streetjeep2.5

My initial thought is if those two next to each other are obviously worse than the others could it be a water jacket crack in the block? Or, is it just coincidental, like those just being higher up in the cyl's than the others the rust gathered there???? Guys, your thoughts????

Call the tree service who did the job. 'Splain what is happening. Have them send a letter to you, their letterhead, and explain they had every LEGAL right to give the chips to whomever they want since the tree LEGALLY became theirs when he/she signed the agreement. She, therefore, has no LEGAL claim to the chips. Use the word LEGAL a lot!

Downing a ShockTop right now! AND, thinking you understand things better when ripped (BTW, not ripped. One ShockTop) is the result of being ripped, but is not true. Consider Elton John admitting all he wrote that he thought was pure perfect because of being stoned was, when rightly analyzed, bad. Don't wanna be ripped and working on something that goes down the highway meant to keep you and others safe, 'cuz your thinking you got it purely perfect very well could result in an accident, like driving ripped. A beer or two while working, sure, but celebrate after the job is done!

Just replaced my master. It went from working to doing nothing. BUT, after installing the new one, I could tell that the old one must have been "slowly" going bad because no longer did it have a slight bit of "grind" when shifting down (I attributed the "grind" to a trans with 317,000 miles on it) and I have a stronger pedal now. I bet you do have a slight bypassing leak in the master which was not noticeable with the old clutch, and now the old master is not sealing well enough to handle the new pressure. Bit of advice. When installing the new M.cyl, barely start the bottom mounting nut and then attach the master cyl brake tube to the cyl while you can move the cyl around to get the threads lined up, otherwise you run the risk of stripping the threads on the brake line. Then place the bolt through the top hole and do the contortionist thing again to attach the nut under the dash! :grrrr:

Twas master. New one in (what a hassle to change!), and all working good! Actually has some "feel" to the pedal rather than a "soft" touch I did not notice slowly coming about! Thanks for the advice!

pumped lots of times, and no fluid loss or movement. Master? Seems that to me. Thoughts?

87 2.5 4x2 4 speed. Backed up and parked. Went to leave .... NO CLUTCH PEDAL RESISTANCE and DOES NOT DISENGAGE! Clutch master cyl is full. So, not a leak, but for it to INSTANTLY be bad. What you think? Master or slave cyl! GOTTA FIX TODAY!!!!! BTW, when i pump it, no fluid movement in the master cyl.

Thanks for the input. Will shoot for the 1.25 spacers. BTW, its a 4x2 so no lift and 225/70R -15 tires. More a "cosmetic" than practical thing.

I know it may seem a bit dumb, but I am bugged by how the rear wheels on an MJ are about 1 to 1 1/2 inches deeper into the fender well than the front wheels. I want to fix that. Options: 1. Aftermarket wheels with less backspace, but then they stick out too far on the front if the same width. :ack: 2. Aftermarket wheels and put 8" wide on the back and 6" inch on the front, but that does not trip my trigger either. :shake: 3. Stock wheels for the back widened by 2 inches, but MAN! That's expensive with shipping, etc., to the places I know of, unless anyone knows of a place in the St. Louis area that does that work, maybe Kansas City. :???: 4. Different looking wheels on the back than the front. YUCK! :grrrr: 5. 7 inch wide wheels where the front have the same backspacing as the stock wheels, but the rear with 1 to 1 1/2 inch less backspace. :???: 6. Spacers, but it would need to be at least 1 inch spacers. :dunno: Quickest fix is spacers, and that, too, is about 80 smackeroo's. And, I've heard pro's and con's to spacers. Truck is highway only, 4x2, but occasionally hauls a fairly hefty load of stuff needed for landscaping, etc. Ya'all got opinions? Know of aftermarket wheel companies that offer variable backspacing on the wheels I choose? Spacers a safe option? :roll:

Yea for rustless floor pans! A rarity now that MJ's are getting older!

:popcorn:

Throw in one of those "over the hump" rubber mats, and your good to go! More noise in the cab, though, from drive train and road. You will get a slight ECHO - echo -ech - ec - e also!

