mvusse

The physics work if you are immersed in something that can conduct electricity, like water (ships, piers) or the ground (pipelines). Vehicles, however, operate in air, which does not conduct electricity. It could technically possibly be made to work with two grounding straps dragging along the ground, but no system I have seen does this. The boxes are designed to look nice and complicated to make one believe it does what is really being done by the paint job, galvanized sheet metal and e-coated or polyester covered undercarriage used on most modern cars.

Yes, the larger one is the output. This might be a stupid question, and you can smack me for asking, but you did plug in the electrics for the tank (pump and sender, 3 wire plug), right?

Converting 2wd to awd is the same as converting 2wd to 4wd, except you have to use a 242 transfer case from a Selec-Trac Cherokee as opposed to a 231 transfer case from a Command-Trac Cherokee or Comanche. Make sure you grab the Selec-Trac badges as well, as a Selec-Trac Comanche was never actually produced. If you build one, you might as well advertise it. The 242 will still give you the part time 4 high and 4 low options like the 231, but it also gives you the additional option for full time 4wd, which is commonly called awd nowadays.

The vent lines are supposed to go to a t-fitting with a single line coming off, which then connects to a steel line (looks like a brake line) which in turn goes to the charcoal cannister.

The new rims look good.

My 1.25" wheel spacers were here when I got back from Canada, but they had a few issues: 1-no lug nuts 2-one stud completely fubarred from someone using an impact ratchet on a cross-threaded lug nut :nuts: Still, what can you expect buying a used set for $50 including shipping. Took me 30 miles of driving store to store only to fail at finding lug nuts that would work. They were all too tall. Then I realized the lug nuts I had left from the front wheels of my F100 might work. Sure enough... On to the stud: No press, and beating the stud out like the broken one on the truck didn't work, so I put the spacer in my toaster over at 500 degrees for an hour. A few good whacks with a BFH and a burn blister later it was out. $2.12, a washer, a lug nut, breaker bar with extension, crow bar and liberal amounts of tranny fluid later I had a new stud in. :clapping: So today I finally installed them. They make the rear wheels look almost the same as the front, and a lot better than stock. I then got the forklift and started lifting a front tire (after removing my quick discos). I got off the fork lift a few times to make sure the MJ was still firmly planted and not getting tippy, because even just seeing the truck from outside it it seemed like it might go over. I can only imagine what it would feel like from inside. When I finally got it up to where the rear wheel wanted to start lifting the opposite side rear bumper corner was only about 4" off the ground. Measuring from the floor to the bottom corner of the lifted front wheel is 27.5", or 3.5" more than I had. I think all four corners are limited by either fully compressed or fully extended shocks, and my stuffed rear tire is still 1/8" away from rubbing the inside of the fender. Extended rear tire looks funny, almost completely sitting beside the truck. 8) I'm happy with the flex, the spacers doing what I thought they would (keeping the tires off the inside fender walls) , and adding a bit of stability as a bonus. Sorry, no pictures as I left my camera at home. :doh: I will take some when the weather gets a bit nicer outside. Looking at the flexed out axles from the front truly looks awe inspiring. Now just an Aussie in the front (income tax return) and I should be good to wheel again this year. Other planned projects for 09: custom rear bumper and rocker guards (although it is really a bit late for them).

Sorry to hear (read) about your luck. Between Jeepco and myself, who have also been hit in the back, although more on a side/back corner, I think you sustained most damage. Mine was just sheet metal, I don't know for sure what the extent was on Jeepco's truck. That leaf spring might be okay of you manage to get the shackle back to where it belongs. But from the lack of space between the bed and cab, I think the frame got bent. Now you have to decide if it is worth it to repair, if possible, or if you have a good start to make a truggy. And yes, that mangles piece of purple steel used to be his home made bumper. Too bad it seems the Honda went mostly underneath it instead of fully into it. Might have saved a lot of damage.

If I Remember Correctly.

Take the shocks off and *carefully* take it for a spin. If the clunk is gone you know it's the shocks.

No, I see the word "image" in text a number of times.

I would not run a spool on anything that does street duty. A spool forces both wheels on an axle to always spin at the same speed. Whenever you turn, the outside tires make a wider arc than the inside tires, meaning the outside tires need to spin faster. This goes for the rear axle as well as the front. With a spool this is not possible, meaning at the least you will eat up tires and squeal every time you make a turn, more likely one of the rear wheels will start hopping until one day you either snap an axle shaft or a U-joint on the drive shaft. Spools are for straight line racing. Think drag strip.

