wolfpackjeeper

what rotors are you running. I have been looking for a good setup for a while, but I want to stay with 5 on 4.5 lug pattern.

last time I lulled one at the yard I pulled the shafs, popped the cover and caps, pulled the spiders, then took the pinion nut off and knocked the pinion back in. Pushed the carrier and ring right out the front. May not have been the best way, I was worried about the shock to the gears, but it worked just fine.

New update: got my 20% tint on the front, looks good, not professional, but good. We will have to see how it cures over the next couple of days, but I think it is going to be pretty solid. I also got my new interior lights installed, which are great, as well as getting my new gauge cluster in. The gauge cluster was a really really easy swap, and I scored a dash clock while I was at it, however I forgot to grab the cigarette lighter... I also got my new pioneer radio in. Does any music format, as well as controlling my wifes ipod, having a usb and an aux in. It also direct plas satellite radio(I will probably get sirius. It is coming along pretty well.

they make it in black too, which is the only color I ever saw till I was like 20, so I never understood the gorilla snot reference. Side note: This came from my dad who has a 1967 Jaguar e-type. The valvecovers on those care are even more notorious for leaking than a 4.0, said that it was the only stuff he ever could get to not seep oil, said a Jaguar tech told him about it once. I tried it on my cherokee before the rebuild using a cork gasket. low and behold, the valvecover stayed dry till I tore it apart again a few years later to build the stroker.

ocala is in north FL? whaere the hell is P-cola then :D

More power to you, It took me 5 cans to get a good coat on a trailer I used to haul a motorcycle around. When painting a vehicle I would just prefer to do it with a gun. The spray never lasts as long as I want it to, and I have better quality control with the gun. don't have to worry as much about the possibility of variations in the paint that comes in a rattle can. What kind of paint did you use. I sprayed the wheels I was talking about with Duplicolor's automotive enamel in the same color as my car. It coated increadibly well, but the cans did not last as long as I hoped.

you will use a ridiculous amount of rattle cans. I am talking on the order of 20 cans easily. They do not go as far as you think they will, especially if you are going for a decent paint job. For example: I painted 4 17" wheels for my camaro. I painted the inside so it was well covered. Then I put 2-3 coats on the outside to get a nice gloss. I also put 2 coats of clear on the outside. These were 17x8ish wheels. It took me 6 cans of black and 3 of clear. Buy about a gallon of paint if you go that route. You will then further reduce it in order to spray it. When I painted my dads car we used less tan a gallon, I would not think that a MJ would use more. I would go ahead and bedline the bed while you are at it. I noticed that O'Reilly's sells the gun to spray it with, it just uses a tube stuck into the paint bucket and draws it up. It will be easier to do that while you are already prepping and cleaning.

if you get the kit it sits a little nicer, but that is what I meant. You don't need to cut anything

I just installed a new radio, and I am trying to figure out what you are talking about... The kit you can get from walmart, Advance, best buy will sell it to you - $10-15 It comes with 4 or 5 plastic frames, you only need one and the instructions will tell you which one. You snap off all the little plastic tabs that you do not need, then just slide it over the back of the radio. When you have the radio seated properly, there are meal taps or fingers that are flush with the top, bottom, and sides that you bend up with a flathead to hold it in place. It mounts in the stock location with the same two screw holes as the factory radio. There is also a plug for $8 or so that you can wire to the back of the radio to make it a plug in deal with the car harness, or if you have already cut the harness use this guide: http://snowboard247.blogspot.com/2005/0 ... -info.html It is really easy, I installed a new pioneer unit in about an hour in the driveway, that included two new speakers as well. edit: I did not dremel or drill anything, and with all the radios I have used, if you leave the trim ring off the front you will not need to cut the dash panel either. Looks really good, I will try to get a picture if you want it.

