mvusse

From my experience with MO, their stuff is good quality. As for how much lift depends on tires. I run 4.5" with 235/75R15 (29"), and it is right at the absolute limit where the tires look too small. I would suggest running at least 31" with 4.5" lift. From the Comanches I've seen in action, 33" tires and a 6.5" lift (soa rear) is a good looking and very capable combination. That is the ultimate goal for my truck, but can't afford it right now. Getting 33" tires next (should work with my 4.5" lift and minor cutting), but not in the near future. After that I can lift it more.

To quote another post I've seen recently: With a long arm suspension on front, make sure your brake lines are longer than your shocks and your shocks are longer than your limiting straps.

On a rails to trails bicycle trail in my general area.

Yesterday morning on my way to work it was $2.09. On the way home it was $2.05 10 minutes later on the way to the hardware store $2.04 5 minutes after that on the way back $2.03 15 minutes later back to the hardware $1.99 They changed the prices 3 times in 30 minutes :nuts: Diesel is $2.99

Your rear brake proportioning valve is flipped over. Disconnect the rod, turn it counter clock wise and reconnect the rod. the rod should be more or less straight up and down.

Heck Pete, you're the initial cause of my off road body damage. Back in June when I said my truck was just stock, you told me to bring it to Badlands anyway. Now I'm hooked!

Mid 90s Dakota in rear, YJ up front.

X2 on the rust. At some point in the past tap water must have been used instead of distilled. And that rust is REALLY good at plugging up radiators and heater cores.

Wow, that sucks. Best of luck finding a new gig.

Yeah, but I don't have a welder, and nobody makes lwb rocker guards that I know of. I did find out that underneath the paint, the rockers are pretty much 100% bondo anyway. I think I'll drive it, build it and wheel it without worrying too much about the body. When it starts to fall apart move everything over to a better one from the south.

Christmas presents are different, even if to myself. Plan is I will be in Canada from 12/26 through 1/3. I could swing by either the 26th (boxing day) around 9:30 am, or 1/3 (Saturday) around 4 pm or so. May have a 12 year old and/or an 18 year old with me. If both I will be driving the Suburban or it's replacement (wanna buy a 94 Suburban?), if one or none the MJ.

Makes me remember almost getting T-boned by a TJ barrelling downhill backwards when his brakes let go last week. The moment he hit level ground he stopped on a dime. TJs have ABS by any chance?

Bad pump or bad wire going from lock ring to pump. This happening when replacing injectors is coincidence.

It is also possible something failed not letting the system pressurize (cap?), causing the coolant to boil at 212 degrees, and causing the overheating and little or no heat in cabin from not enough coolant left.

Hey, I know the 401! Then again, my parents live in Canada and I went to college in Waterloo (UofW). But I will not believe you were going any slower than 120... :D Anyway, sounds like either a clogged system (both radiator and heater core), a stuck thermostat or a bad water pump. Try running without a thermostat, to see if you still overheat. If so, take the truck to a radiator shop and have them flow test the radiator. You didn't by any chance use tap water instead of distilled, did you? I plugged up 3 radiators with rust gunk from iron in the water before I learned my lesson.

Did you by any chance disconnect the wiring harness in front of the tank? Use a test light with a sharp tip that can push through the insulation and check for power starting at the tank and working towards the front. Will need one person to turn the key on and off periodically while the other tests the wire.

Hydraulic pressure will work every time :D

The bumper is rated up to a 2000 pound trailer and 200 pound tongue weight. That information is stamped in the bumper. Furthermore (from my 87 manual): Class I hitch: 2000 pound trailer weight, 300 pound tongue weight. For any engine or transmission. Class III hitch 5000 pound trailer weight, 350 pounds tongue weight weight carrying or 750 pounds tongue weight weight distributing. Needs 4.0 engine, automatic transmission with transmission cooler, power steering, heavy duty battery, cooling system and axle (Dana 44)

Urban myth. Yes, it flows through the radiator faster, theoretically droping the temperature of the coolant less. But since it is dropping the temperature of more coolant per any amount of time, it is actually transferring more heat to the air, making the system more efficient. Also, the coolant also flows through the engine faster, which again, won't increase the temperature as much, while transferring more heat per unit time. the only reason to limit water pump capacity is to limit the amount of HP used by it, which will lower your mileage. If I run hotter without a thermostat, then why did every car i have ever owned with a temperature gauge, in which I have temporarily ran without a thermostat for various reasons ran cooler then with. To the point of hardly having any warm air from the heater, and me being able to hold coolant hoses or radiator indefinitely without burning myself. 79 Ford F100: 195 thermostat between 190 and 205. Without thermostat between 150 and 160. 91 Geo Prizm: 195 thermostat up to 195. up to 210 in hot weather stop and go with A/C blowing. Without thermostat ~120. 94 Suburban: 195 thermostat between 185 and 205. Without thermostat between 160 and 165 87 Comanche: 195 thermostat between 190 and 210. Without thermostat between 150 and 165. Also had an 84 Olds 98, an 82 LeBaron and an 81 Caprice. Never ran the Olds without a thermostat and the other two had idiot lights. My data does not support the flawed theory.

Unlocking the door is not the problem. With the ignition in the lock position (the only position the key comes out), the transmission can't be shifted out of park.

It does lean a bit, and I have a spacer to fix it, but can't be bothered to install it. The lean looks worse than it is in this pic, though, because of my uneven driveway, on top of some weight in the bed all on the ds.

Great........now your going to have all kinds of problems when you go to change your springs / shackles on a weekly basics :shake: So.......what do you figure, you got about 2k miles and 2 country's on that quick disco???? :teehee: No, more like 5k miles, 2 countries, 5 states and 1 day off road. I guess all that loosened it up some. And I finally installed the new adjustable ucas today, almost 2 weeks after I got them. Got to adjust them a bit longer yet, and then get an alignment. Also developed a vibration after adding the lift shackles. Starting to become a pet peeve, and might also by why my lug nuts came loose. Going to drop the transfer case some to get the drive shaft angles closer to equal to see if that helps any, Hey Wildman, thought of a price yet on that light bar?

Thanks for the correction. Learned something new again.

Your answer helps, but the article does not. It teaches you how to replace the seals and swap axles, but has nothing about replacing a 2 piece shaft with a single piece.

Shift the transfer case to neutral, forget about the transmission for now.