mvusse

Did I read correctly you converted to cooling system to an open system without an overflow bottle? Then if your radiator is full, and the engine warms up you push coolant past the cap onto the pavement. As it cools back down, it will suck in air to replace the extra volume. Now you have air in the system, which can cause cooling issues, especially if you end up with air trapped in the water pump, causing it to not move the coolant. Not your current problem, but might have been the cause of it.

Yeah, I was quite embarrassed after lunch when I needed 3 tries and a running start to get up the very first hill on the easy trail at Badlands last week. It wasn't until a quarter mile later I realized my front wheels weren't pulling. Looked under and there are the vacuum lines, just dangling. I guess the 4wd light not being lit *could* have been a tip-off, if the bulb hadn't been burned out a few months back... say, if I remove the shift fork and stuff, would a single piece passenger side shaft fit in my current housing?

Congrats. And yes, I was surprised also by how much power these engines have after I got mine to run right. In my case it was a broken plug wire causing me to run on only 5 cylinders. Gas mileage stunk also, but now I get 24 mpg on the highway if I stick to 65mph. Not bad for 21 year old truck with a 4 liter engine and auto transmission.

How about the dimmer for your dash lights? Mine only works for on, and anything even a bit less is off. No in between. One night my clock and dash lights didn't work, and after 10 minutes of fiddling I realized i had accidentally turned the headlight switch maybe 1/8 of an inch. If mine works that badly, it might simply be that yours is broke. If you disconnect it, you are effectively in daytime "lights off" mode, which will nit illuminate your dash, but will turn on the back light for the clock.

Any vehicle with a knock sensor, which is the vast majority of vehicles with computer controlled timing and all newer vehicles, will retard timing if ping is detected. This includes our 4.0 engines. In those engines, if you modify the distributor to advance timing, unless you run high octane fuel, the computer will just retard timing back to about where it was originally. I tried it on my Suburban. Advanced 5 degrees from factory. Got a bit better better gas mileage on 93 octane, but same on 87, and not enough to offset the higher price per gallon. After 2 months it started to run like crap and missing. When I pulled the distributor cap, all of the contacts had burned away quite a bit from sparks when the coil ignited after the contacts in the cap were not closed.any more. New cap installed, timing back to factory specs and things are still good 3 years later.

That was a lot of reading, but unless I missed something, the Purolator Pure One would generally be the best one?

Sure does sound like a bad ground somewhere in the front lights wiring. Most likely the left parking light doesn't have ground and is grounding through the turn signal filament (which is in the same bulb). The fact that it happened during the cluster swap might just be coincidence.

front drive shaft shifter and linkage for TC rear drive shaft What transmission and engine do you have? If possible see if you can find a (cheap, wrecked?) 4wd Cherokee with the same engine/transmission. You can get everything you need off it except rear driveshaft, and would already have the same gear ratio as your rear axle.

pm sent.

$2.13 here. Below $2 20 minutes north, though.

Why can't I find deal like that?

Some body damage pics: Smashed license plate and bracket: Rear bumper (again): Bed side (probably coming out of the tube): and rocker panel: I also got a bit muddy, but somehow the cap stayed perfectly clean :???:

Well, the weather was too nice to not do something outside, so I worked on the truck some. Changed the gear oil in front and rear axles. Front axle oil was a bit muddy. Must have got some water in it. Rear axle was just pitch black, about what is to be expected for 21 years and 136000 miles. I had checked the level and topped off a few times before, but should have drained and filled it, as I found out earlier the PO was a bit lax about maintenance. Interestingly, the rear cover has a date from 1985 stamped into it, and black RTV, the front one has a date from 1988 and red RTV. On a 1987 truck. Evidently the front one has been off before, and been replaced. I also had a bit of trouble getting the bottom bolt off the front one, as I'd smashed it on a rock at Badlands last week, Couldn't get a socket on it, but an open end wrench still worked. Then I replaced my black chime module with a blue one. The blue one had one more pin (and the harness had a matching one), but noticed no difference in function. I then plugged my new headlight sentinel module into the harness for it, and now have the delay function when I turn off the ignition before the headlights. Also installed my new tail light lens to replace the one that got busted when I got hit. No more duct tape! And last but not least, At the camp ground at Badlands, JeepcoMJ broke my rear spring quick disconnect :cry: . He kicked it twice, grabbed it and pulled it right off. :eek: :D :cheers: New ucas will hopefully go on tomorrow.

