most of what we did was a port and polish and a valve job, did not need to deck it much at all, no warpage. He did not necessarily overheat it. When I lost my rod I had 190ish temp wise showing on the gauge. I say build a stroker, you can do it for the same cost as a rebuilt motor. Now is a perfect excuse to do so.

air tube is crap, it will just pull hot air from the bay. The cat may or may not help, you would probably see the same benefit from a new one as from none at all. And depending on if you have tbi or mpi you could switch to a 4.0 throttle body for a bit of a boost. There used to be a "purple cam" made for the 2.5 but I do not remember by who. It is most likely the 8500 feet that hurts you the most, so the one thing that would really noticeably change it would be a turbo setup. Cram more air in there. you could also switch to the new MPI if you have tbi, just snag the harness/manifold/computer/ and wiring from a 94 or 95 2.5. that would let you go with the 4.0 throttle body as well. Whats gears/tranny do you have.