Yea, LOTTA work but worth it. When I bought my 'manche was wet inside. Had to pull everything. No rust, but to kill mildew used lotsa clorox and vinegar and scrubbed the youknowwhat out of the carpet. Let it dry about a week and reassembled.

Yea, belts off. No sense in turning stuff you don't need to. Plugs out, PB in, Trans in Neutral. A good sized breaker bar is needed, not just a socket wrench. If you don't have a breaker bar, a piece of pipe over the handle of the socket wrench will do. BTW, if you are using a socket wrench, best not use a 3/8 inch drive! Use a 1/2 inch drive! Could break your 3/8.

Hmmmm. A PA rig. IF driven in winter and salt and crud not cleaned, bet it's got rust issues. Needing paint could mean not garaged or barned, but sat outside. Bit high in price, me thinks!

Push seat belts through, take 4 nuts off, unplug seat belt electrical buzzer connection, lift it out, get spacers off of bolts. You will need to pull the console and take the seat belts loose also if you plan on taking the whole carpet out. Oh, yea, remove the door sill covers, the kick panels, and probably the pillar trim also for ease of taking out and putting back in. If there is a back panel below the rear window, need to remove it also.

Yup! Before you do ANYTHING, plugs out, Tranny in Neutral, 19mm socket and breaker bar, and see if it turns. If it does, PB the cyl's for the fun of it and do what was said about this process in an earlier post, get a good battery, and after cleaning the plugs and probably the dist cap, etc, wire 'er back up and see what happens. Don't wanna hear that you fired it up only to hear a big POOF! and the hood blows off because something in the engine tried to meet up with the space shuttle in orbit! :grrrr: BTW, :smart: on a 4.0 cyl's are 1 to 6 front to back, firing order is 1,5,3,6,2,4, and if you look straight down at the distributor cap, 1 is at the very bottom, and wires go on clockwise, so plug wire from the plug in cyl 1 goes on the very bottom, plug wire from cyl 5 one the one to the left of bottom one, and etc. Oh, yea. :waving: WELCOME TO THE MADNESS! And, before doing too much, swing in to a parts store and get Chilton Repair Manual #40602 to cover Wagoneer/Comanche/Cherokee. Got a WEALTH of necessary info as you join with the rest of of in committing :bowdown: Comanche Idolatry!

Missouri Law as was told me by DMV: only an engine of a later year that was available in that platform can be swapped in. So, for a 'manche, you are stuck with the 4.0 as the biggest, if you were to operate according to law. 'Course, here in small town Missouri, the local "inspection guys" told be "if you pull in here with a V8 under the hood, we don't care!"

By filling up to first click of pump and then moving price to $.50 or $.00 for ease of ciphering (not same pump) and running until 1/4 or less and dividing miles by gallons: My 94 XJ 4.0 4x2 auto was getting 23-24 highway. My 87 MJ 2.5 4x2 4speed gets ... well, don't know. I don't check it. Guess I should. My 2010 Patriot Front Wheel with 2.4 (172hp) and auto trans and packing wife, myself, dog, luggage and has under 2,000 miles on it that replaced the XJ that had 256,000 on it got 26 from Indianapolis to St. Louis last weekend. I like that!

Just remember that is what the family said the doc's said. His head must have been "smushing" them on the headliner, effectively "trapping" them in his hair, and they started biting. He did have on his head the holes the venom causes, and the venom finally got to his vital organs. The only reason he didn't die quicker was he was a "LARGE" (ie. kinda fat) man and it took longer for the venom to do it's thing.

Oppppssss! Yea, ZJ!

On the spring question: If I was to replace my 2.5 in my 87 MJ with a chev350, best to use the V8 YJ coils or 4.0 XJ coils?

Nope 2wd w/ mopar 8 3/4 rear with a spool. I, too, have asked AdvanceAdapters about needing a lift if putting a 350 in a 4x2 since their listing is for a 4x4 and having to deal with a differential. Soooo ... what you say appears to show, even when the mounts you used places the engine lower than the ones AdvanceAdapter supplies, the oil pan clears the front axle and suspension. Cool! BTW, front or rear sump pan?

Naaa! But, guess what! You, too, shall arrive at our age some day, and then young un's in CC can rib you. :yes:

Spray da grey with black fabric dye, and Whatchaknow! A black board! ;)