I would go with an Aussie. In 2wd it will not affect anything other than making a clicking sound when you turn. In 4wd it could cause problems if you have too much traction (like on pavement or packed dirt), but then you shouldn't be using 4wd anyway. The Aussie (like most) also allows one wheel to overrrun the other wheel (this is the clicking sound) to be able to steer. It is a locker, not a spool. If you route the vac disconnect through a dash switch (ask Jeepco, I think he's done it), you would essentially have a selectable locker, except with the axle disconnected your front drive wheel would always be the driver side, not matter which one has more traction.

Radiators work best when there is airflow going through them. That is a lot easier to do up front than in the back. Mounted in the back it is essentially sitting in an eddy behind the cab and you need to do some tricks to divert air toward it. Buggies do not usually have a "cab" to block anything. Any reason you want to move it from it's stock location?

I have a long bed and ever since the first trip off road I decided a short bed would be soooo much better.

That's because you don't have to work on them everyday! I can't stand them! The older trucks weren't bad. Now with all the armor and 4L80E transmissions they are junk. There are over 100 things that will lock that transmission in 2nd gear! Limp mode can be caused by any number of problems on any newer vehicle. I will take a 360hp Duramax bolted to a 4L85E or Allision 1000 over any other drive train out there. And yes, that combination is available on the Hummer Alpha.

cc stands for cubic centimeters, also called milliliters. 1000 of them in a liter (litre) and until recently used everywhere except to USA. Last number years the car industry has been using it here too... 2.1l 2.5l 2.8l 4.0l 3100 3400 3800 5700 5.3l 6.0l 8.1l 7.4l powerstroke etc.

"This truck was never used for anything but t drive an old man around" Rust on top of of tailgate and tweaked rear bumper.... Old man my @$$! This truck was worked. For $1K or less it sounds like a good parts truck for body panels, or a rust free start of a project. Then again, the engine bay is too old for a 4.0 without some mods.

If you paid too much $$$ for a "failsafe" thermostat, those are designed to never close again after they have reached 210 degrees. It's a gimmick, a bad design and a waste of money as 210 degrees is well within operating specs for any vehicle I know of, and only 15 degrees above where ours are supposed to open. But either way, it sounds like it is stuck open.

The earlier pictures I thought it stuck out too far on the sides and I probably would have cut the bed (both those corners are junk on mine anyway) to suck the bumper in another 1" or so each side. But painted black made it look less somehow. I plan to make my own rear bumper some time this year, kinda like the JCR or $500MJ bumpers, but with sides that extend forward towards the rear wheels.

Where they point depends on TDC compression stroke, or TDC exhaust stroke. Which one you need depends on whether the distributor is pointing at #1, or 180 degrees away from it. If the distributor is run off the cam it doesn't matter, if it is run off the crank you have to pay attention.

I'm not laughing. If that were my rig it would NOT go off road for fear of scratches in the paint, not to mention body damage. Heck, I wouldn't even drive it in the winter here in Ohio. That truck is too beautiful to mess it up.

Yesterday I pumped the tank dry, dropped the tank, took out the pump assembly, flushed the tank, cleaned it out, put the supposed dud pump back in with a new sock and reinstalled everything. Today I drove it 350 miles no problems, so the dud pump is fine, just the sock that got plugged up with a gritty black paste. Today I took it through a car wash with a chassis bath option to remove 1000+ miles worth of road salt from this past week.

Anybody aware the only true Hummer (Alpha) was designed by AM General, which was spun off AMC because the US would not let a foreign company (Renault) own an company designing US Army equipment. This was when AMC owned Jeep, and is why the Hummers have patented Jeep grills. Every Hummer GM sells they have to pay a licensing fee to Jeep/Chrysler for the grill. The way I see it, the Hummer Alpha is the next evolution of the original Jeep. The H2 and H3 are not Hummers the same way the Patriot, Compass and Commander are not Jeeps.

When I went to Canada Dec 26, gas in Ohio was at $1.549 US, Canada was $0.661 Cdn. When I went home Jan 3, gas in Ohio is $1.799 US, Canada still $0.661 Cdn

This was like new tank, no rust anywhere inside or out. The crud is black, possibly very dark brown. There were a few larger pieces in the tank, 1/16" to 1/8" diameter and when I crushed them between my fingers it became a course paste. The sock was coated with the black "paste". The sock on the new pump, which was in the tank for not quite a week after just had a little bit on it. The coated one was on before, and for only a few days, but I'm guessing it got coated within the first few minutes after I filled the tank. I did have a 1/2 block drive to the gas station that may have been fine. All I know is after I filled the tank and before I got home it had problems, which was in the span of <3 miles after the fill-up. Whatever it was is gone now. Most of it in a bucket with some gas as well in my parents' garage in Canada. I didn't mean to hijack the thread, I merely went off on a tangent while trying to post "If you are positive the pump has a problem it might very well just be a plugged sock."