Akula69

Congrats!

That's exactly what the 'stat was doing in my daughter's XJ. When I dropped it in the coffee cup (of heated water) it opened about 1/8 inch and stopped. Of course, I didn't figure this out till it blew out the side of the radiator :headpop:

The wire colors match the description for the connection to the emissions maintenance timer: 20OR/WT 18BK 20GY He is right, I looked at mine and figured it out. 2 out of 4 or 50%. I failed :oops:

I had to change one in my daughter's XJ...used a small screwdriver to gently push one of the contacts back till the bulb popped free.

Courtesy light plug has a pink hot lead, a black and a black w/ white tracer- not a red w/ white tracer. In the first picture you can see his courtesy light (yellow plug with rust colored bracket) in the background (even though it appears to be spliced into another set of wires).

Well, I suppose it had to happen sooner or later. I purchased a tilt steering column off Ebay for a reasonable price from a guy called "Jeepclub206". The column was described as being in good shape, and from the pictures it appeared so. I mean, for 40 bucks I couldn't go wrong...right? Anyway, I get the critter installed and find that the truck starts when the key is turned backwards towards the ACC position. When I removed the key, I could hear the fuel pump running, and on a whim turned the cylinder without the key in it and the truck started!!! (I have since unplugged the ignition harness to avoid running the battery down). I disassembled the column down to the cylinder, and installed a spare that is known to be good. I also checked the ignition module (further down the column) but it was installed correctly. In the disassembly it became apparent (by rough tool marks and damage) that someone has already been in the column, and reset the gears incorrectly. I can see the gears to the ignition rod, and where then engage the cylinder, but cannot reset them as I have no information on rebuilding this column. I also cannot find the special tool to remove the pivot pins,(Jeep tool number J21854-01, which supposedly keeps the tilt pins from flying out and embedding themselves in your chin). Does anyone have data (or ideally an FSM) on rebuilding these columns? I do have the general FSM from Jeep, and it does go through disassembly and re-assembly but not how to set the gears. Also, does anyone have knowledge of the jeep tool, or a possible work-around? Thanks in advance

OK - here goes: 1) Based upon where its coming off the harness, I believe (NOT sure) that it is your horn relay. 2) The brake switch for cruise control. Releases cruise when brake is tapped. 3) The cruise control dump valve switch. 4) I can't swear by it, but that looks like part of the windshield wiper harness, right about where the wiper delay module plugs in. HTH Jake

If you are referring to the plug resting on the red wires in the picture above, the electrical troubleshooting book says its the A/C Diode Module, appears of the 4L engine, and should be taped to the wiring harness by the left hood hinge.

Well you guys are better than I am. :oops: :bowdown: I been into the column a couple of times to replace a new multifunction switch (when installing delay wipers), and then again to repair a loose tilt joint. I simply could NOT align the teeth, lock cylinder, and key rotation when putting it all back together - BOTH times!. Drove me crazy, spend an entire day before I had to call in reinforcements. Maybe just a brain fart / mental block on my part, and I'm not real happy admitting it. But for moi: no more column work EVER again, except to replace the whole beast. It's just a diabolically engineered piece of sheite designed to give me nightmares. Anything else, now even including changing diff gears, I can do, but the GM columns just scare the crap out of me. Would love to switch to a floor shifter, but that involves column work, so I'm living with it. :cry: Geting ready to do that swap this weekend (wife permitting). I will post it up (hopefully pictures as well) under the build on the jeep.

This...was not funny. CTRL-ALT-DEL Task Manager End Job Note to self: don't click on stupid $#!& again.

OK - thanks I'll try it.

I did the same thing. Another useful feature is the Headlamp Sentinel delay feature. I had the delay module sitting around in a box of electrical stuff, and plugged just it in, the wiring was already there. It works fine, just turn the key off, pull the key, then shut off the headlights. They stay on about 30 seconds, then click off. If you don't want the delay feature, shut off the headlights first, then the ignition. :cheers: X2 with Don, I have found that headlight delay is really useful (as we have no streetlights here).

Yeah inverted, inside-out, reversed, external, the head looks like a regular bit. Honestly, I don't know if ya'll are pulling my leg, but mine just looks like a regular bolt - six sided.

I am in the process of swapping the shift-on-the-column non-tilt steering column with a tilt shift-on-the-floor model. It was going well until I tried to remove the bolt from the column pinch fitting right outside the firewall in the engine compartment. I can get at the bolt with a socket wrench, but it's size eludes me. I have tried 10mm, 11mm, 12mm, and 13mm, as well as the corresponding sae sockets. None fit - it's too big for 11mm and too small for 13MM. The closest was 7/8, but it started to strip the bolt and I stopped. It is not rusted, and does not look as it the corners are rounded. Can someone check this and let me know? I had to re-mount the entire steering column as I could not free this bolt. :wall: Thanks Jake

I am sorry to hear about your loss. Losing a friend can sometimes be easier then losing a faithful pet. Hang in there.

Don't do what another forum did and forget to back-up first. The new load failed, and they lost all the old posts! :wall:

Ya know, I have looked in all the FSM's I own for that answer, 'cause I need it as well. I pulled the right end (non-button end) cap off and then tried pushing the exposed white plug. It released the push button on the other side, but did not release the top part of the T. Hopefully one of these really smart guys will come along and answer this one :popcorn:

Check the battery to engine ground - ensure it's tight and clean. It's located behind and slightly below the oil dipstick tube.

Will they accept the wiring from the XJ door harnesses?

I believe we've had this discussion already.

:cheers:

I did the CPS replacement per the FSM direct wire to ECU mod on my 89. It did not make an appreciable difference in the amount of time it cranked before starting.

x2 Jerry, I was thinking the same damn thing! Well, I can't take money for it, as it is copyrighted. But I will see about getting it in electronic format and let ya'll know when I can loan it out :D

If you have a willing seller, and want to take the time you can check the oil pressure (on a non-nechanical gauge remove sender and install hand gauge and run engine) to get an idea of how the engine internals might be doing. The cluster gauge should show 40-60 at idle and vary with idle speed if engine is not too gummed up. Not scientific, but if you've got over 150K on the clock and she has not been gone through she might run well now but be a problem later. Then the usual: Strange valve sounds, Leaks (all jeeps leak - but is it just peeing like a cow on a flat rock?), If manual trans - shifting and clutch issues, etc, etc. From these forums I have noted that tire balancing, steering and control arm stuff is bound to be loose, bent, bad, or just generally needing attention in most all cases because of the age of our trucks. All in all, you might get lucky and find one that has not been dogged and taken care of. Generally, if you find one that has had the issues addressed it will be substancially higher in price..bring the information on your potential buy here and persons more expert then I can help you further.

Re-read your post and remembered that I forgot to tell you: when you test the courtesy light be sure you use the leads in the connector, not a body ground. You are correct, the pink wires are hot all the time, its the ground that is connected/broken to complete the circuit. And, if you accidently leave the door adjar (and the jamb switchs are good), the courtesy light circuit will test good all the time.