mvusse

Chicks!

Nothing in my Jeep yet. Hopefully keeping it that way this weekend as I have to drive it home afterwards.

In a few years I will look for something like that to move my drive train and suspension over to. For now I'll drive and wheel the dented rust bucket.

Definitely 4.10 gears. That's what the 41-10 stands for: 41 teeth on the ring gear, 10 on the pinion. It IS a Dana 60. In the last picture, look on the bottom right of the housing. That 60 is the model number. And I'm guessing they are 17 spline axles, not 16. And yeah, they're nice big pictures. Glad I got 8mb/s. I would hate being the poor sapsucker with dialup trying to download them. Anyway, are you sure they cut the shafts off? Being a FF axle, it is trivial to remove them, and much easier than cutting.

You suck! :D I miss Canada.

Just found out I got lucky. There are 2 sizes bearing carrying the 6203 number. There is the fully metric ones, 17mmx40mmx12mm, and then there are the hybrid ones, 5/8"x40mmx12mm. 5/8" = 0.625" 17mm = 0.669" So if I would have had a 5/8" bearing, I might possibly have had a problem.

I may some time. In the meanwhile I got a bearing from TSC. They packaging as well as the TSC web site call it a 5/8 bearing, but the description in the store says 17mm, and the bearing number is 6203. Only bad thing: made in China :roll:

Well, I decided to install my new idler pulley only to find out it does not fit. Autozone ordered another one that should be here Tuesday. Meanwhile, I could just replace the ball bearing (6203, a relatively common one), but don't know if I can find one locally. To order one affordably, would take until Thursday to arrive. :wall:

Jack the truck up, set the front of the "frame" on jack stands, and let the front axle droop down. Disconnecting shocks and brake hose/line connection bracket will help. If stock, lower control arms can also be a limiting factor. After them the stock track bar and (on the passenger side) the upper control arm will limit you. I had to disconnect all that to get 4.5" springs in, but most of that stuff got replaced at the same time so had to be removed anyway. The rest (just the upper control arms) will be replaced this coming week.

Take it to a shop to have a front wheel alignment done after the lift is on.

I'm guessing 60 also, but agree it could be a 70. 80 is improbable.

I was about to mention track bar or alignment. I have had DW happen at anything over 45 due to a bad track bar and bracket, but after lifting the truck I've had it happen as low as 35 mph due to about 2" toe in.

New front brake hoses are on, new idler pulley (bad bearing) will go on tonight or tomorrow, and the new adjustable UCAs will be here Tuesday. After I get those on I got to have an alignment done, better call Monday to make the appointment. Cutting it a bit close, but if push comes to shove I can wheel it the way it is now, even thought the pinion angle is a tad low. On a side note, we found out that the RE springs on my buddy's XJ didn't ride stiff because of the stiffness of the springs, but because the stock XJ shackles were maxed out against the back of the brackets, not allowing the springs to flex. So he tried my stock MJ shackles and all is good now. With the front sway bar still connected, but the rear disconnected we can pick up a rear tire 18 inches before the other side leaves the ground, and I think the limiting factor is the shocks. The MJ shackles are still not maxed out at that.

DANG! The hood is even with the roof of the XJ

When I first got it, $400 Right now, about $1600 invested, including purchase price and tires. ($900 from insurance for getting hit helps or it would be $2500) Next up, not necessarily in this order: new bed, paint job, bigger tires, front locker, roll bar.

Maybe use a Ford solenoid on the positive battery cable to install a kill switch? Only down side is, it will reset your clock and radio when you use it.

Crud. I just threw away a Summit Racing catalog yesterday. I know they have mini spools. You can look them up on the web.

Even though I voted the poll in this thread, as a Dutch citizen (just an immigrant here, never applied for naturalized citizenship status yet), I can't vote in US elections.

Where you at? Truck looks good now. Even more multi colored than mine. Can't wait to see future steps in between now and finished.

I hate to point out the obvious, but you have a 20 or so year old truck. Have you ever had the radiator flow tested?

I have an 87 4.0 auto, and it's an AW4. Shifter pattern is P R N D with a circle (overdrive) 3 1-2

I use Champions in my Jeep, and it seems to like them. After trying Bosch, Champion and NGK in my Suburban (each set lasted less than 1 year) I found it is only happy with the stock AC Delcos.

Check out http://www.bds-suspension.com, select products by vehicle, 97 Cherokee XJ 4wd and it shows all lift kits they made for that vehicle along with what parts they gained the lift with. Pretty much nothing on the rear would fit, I'm guessing front would interchange.

These are not the spacers where the lug nuts go through the spacer and then the wheel. The lug nuts bolt the spacer to the axle. The spacer itself has studs that bolt to the wheel. I have been using the same setup (although 1.75") on my Suburban for a number of years now. I got them for looks, but the added stability was a bonus. Have towed with them (upwards of 7000 pounds), have hauled drywall with them (65 sheets of 4x10 at 88 pounds each for a total of 5720 pounds, yeah it was squatting a bit. Good thing i have add-a-leafs in the rear), and put about 30,000 miles on them. Check them every time I rotate the tires (5000 miles) and no problems yet. For the Jeep, I want the rear tires out a bit, but not the front. When I flex the suspension, the rear is limited by the stuffed tire hitting the inside of the wheel well, but if I stuff the passenger front tire, it almost hits the fender flare (axle shift right if the right hand side of the axle moves up due to the track bar), so my front tires can't be out any more. 3 solutions: 1 - wheel spacers on the rear 2 - tub the rear wheel wells 3 - get different wheels with different back set for the front and rear between those, I chose #1. Doesn't Pete run a spacer one one side only on the rear of his wheeling rig?

Wintermark snow tires in P235/75R15, extra load rating. It's the largest size they make. Cheaper than MT, about the same tread wear, and, in my opinion, better traction. They are outstanding in snow, mud, sand and wet leaves, quite good on dry pavement and rocks and not too bad on wet pavement.