streetjeep2.5

I want to slowly rebuild another 2.5 for my 'manche and will use a later one with the increased hp, and then I can use a bored out intake body and a spacer in addition to cam, header, match the intake and head surfaces, etc.

Yea, fergot about that! Engine bay on an 86 not made for a 4.0. You could do a 2.8 v6 or the one built off the 2.8 but I forget the CID. Again, I have an 87 4x2 4 speed power nothing MJ. I rebuilt the 2.5 adding a camshaft made by Delta out of Tacoma WA that is one step up from stock, Header by Clifford Performance, and a single in, dual out Flowmaster. Certainly not anything like a 4.0, but my 2.5 runs quite well as far as I am concerned. An electric fan and a cold air intake might even help more. Might consider just rebuilding the 2.5.

Don't worry about it. Prove yourself worthy of never being dismissed again!

It's a lot of work putting a chevy 4.3 into a jeep. Gotta have ALL the wiring and do some fabricating, and you still won't have the torque and ultimate reliability, although a 4.3 is a good engine, that you get from a jeep 4.0. Besides, you might want to check with local laws. Many states say you have to have an engine that was available for your vehicle, and you can't have an older one, but only a newer one. Doesn't matter if a 4.3 is less polluting. The EPA is actually pretty stupid on these things. Anyway, I thought about a 4.3, but I would go 4.0 first. But, I plan on getting a 2.5 and begin building it with ported heads, cam, pistons, etc and bring in an about 160 hp 2.5 that will be LOTS of fun and hopefully not mean any worse gas mileage. Guess what. The EPA can't say a thing about that! Heee, heee, heee.

Make this something that will cause your now new boss to give nothing but great raves as to your work and be REALLY upset with even the possibility of loosing you! Such employees are hard to find, and worth keeping, if ya know what I "might" mean! :waving:

Now THATS what I want to do with my grill! But, oh, how sad to see such a nice 'manche hurt so bad! :grrrr:

... that the reason the police"person" saw me wandering a bit on the highway and pulled me over is because unlike any vehicle today this jeep has manual steering with over 300,000 miles on it yet all the ball joints are good, and when they say ..."huh"? ... and look at your odometer in amazement you gotta explain what manual steering is and what ball joints are, and how this differs from power steering and transaxles.

A chase scene between a gutless Road Barge and a gutless Pontiac Ventura? Gotta remember, those were the years when Detroit took care of air pollution by lowering the compression rate on engines to the point they were a gutless piece of crap that spewed out raw gas on the ground instead of spent gas in the air. Notice in the sound footage haw sssslllllooowwww the engine gets going in the bad guys road barge! Probably an engine pushing 400 cid but with only 150 hp! Neither one of them could get enough mph up to make for a decent chase scene until they had about five miles to get from 40 to 70 although we had the sound of a 4 barrel carb sucking in lots of air and gas that ended up out the tail pipe and on the ground. Chase scene? Nope! NOW, a 440 and a 390 pushing over 300 hp each in Bullitt! Better, man! Even the ford and chevy with maybe 1/2 to 2/3 the cid in Thunder Road did better than those in Seven-ups! Now there is a cool sound! Ford Flathead with Offenhauser heads and tripower and a cam and headers. Ohhhhhh!

I know it can't compare to modern chase scenes, but the police after Robert Mitchum in "Thunder Road" was good. Except, at first the chasing car was a 57 chevy, but became a 57 ford somewhere on the road! BTW, I have steel bodied very detailed 1/25 models of both Bullitt cars!

Great! Again, treat this job as though it's a masterpiece, the most important job there is. You never know what can happen! A story. After a couple of small jobs my first real job after high school came in 1967 at the Ford dealership where I detailed the new cars that came in and other assorted things. They started using me to deliver parts for the parts department, and because I took my dads advice and treated my job as though I was painting a masterpiece, this translated into the parts department wanting me to work in it full time, and after taking courses on the Ford parts numbering system, I started. Then I was drafted into the Army. They told me my job would be waiting for me when I returned, and it was. After a few years they started grooming me to be the department manager for when the other two guys retired. They were upset when 9 years later I told them I was leaving for Fort Wayne, Indiana to attend Concordia Seminary and be a pastor! So, do whatever they have you doing very, very well, and see what happens! You may be the one they keep while others go!

It was yesterday, Monday June 7 about 3pm heading East toward St. Louis, about 50 miles out. I was heading west in my white 4x2 Manche. It was 4 wheel drive and raised, black with black wheels, and looked like it had a light bar and front brush guard. Sound familiar to anyone? Clean looking!!!

