Akula69

I tend to be risk adverse when it comes to towing - seen too many rigs get away from folks and end up in pieces. It is a bit far, so I agree with Mvusse...use a full size truck. In any case, welcome and good luck!

Good looking truck - Congratulations

Where did you pick up the floor/door jack? I've been trying to find one of those things for some time now....

Ah. Didn't know that. So the ECM only uses the temp sender (down low on the block near knock sensor) for going from closed to open mode? I though it also used that temp for the fan switch circuit as well.... So if only the switch controls the circuit, it should always have 12V power and when tripped it allows it to go to the fan. What is the in-line relay for? Learn something new every day...

Did you use an epoxy-sealer before the enamel paint? some of the enamel reducers will react with two stage paints and make a sticky mess. edit: what Alexia said... :yes:

Need a infrared thermometer like I (and Crusier) said. Sorry about the spent $$$ tho - it can be frustrating. Just for gits and shiggles: You say the fan comes on when the A/C is on, and it works when you run a jumper wire directly to the switch (and you hear the relay 'click'). The only other input in the equation is the ECM. Could the ECM not be responding when the temp indicates the switch should come on? You could temporarily swap out the ECM (if you have an extra - if not I have one I'd loan ya), or - if you own (or could borrow) a Snapon MT2500 (the red brick) it could tell you what "reading" the ECM is getting from the system. Good Luck!

Inside the engine compartment straight down from the heater core inlet/outlet at the bottom of the firewall where it meets the passenger-side frame rail. Your view of the hose may be blocked by the charcoal vapor tank. On some models the darn outlet is inside the passenger-side frame rail (only seen this once) and you have to use a coat hanger to clear it. Be sure and bend a (very small) loop at the end of the hanger, as the hose is soft rubber.

A jumper bypasses the wiring from the switch to the fan. Checking it with the A/C switch proves the wiring is good in that circuit. Pretty much narrows it to the sensor or the relay. Infared thermometers are cheap at HF (29.99 last I checked).

If you have A/C, does the fan come on when you turn the A/C on? The A/C bypasses the sensor and provides direct power to the fan. If it does not come on then there is a wiring/fan problem, if it does then the sensor is the culprit (or the wiring to the sensor). If it is the sensor, then generally they all work the same - the heat from the coolant closes the relay, allowing the current to run the fan. Some of the XJ/MJ have it mounted in a special fitting inline with the radiator hose (mostly the 86-87-88 years when present) the rest mount the sensor into a bung on the radiator tank. A good way to check the temps across the system is to use a infared thermometer, it can tell you the true temps at the tank (and by default, the sensor) to indicate if it should be activating.

ah - its because of all that global warming we've been hearing about - the movie is gonna be relased next year titled "Global Warming II - the Revenge of the Polar Bears' btw - it nice and balmy down here at about 65 degrees and sunny... :yes:

I might not be the first one to say it, but is it possible to go back to "vetting" the new members that join before letting them post? Could it stop some of this stupidity about handbags, cialis, viagra and the like? Thanks

Like Jim said, you need to decide what (if any) you want to do on your own. If you don't have a good amount of experience, its best to let the shop do the work, and they may have thier own preference of kits. It is a "pay for what you get" situation...each seller of kits uses different components (usually depending on what kind of pricing deal they got). I buy all of my components individually, and the total kit cost comes up to about 900.00 - but they are MY preferences, and I have no doubt there will be disagreements. Add to that the one-time use stuff like sealers and cleaners, and then add the machine shop work (like magnafluxing, pressing out and installing wrist pins, planing the head, lapping valves, and (if necessary) boring the block - you can easily get to 1,200.00 per engine. If you want to check prices in your area for my choices for the last rebuild I did (1999 4.0L): Crankshaft Supply (Crank 39027) Comp Cams (Cam part number varies) Sealed Power (Federal Mogul) pistons (H825CP), moly rings (E234K), cam (1244M) and main bearings (7211M) , rod bearings (63310CPA) brass freeze plugs (3818084) Fel Pro (Federal mogul) Permadry gaskets: head, oil pan, timing cover, front and rear main seals, valve cover, valve stem seals, thermostat; intake/exhaust Melling oil pump Clevite timing chain set Permatex Ultra Slick 81950 (assembly lube) Loctite 518 (rear main seal) Loctite 565 (Head bolt #11, water pump inlet tube) Loctite 598 Black RTV (timing cover and thermostat gasket) NOTE: as Jim said - you MUST either have the diagnostic tools to measure and determine the condition and size of the cylinders and bearing surfaces or have someone who can BEFORE you order any kit or parts. Some of the parts listed above will depend on those measurements.

Hole in thermostat goes to the top - it is designed to allow air trapped in the block to escape back into the coolant bottle...but you still need to elevate the rear of the truck and bleed the air out via the temp sender at the back of the block. The diagram in the FSM shows the anaerobic sealant just in front of the tabs - on the outside edge from the bolt hole to the edge of the tab on the rear main seal. Here: Priming the oil pump can be done in several ways. If I take it out, I carefully and completely pack it with vasoline, then reinstall. The vasoline causes suction to quickly build and primes the pump on first start. If I don't remove it I take the shaft of a cut-off screwdriver (about 16 inches long with handle cut off) mount it in a 1/2 drill. Remove the distributor and insert the screwdriver into the oil pump slot. Spin it Clockwise for about 5 to 10 minutes, then replace dist. and start.

I use this place, and have had great success finding exact matches to OEM fasteners at a low price. Unfortunately, some of the fasteners come in large quanities... http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Push_Type_Retainers_At_Clipsandfasteners_com_s/154.htm

Genovast had a valid point - just trying to help the lad. "You can lead a horse to water...."

:agree: to add to his comment, I have had great success using Loctite 518 on the rear main seal, but I've always used the Ultra Black for the water pump, timing chain cover, and thermostat housing (if no gasket is available).

I have pictures of the four "quarters" of the oil pan before I removed the bolts. I'll post them up here when photo bucket stops misbehaving.

Ah, jim's messing with the new photobucket....lol Don - We get the propane 50 gallons at a time for 2.75 (plus 0.24 tax per gallon). No delivery fee if I get 50 gallons or more. We run two water heaters, two furnaces, gas dryer and (when on) two gas fireplaces. I set them up to auto-deliver once a month till the tank is full, then every other month there after.

One item that I found when this was "my" problem was that the throttle body had fouling the area where the hard line went into rubber fitting. It was interfering with the vacuum going to the MAP. Cleaned using carb cleaner and re-installed.

Always been my motto. :agree:

Tell you what - I had a problem with motherboards and power supplies going out over and over again...it ended up being a problem with the power coming into the house. The power company put a special meter on it for a few days, then decided to install some kind of filter up on the pole. Magically, all my motherboard and power supply issues went away! (but no go on getting them to pay for the blown ones!)

Here ya go - I cringe when I look at it. Image Not Found It is really hard to tell, but in this picture the bumper tore out the lower portion of the left quarterpanel (where it wraps around the back) Image Not Found

Well, my son's '89 longbed got hit by a toyota tacoma tonight while he was on campus. He is fine without injury, but is totally pi$$ed off, as you would imagine. :fs1: Impact point was on the right bumper corner and right rear quarter panel - busted the tail lights and shifted the bumper over about a foot. I'm waiting to hear from the other young man's dad to see about repairs. Will post pictures tomorrow, but it appears we will be in the market for a lwb bed (as this quarter panel has been repaired before). The truck is a tough one, though - the tacoma lost its bumper, hood, fender and passenger door. Anybody got a spare lwb in good shape they want to sell? Jim?

Unfortunately, yes.

Aint that the truth....