Akula69

Don, I think I have a cluster and a column out in the trailer.....I'll look tomorrow. Tell you what - if I do I'll give it to you if you paint all the chrome on your truck.....(RDG) ;)

Its difficult to protect against the lightening bolt due to its high energy content. There are several companies that offer surge protectors for various electronics (more like a power strip on steriods) and some even offer a replacement guarentee if the protected item gets fried - but they are really just playing the odds that your home won't get struck. There are external systems that companies install to the exterior of a residence or business which involve isolated metal spikes on the roofline connected to heavy cables that are seperate and insulated from the home's electrical wiring that run directly to an earth ground, but those are usually found on businesses due to high initial cost (although an homeowners insurance policy might give you a premium discount for it). Best bet? a series of inexpensive battery backup/surge protectors on the most important equipment (APC is a good brand) and a good earth ground for the home electrical panel (2 AWG wire and at least a 1/2 - 8 ft copper ground rod... not a 12 awg wire connected to a water pipe comming out of the ground). If the lightening ever strikes again the ground rod would carry away most of the current and what is left will simply fry the surge protector...keeping the current away from the electronics.

2003 Ford Dark Shadow Grey code: SPWC / 303722 We liked it too: Image Not Found

Like the work...would def want one if the design proves out. Couple of questions: 1) Like the additional brace for the steering box, but it would necessarily mean longer bolts..correct? 2) Would it change the angle of the sway bar mount to the extent that custom end links would be required?

Very nice truck

Its really tough to say there is any one cause. There are folks who will swear that it is solely balancing, but our experience was different. We have yet to replace the TRE or the steering arm, but did not have any more problems with DW until my son hit a curb piece the other day...and after that he had DW at 45 MPH when hitting an expansion joint in the road. I swapped the tires front to rear and the DW went away...meaning it was a balance problem this time. Folks at the local tire store said his tires have dry rot which they say can also cause DW. I say it can't unless the belts shift (which would be at best a balance problem or at worst a blowout or tread separation). We are gonna replace the last suspension parts (TRE and steering arm) and then see about tires. I'll let ya'll know what effect that has. As a side note...I looked under the WJ the other day and noted the upper 2/3 of the UCA are mounted inside the frame rail so they cannot move laterally....therefor pinning the axle in place without allowing side-to-side motion (otherwise the axle is quite similar in configuration). I wonder if we welded 1/4 inch plate down the frame rails and along each side of the UCA on the MJ if it would stop this foolishness once and for all (this would not work if the truck was lifted, but he has decided he doesnt want a lift).

Depends on how far you want to come. I am 5 hours away in Louisiana and have an OEM liner you can have for free....but you got to come get it. PM me if interested.

hahaha A couple of my death metal buddies loved this. Jesus...all we need is a flame gun and some spiked collars.

If it will crank and run on starter fluid, and you have fuel at the rail (but have not confirmed constant pressure) it could be the fuel pump ballast. The fuel pump initally runs off the ignition but then immediately gets power through the ceramic ballast located on the driver's side inner fender. You could try jumping across the terminals to see if that is it. If that doesnt do it, fuel rail pressure check is the next option.

If you replaced the bottom radiator hose AND it does not have a spring in it to keep it from collapsing while the engine is running you will have the symptoms you described. Read here: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25205&start=15

I don't know about the hacksaw....When I put mine in it only took a hole big enough for the plug...about a 3/8" drill bit.

I went to Lowes and got a 48 inch roll of the silver bubblewrap insulation and a can of spray adhesive. Spent about 40.00 total and it really quieted the cab (ceiling, inside B pillar, floor, and inside doors).

In answer to your question, in my son's truck we used all Moog parts (ball joints, trac bar and steering bar). They are just better quality. I believe I'd get the balancing checked again first.

Let the best moderator win (shameless plug!)

"some rust"? Gaaah! looks like a flock of rust peckers got to it.

It is a torx screw that holds the ignition key cylinder in the column. It does not have to be in the off position. There is also a locking rod (runs along the top of the column and connects just under the edge of the bottom column shroud) that can become jammed and keep you from turning off the key.

I agree with Rob, or go with option # 4

Both of Gjeep's comments are correct, and the white plunger device installs in the brake pedal housing (there is a hole for it. It is a vaccum switch that shuts off the cruise control when you press on the brake. There should be a black hose (approx) 1/4" in diameter) somewhere under the dash that plugs into it on the left of the plunger.

Christmas Jeep From this: Image Not Found To this: Image Not Found

Ah - no, I don't believe so. But I should have closed this one out as Fiatslug87 was able to snag one for me. Thanks anyway.

Installed one on Junior just last weekend, and had installed the one on the '89 last August. After I measured and found the center of the window (and the correct height) I put a thin coating of silcone gasket sealer on the back of the rubber seal for insurance. I did not seal between the plastic housing and the rubber seal as the screws should pull it tight enough to keep water out. Neither have leaked yet.

This thread is worthless without pictures! :brows: Thats funny - I had the same experience with one here...but after she leaned over and gave me a 'visionary experience'.... when my eyes slid back up to her face she was looking steadily in my eyes and smiling. It was all I could do not to use the tired line "When do you get off from here?"

Depends on a couple of things (IMHO): 1) Can you store it cost effectively without neighbors getting angry? 2) Would you reasonably have a use for the parts if they would not sell? I imagine someone would be willing to pay for the black interior pieces which would recover some of the $200.00, but the D35 would be a give-away part. The bed's value would be determined by just how 'rough' it really is under the bondo. Tailgates are roughly selling for $100.00 to $140.00 on Fleabay. I passed on an 86 with a 2.5 that was being sold for $150.00 because I had no place to store it :roll:

PM Fiatslug87 - he usually has those brackets.

Inside the housing is the clock spring (which is the fun part) that fits inside the center of a plastic spool. This spool holds the electrical cord which is extended/retracted when you pull on it. On the bottom of the spool are a series of brass contacts which transfer the current to the wire, and unfortunately they get corroded and lose continuity. (another Jeep device that uses these type of contacts is the neutral safety switch). There is also the possibility that the mercury switch is bad/broken. To check or clean either of them you'll have to fight the spring. To avoid my saga, after drilling the rivets out open the damn thing inside a towel (that can catch the spring). PS: if you aren't in a hurry you can send it to me and I'll repair it for the cost of postage and any replacement parts.