Ohhhhhhhhhh! To have that sound in my streetjeep at a stop light! :thumbsup:

You said your "local" MAACO does a great job and your family car fixes are evidence of it. Care to elaborate? Maybe you have decent guys to go a bit of the extra mile at your local MAACO on smaller jobs, but the guys are right in a full paint job. BIG difference. They don't sand but use some kind prep to make it bond for a short time and don't do a quality spray job or use quality paint. Earl Shibe (spelling?) did the same back in the 1960's. Had a car done by them.

:needpics:

Sounds like you are heading in the right direction. And, let me add. There are people who apply for jobs looking like they just got out of bed and speak like they have a right to that job. Instead, be well groomed and show a possible employer you mean it, and be very polite. If they say they have no openings, ask if it's alright to leave a resume anyway, and if you check back. And then, check back! I can't remember the exact way he said it, but when it comes to doing a job, my father said "if you can only get a job sweeping the streets (back then street sweepers were not machines, but people with brooms) sweep them like you are painting a masterpiece." Now, go get em!!!

Ask Correy for the pictures of his AX-5 rebuild... then we can talk about whether or not there are yellow metal parts in one... Me thinks I shall search around for some non-GL5 lube and get-er changed in my AX-4 yust to be on der safen side, ya!

... as you pass other pickups or an XJ and they look at your MJ you grin and say to yourself, "bet they're jealous!"

wrap it up in an old blanket so it doesn't rattle and lay it on the floor behind the seat! That's what I did. If you have to use it, and you are on pavement or gravel, the blanket makes it a lot easier on the knees! ;)

Good point. I have an 87 w/4 speed. What fluid is the best out there that will not harm the syncro's? When I rebuilt my 2.5 almost 3 years ago I replaced the seals on the trans and topped it off with a gear oil that has the GL-5 rating not knowing what I have now learned. I think I need to drain and refill.

:popcorn:

So, old AX-15's that originally used 75-90 as per specifications are now to have 10-30 in them?

Why would you want to, when the correct fluid is available??? What fluid would you suggest? Redline MT-90 or Amsoil MTG are both excellent choices. The both meet the API-GL-4 rating which means much lower levels of sulfur, which is what attacks and destroys the yellow metal parts of the transmission. Both are 75w-90 gear lubes, so they meet the original viscosity requirements also. Great info thanks! I'm running M1 10w-30 High Mileage right now and the case seems to get awfully hot... I've read good things about Amsoil, but its not easy to get in my area. Not sure about where to get Redline it in my area. Do you think the trans will run cooler with the correct viscosity? Question, or I am really dense. You ave an manual transmission and are running 10w-30 (engine oil viscosity) in a trans that should be using 75w-90 (trans viscosity)? Am I missing something here? Would this not be causing your awfully hot transmission case???? :hmm:

I had a 63 1/2 falcon wagon till my son got a hold of it They were truly a class act. 5 hole 13 inch wheels made it easy to put on 14 inch with 70 series tires. Windshield sloped back a bit more than earlier Falcons. 260 with Fords 2 speed auto was a drawback, but switching to the 3 speed c-4 was a breeze. I was building a 289 with 4 barrel regular fuel pistons, the hydraulic version of the 289 hi-pro cam, a dual plane hi-rise topped with the autolite 4 barrel, and headers to go in it. C-4 with a shift kit was going in behind it. But bucks for the family was necessary, so it and engine was sold. :grrrr:

Yea, me too in a love of wagons! My first real car was a 57 chevy 2 door wagon (not nomad). When the 327 I put in it was getting up in hp I started having wheel alignment problems, and found out it had been wrecked and the frame straightened. Bought a 55 chevy 2 door wagon and moved the drive train into it, and got it up to 525 flywheel hp. Got married and sold it. Later on we owned two wagons I wish I still had. 63 1/2 Falcon wagon when they started putting the 260 in them, and later my mother-in-laws 64 Chevy II wagon with 283 and 3-on-the-tree. Both of these were 4 door. Sold both out of need for funds for the family. In 94 we bought another "station wagon" now called SUV, our Cherokee. Traded it in after 267,000 miles a few months ago and now have another "wagon", the Patriot. Still a "wagon" fan!!!! But now they are Jeeps!

Patriot with about 3500 miles now. Too early for synthetic? Been mostly highway driving.