wolfpackjeeper

when I did mine last time, we jacked the frame up as high as we could get it, then pulled the shocks, and popped the tierods out of the knuckles with a hammer, pull the tires, and undo the brake lines from the fender. Then it was drooped enough to pull the pan out the back. That was a few years ago, the last couple of times I have had a reason to pull the pan it was because we were swapping the motor... edit: I mean take the bolt out of the fender, not undo the rubber brake line from the hard line

I love it, use it on all my vehicles, 2 or 3 ways to do it. 1. pour half through the throttle body and half in the tank, let it sit for 10 min and then start it up and drive around 2. you can suck it into the motor while running by pouring it into the brake booster hose, and through the vacuum lines. 3. If you buy deep creep it is sea foam in an aerosol form. It will foam up a bit and is good in the above applications with the motor running, as well as spray it into the vent lines and valve cover to clean out the vent towers.

my stroker prefers NGK's with a 6 heat range. I like champions for a stock motor

I take a camera, otherwise what happens when you find stuff like this: it is a richard petty edition minivan, it was authentic too.

newer 2wd xj's used the same bearing as the 4wd with a stub shaft in them. cool, I had not had the chance to check into that yet today. Another option I have would be to go with the newer hubs that do not require the spacer, and switch to my 9" which has 5on5 lugs. Then I could save a little money and get the JK moabs which appear to run cheaper. However it would mean I need to get moving on setting up discs for the 9" and go find the right pinion bearing and reset the 3rd on it.

hmm, I had not thought of that, however, the wj that donated this kit to us was a 2wd, might be able to play with the hubs a bit press out one center and install another. what about newer 2wd XJ's they used unit bearings too right?

no, they have that odd metal tab like the durango ones, I just nipped it off. Heck, I got the extra length I needed for a while by unhooking that oiece and straightening out the hard line

i went with 1990 gmc 2500 fromt hoses on my xj, they were pretty long

yea, I think I am going to have to break down and buy/make a beefy setup that it does not really need, if so oh well.

you can pretty much take your pick on which hub to use. My friend just did this on his 1997 XJ. Used new 1991 hubs, which have the 5 on 4.5 pattern and he redrilled WJ rotors. I have heard of using TJ hubs as well. It is pretty easy to keep 5 on 4.5 if you want to, it can lead to hassles with the rotors though if you are not careful. I can get all of that done, it does not worry me. I am waiting on an email from him with pictures of what he did. It is the steering linkage and such that I am unsure of.

okey doke

Ok, I have started looking for a set of Moabs for project: Street Comanche. I think they will look great on a lightly lowered comanche. On top of that I was cleaning out my outbuilding and found a box or two of parts that I thought were sitting in my trail rig 700mi away. It turns out that I also have a wj brake setup handy, it has the spindals, brackets and calipers all there. Now for the questions: If I swap everything over, does anybody happen to know if the stock drag link and tie rod will still work, I will need a set of unit bearings since the 2wd manche I have looks like it uses normal wheel bearings. I would just get a set of 1991 or so hubs and run with those, I will also need a set of spacers made to go between the bearings and the spindal. I think the rotors I want are from a 2004 ford explorer sportrac. I will get new lower balljoints and WJ uppers, wj Pads. Does anybody else happen to know what I will need? I don't need to run high steering since it will be a street rod, which changes it up from the normal design.

Ok, I have started looking for a set of Moabs for project: Street Comanche. I think they will look great on a lightly lowered comanche. On top of that I was cleaning out my outbuilding and found a box or two of parts that I thought were sitting in my trail rig 700mi away. It turns out that I also have a wj brake setup handy, it has the spindals, brackets and calipers all there. Now for the questions: If I swap everything over, does anybody happen to know if the stock drag link and tie rod will still work, I will need a set of unit bearings since the 2wd manche I have looks like it uses normal wheel bearings. I would just get a set of 1991 or so hubs and run with those, I will also need a set of spacers made to go between the bearings and the spindal. I think the rotors I want are from a 2004 ford explorer sportrac. I will get new lower balljoints and WJ uppers, wj Pads. Does anybody else happen to know what I will need? I don't need to run high steering since it will be a street rod, which changes it up from the normal design. thanks for the input, and when thsi gets done it will become a writeup, so I thought it could stay here. Picks of the current setup

I would not pay 3500 for it. don't let your eyes get too big. I doubt I would pay more than 1600 or 1700 tops, and that is only if it looks better than it does in the picture.

my oath was a bit different, close enough though, same principle

I enjoy Shock top, other than that I tend to avoid bud brands. Blue moon is generally my beer of choice, and Most of the Magic Hat beers

2lt Brandon, USAF, currently in Pensacola for Strike Nav training(guy in the back of an f15E). Looking to graduate and be flying operationally in about 2 years.

meto

3550 is a 5spd I believe

sm425 or sm 465 are outstanding 4spds if you can find them, ax15 would do fine, nv 3550,3555, or the nv4500 are all options on mannys novak makes adapters for the turbo350 and the 700r4 if you wanted to go there too. actually novak makes adapters for all of them.

it is a great book. Flyboys is another of his narrative history stories that is very good. especially since the statue portrays the second raising of the flag on Iwo. The first flag that was raised was brought down and a bigger one raised.

i love the pro comp lift on my cherokee

fwiw, my stroker cost me 1500, running and installed. The 4.0 is stupid easy to build. If you can take it apart and you can read a haynes manual you can rebuild one. If you get a used crank with good wear patterns it could be done even easier.

advance sells them too. pretty cheap.

I hate doing freeze plugs, in fact when I built my stroker I paid them to do them. I would rather that I not have to deal with them while the block is still in the truck. Rust in the block is pretty common. Especially on an iron block, copper radiator, aluminum water pump and outlet setup. You get a lot of electrolysis between metals immersed in water. Flush the block out, prestone makes a kit that hooks up to the hose, then refill it and add some water wetter. It is a pink liquid that lowers the surface cohesion of water letting it make more contact with metals and absorb heat. It also has a lot of anti corrosion properties.