Akula69

Congratulations and well deserved

If you have replaced the lower radiator hose with an aftermarket one, the hose will collapse at highway speeds, restricting the water flow. The reason it collapses is due to the high suction in the system at those speeds. The origional AMC hoses had a spring inside to keep this from happening. I do not know if you can get an origional hose, the auto parts stores do have hoses that have an external spring, but I could not get it to bend enough to work. I ended up buying a hose meant for a chevrolet and pulling the spring out, then re-installing the spring into a "springless" bottom hose. My story is here: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25205

If you remove the dash but leave the harness hooked up to the steering column and the ECM (computer) you should be fine with moving it short distances.

Actually have the same problem when the A/C is on (except the belt does not squeal). I even replaced the alternator with a 100 amp model and it made no difference....but I do get the correct vots across the terminals, the lights do not dim and it has not failed to start when needed.

Oops. Thanks Pete

Now there are two things wrong here: 1) The traffic stop was handled all wrong. When they approached, they were correct in handling the civilians outside the car first - as they had the most opportunity to cause any harm to the officers. However, instead of immediately doing field interviews on them, they should have been secured and then the officers should have immediately secured the driver (so he could not drive away!). The second officer should have never entered the back seat of the vehicle before securing the driver. 2) Very obviously, this was a set up by the 'Ohioans for concealed carry" organization. If you listen to the video closely the driver had several times when he could have declared, but didn't. Even if you say "He was intimitidated", or "He was scared" it's not an excuse. The law clearly states you must immediately declare AND cross your hands at the wrists at the top of the steering wheel. The officer's behavior after he determined the driver was armed was uncalled for. He would have been terminated at our department after an IA investigation. HOWEVER - it would only have been because of his behavior AFTER he determined the driver was armed. All the other mistakes the officers made just endangered thier lives stupidly. Poor performance on the part of the officers.

There is an adapter sold at O'Reilly's and Autozone that fastens to the jack plate on a standard floor jack that allows the jack to safely handle a transmission/transfer case assembly. (you still have to secure it to the adapter...but snaking a chain up and over the transmission isn't that difficult). I believe its about $48.00.

Nobody knows the answers to these questions? Geez.

Alright. Searched forever (it seems) and come up with a thread where some folks were swapping Dakota rear brake lines in due to the increased height of thier lift. Seems the 1996 line was good, and would allow the origional vent bolt to secure the block to the axle tube. Is that the correct one, or was another year more appropriate? and, does the 8.25 axle take a 3" u bolt? Will the 96+ dual brake booster and master cylinder swap push enough fluid to support 96+ ZJ disk brake swap on the 8.25? Thanks

Yeah, the post is not too clear - I was typing after a long day. I tried to search the forums using "8.25" but the search engine responded with a special message saying "8.25 is too vague and will be disregarded". :nuts: When I searched for "8.25 Swap" the search engine disregarded the 8.25 and I got over 10,000 responses for the word swap :eek: do ya think we change a lot of stuff in here?! Anyway, I am trying to determine the best substitute axle-to-prop valve line. As stated before, somebody in here as used one from a dakota, but I can't remember what year. Selective memory, my wife calls it.....

Someone in here created a thread on swapping a Cryco 8.25 into thier truck. I have searched for it without success, and if anyone knows where it is I would appreciate it. In the thread the author suggested an alternative axle tube to rear prop valve line. I believe he recommended a 2000 dakota line, but want to be sure. I believe he also recommended 2004 dakota U bolts. Thanks Jake

Rachet straps. Worked every time for me.

I have a set, they have been painted but have a small amount of rust. I believe I have all 4 centers as well, and the 4 chrome trim rings (but I'll have to check on those). I can post up pictures if you wish. PM zip code so we can see how much they would cost to ship, but I'd take $10.00 apiece for them.

Um... "The Pig" :rotf:

Holy Crap dude...I am glad she's OK..cars you can replace, people are a bit tougher.

What year XJ did those visors come out of? I can't seem to find the 'snap' ones... btw - great work!

:agree: with Eagle, but for financial reasons I would start with the alignment, then move from there. As a person who has (at least for rignt now) solved the DW problems in my son's 89, the saga went like this: Alignment Steering box / pitman arm Track bar Lock washers on track bar mount bolts (they kept working loose :dunno: ) UCA and LCA with bushings Upper and lower ball joints Steering arm and tie rod ends Alignment Now, the steering is tighter them a bull's butt at fly time, and no more DW...no matter how hard we try to make it happen.

FINALLY! Now maybe we can stop seeing posts about the dismal MPG some of our truck have! :peek:

I had a similar problem with one of my trucks and it ended up needing the engine bay harness bypass TSB that is still available from most Jeep dealships. The link is a .pdf file http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_Links/CPS-87-90-update.pdf It allows the CPS to communicate directly with the ECM to avoid signal loss.

Not sure where you got the wire insulation colors from...all the tail harnesses I have seen use the same color scheme as seen in this link viewtopic.php?f=2&t=20578

Are you saying the A/C compressor continues to cycle without the ignition key on, or without the A/C (climate control) on? The A/C clutch is controlled by one wire from the engine bay harness, and can also be controlled by the system pressure switch attached to the evaporator/dryer. If there is activity when the switch is off then you have a short that is providing power in some other way. Jim is correct - a multimeter and patience is the key.

Beautiful cat, and its great how he supports you in your jeep "habit" :D

Congratulations!

:rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: It doesn't work Jim - I've tried it. hmmmm :brows:

The best thing is - when he got tired he went to lie down next to what he could sense (smell) was his owners (the shoes). That is one dedicated friend you have there Don....