I believe that the strip test is on gojeep's website. And it is speed dependant. At speeds over 10mph and below 65mph(iirc) there is a low pressure area that forms over the front of the hood, so if you locate the vents there it will have the effect of dragging the air out. Farther back is good for higher speeds and possibly below 5mph. It has been a while since I looked but his site is why I decided on placing mine towards the front. That and looks. The vents I got looked better towards the front

what can you do for these parts? I don't really care where I get them from, I would just like to try to find a better deal than what I have been seeing. Window wipes - both doors channel guides - both doors possibly the weatherstripping

Ill be honest, I use several different forums, and the best ones are the ones that do not show a post count and do not charge much for membership. One of the ones I am on does not even note the difference between a paid member and a subscriber. Keeps people from judging intellect based on post count. Here I have like 30odd posts, on Naxja I have over 800. By most peoples forum distinctions, here I know nothing, and there I am a pro. I prefer this forum, but the volume is a lot higher there.

I used the front vents from a 3rd gen firebird. I had to cut out the entire area becaue the semi flush mount. That being said, I taped the area off so as not to ruin the paint, then I used an electric jigsaw. Worked fine. I put mine in the front right behind the radiator, there is a low pressure area there while driving, so it helps to pull the hot air out.

Ill try to get in touch with him. I think he was able to get a bellhousing that worked, but I do not remember if it was custom or not. Ither than that you just need the tcu and I think to splice into the wires from the TPS and possibly the crank sensor.

there are two common kits. One has a large clamp looking job that has some allen heads to clamp it. It sucks, it will only remove not install Once comes with a metal ring, two metal half moons with grooves, and a half dozen diff sized threaded rods. This one works great. Basically you put the half moons around the center protrusion on the pulley, slide the round disc with the threaded hole in the groove that is in between them, out the metal ring on top to hold it together, and insert the threaded rod with the cone tip and start twisting. To install the new one, you figure out which threaded rod fits your pump and screw it in, screw the bigger rod onto it, slide the pulley down, put the thrust washer on, then the disc with the threaded hole. Tighten it down and call it a day. thats the best I can do with no pictures handy, if you don't have the second kit, go get it. The first is a waste of time.

you can put an aw4 in, I have several friends who did it...

if you half to go the mini rebuild i would recoment a hone job also thats what the bottle brush is for... really not that hard to do yourself. half of what? jk

I prefer it as a penetrating oil over most anything, better than PB Blaster even. You can get it in a spray foam type called Deep Creep. Use it, let it soak for a few hours then come back with the hammer. I use the day before I work on the Jeep and let it soak overnight. If none of this works, best bet, would be to go ahead and grab a new set of main and rod bearings and some rings, as well as a bottle brush. Do a mini rebuild.

seafoam will work well too

I could not find them, their categories are kinda strange

When I bought the truck it had a 4 piece rear slider. it did not open or close very well at all. I swept some dirt and dust out of the channel and it slides a little better, after 2 weeks of sliding it several times a day it slides a lot better but still not perfect. Is there any type of lubricant, maybe graphite that people use it in to make it slide smoother? It just tends to bind at times. Also, the rubber along the back is peeling away from the outside of the cab on the corners and along the top, it does not leak into the cab at all but it mildly annoys me to see it. Should I just run a bead of silicon around it and stick it back down, or would I be better off looking into a new rear window? I would love a power 4 piece slider, but I have not been able to find a place that sells them non commercially.

just go to advance, ask for a lugnut to get the thread size and pitch (or take one of yours), then ask them to look through the boxes till they find the same type that is solid instead of capped. There will also probably be sets of them out on the sales floor. I know they sell them, I just don't have the PN off hand.

the sad thing is, I can get the $200 kit for a 4 door cherokee and get almost all the parts I need with it being cheaper than buying the comanche stuff individually. The really outrageous one is the piece that runs up the front of the main window. they want $99 a piece for it. I was tempted to go to the dealer to see if they could get them and for how much. I am also gonna check at some local body shops.

all the ones at the JY are in at least as bad of shape as mine. Ill search some JC whitney now I guess, hadent thought of them.

I am in the process of restoring all of the parts of the MJ i just bought before I worry about modding it too much. Where can I get the window weather stripping, bottom and side channel pieces? I know team cherokee sells them but the prices are ridiculous. mine are trash and let water in around the window in a hard rain. I want to redo the door weatherstripping as well. I am also thinking about removing the chrome trim around the dash and putting a rubber seal there like on the 97+ cherokees as well but I am not sure if it will work. mainly what I need now are the rubber, felt lined pieces that go around the window.