I went to Walmart once. I had 2 snow tires to put on the rear of my F100 a few years back. At 7pm I found out we were supposed to get 4" overnight, and they were the only place that was still open. Drove over there, parked the truck. Guy went outside to pull my truck in (after market floor shifter on a 3 speed standard), and 20 minutes later came in to tell me something was wrong, it wouldn't go into gear. I get in, and he somehow pulled the shifter linkage out of the engagement points on the transmission. So I spent 15 minutes on my back under the truck in 2" of rain water when it was 35 degrees out. Not happy at all. As I back out of the spot I realize it was up against the picnic table in front of the truck. I know I didn't park up against it, so I checked and sure enough: my license plate is mangled. So before the idiot pulled the linkage out he took off forward, assuming he had it in reverse. So I pull my truck in, and ask to speak to the manager. While waiting for the manager to show up the idiot takes my rear wheels off, puts the first on on the tire machine and attempts to pop the bead without releasing the pressure first. I knock on the glass to get his attention, he waves to me and ignores me. Tried 3 more times to blow the tire up in his face before he realized his mistake. The manager arrives, and I point out that idiot should not be working unsupervised as he is clearly not qualified. I also explain the mechanical trouble he caused on my truck (now fixed) and the damage to my license plate. He said he'd check the security camera footage, but told me not to expect too much as the lighting is not the best and I had no proof. So I go walking around the store to try and relax a bit, as I'm now thoroughly pissed, and get back to the tire dept. 30 minutes later. There's a lady at the counter now, so I pay. As soon as I get my receipt, idiot walks in and tells me he's done. As I'm about to get in, I notice 5 lug nuts sitting on the floor, right beside my ds rear wheel. I ask him to be sure: "You're all finished?" "Yup!" "THEN WHY THE F*CK ARE MY LUG NUTS ON THE FLOOR???!!!" "oh..." I will never have Walmart do anything to any of my vehicles again.

Here in semi rural Ohio, tire places charge between $12-$14. If you can mount the tires yourself, use beads (air soft BBs work pretty good, or there are companies that make beads specifically for this purpose) inside your tires to dynamically balance themselves as you drive. Pop on side onto tire, dump in a bunch of beads, pop other side on, inflate.

Why on earth would you try to use IE anyway?

Don't let our secretary hear that. She runs those tires in the 285/75R16 size and swears by them. She drives a (cough) ford F250 powerstroke.

First, ditch the Thornturds. They look nice, but are the least functional (non-functional) tires Interco ever designed. Second, air down and be gentle on the throttle. You want to spin your tires sloooooowly. Spin them fast and you're just digging holes. P rated, or LT rated 6 ply (load rating C) will probably do best. D and E have too thick of a side wall to balloon out.

On top of that, gasoline can't short it out because it doesn't conduct. Water with ANYTHING in it (so any water except distilled) does conduct and can cause a short if it gets in the pump motor.

Whoops! Sorry.

Got word that Canton, 20 minutes north of here, is at $1.99. We broke the $2 barrier!!! :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:

They are probably custom springs. But it could be done with 4.5" springs and 1.5" lift shackles.

What are you talking about? He's *been* obsessed.

Good thing I asked, I guess. The spec sheet for both the 33x12.5 and 35x12.5 Bighorns list a 10" wide rim. But 8" does make sense for the reasons you listed. So 15x8 Cragar Soft 8s with 4" backspacing should be a good choice, right? Would rim width affect the 3.5"-4" measurement for backspacing?

Assuming I buy 33x12.5 tires, and some new 15x10 rims to put them on. Running stock width axles, what backspacing would you suggest? How about 35x12.5? Same backspacing, or different?