mvusse

Messing around with fuel pumps, filters and tank yesterday I discovered that an "obvious bad pump" as in can't push enough fuel any more to get up to 45mph and only if you baby it, starts bucking with too much pedal, and pump can be heard from 50" feet away, was completely solved by putting a new sock on it. As in the sock was clogged and the pump was fine. As a test I drove it home today (with the bad pump) with the new sock on it 350 miles and had no problem keeping 75-80mph for almost 2 hours before I hit Ohio and had to slow down. I did flush and clean the tank, no idea where all that crap came from, but it clogged the sock on the one replacement pump in a matter of minutes. I do still have to replace the fuel filter, though. It is a see through one and I can see dirt in it as well. So the dud pump was not a dud after all. It still has to go back (or at least one of the 2 pumps does) to get my money back (warranty).

Umm, yeah, most shocks do no like being upside down.

Did it have the location in the title?

If you can find longer spring perches they will help combat axle wrap.

Wasn't Motion Offroad working on that?

Find a 87 through 90 Cherokee 4.0/auto with the 242 transfer case. I believe up to and including 90 would still have the mechanic speedo, the transfer case bolts to a AW4, and everything you need is there with the exception of the rear drive shaft. For that take your 2wd shaft to a shop to have it shortened. Assuming your MJ is 4.0/auto, the front axle ratio should match your current rear axle.

4 cylinder engine means it would have 4.10 ratio gears.

:agree: I'm bald on top, and grey in the beard, and that's from only 2 girls.... Welcome to the club. Beer's in the fridge.

I used that same kit and am very pleased with it. The frame is very thin sheet metal (unibody vehicle) and without reinforcing, the holes will rip out. With this kit the frame gets sandwiched between the brackets, and the load spread toward the back more, while at the same time strengthening in case of side pulls.

Pick-n-pull.

I've heard the firewall just needs to be modified 1/2"; a few good hits with a BFH should do it. Although it is rumoured some of the later 86s already have the newer 87 and up firewall. And yes, I've heard the 2.5 is gutless on stock tires. I have seen 35 under a Comanche and think they look too big, but even with 33s you'd probably need to run at least 4.88 gears. With a 4.0 you should be okay with 4.10.

Yes, with the CAD always engaged the front axle does act as a solid axle, but it still has a differential. With the CAD disengaged you just spin the shaft with the least resistance, being the half shaft that ends at the disconnect With the CAD engaged, you still spin the shaft with the least resistance. Since there is no unconnected half shaft, that now becomes the wheel with the least amount of traction. To spin both wheels you need a spool or locker. I'm actually installing an Aussie Locker in my front axle some time this spring.

Ignore my alternator advice. I was thinking 4.0, not 4 cylinder.

Make sure you get an alignment done, or at least grab a tape measure and get toe in as close to zero as you can get it. That much lift will give you a lot of toe in (2" in my case) and cause *SEVERE* death wobble at speeds as low as 35 or 40 mph. Severe enough to fubar the bearings in my alternator.

Phone call finally woke me up an hour ago. Happy new year!

:rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

Consider yourself lucky. Second last time I broke a drive shaft (and last time I broke a front drive shaft) was in a full time 4wd K10. More than 1000 miles from home in the US on Saturday July 4th. Nobody was open. By the time I had coasted to a safe pull-off, which was a bit because I was on a bridge when it happened, the front half had punched beat the oil pan to a pulp, although it was not leaking, and the rear half had punched a bunch of holes in the transmission pan. I stole a transmission pan off a used truck at a dealership, leaving my name and phone number both under the wind shield wiper and on the showroom door. Then I couldn't get the transfer case into 4 lock, so I ended up wrapping a chain around the frame and bolting it to the front output flange of the transfer case. That got me halfway home when I found a drive shaft shop sign on an old barn beside a house. Rang the doorbell and had me two custom 1 ton drive shafts made, one for the front and one for the bent rear one (Yippee! No more vibes). Also found out the reason it wouldn't go into high or low lock was too much clay built up on the linkage. Gotta love northern Ontario clay. Monday at home I got a call from the dealership telling me not to worry about the pan as that truck is going to the scrap yard anyway. This was back in the 80s. Second drive shaft I broke was anticlimactic. I pulled an F550 dump truck away from a stop sign and made it 2 feet before I lost power. Drive shaft broke at the rear u-joint and fell to the pavement. That was in 93 or 94.

The power option will delay the shift point to a higher rpm. I use it occasionally on my 4.0, but not much because the engine makes decent power. I get good gas mileage (for a 4 litre) with the switch set to comfort. It would be worth leaving it to power for a long trip to see how it affect mileage, but common sense tells me it should go down. Then again, common sense has been wrong before. As for the alternator, there are two different ones. The higher output is larger in diameter and a tight fit. I don't know for a fact if the brackets are the same, but (at least at Advance Auto Parts) they cost the same and are usually in stock. And welcome to the club!

WD40 is meant to displace water and is a piss poor lubricant. If you ever try PB blaster, you will never figure out how you did without it.

I wouldn't be surprised if you have one or more leaking injectors. With the truck off they will slowly bleed off the remaining pressure into the combustion chamber(s) and flood the engine. Do you have a lot of black (or blue) smoke ater it finally start

The wiring may or may not be the same, but the actual light assembly (designed for a Cherokee) does not fir on a Comanche.

If you have a disconnect axle you can do it. If you don't have a disconnect axle, see any of the messages above.

I wanted to drive through/over or around if that didn't work. He talked me out of it and instead we ended up walking/slipping/falling on an ice covered road. I must have scared him when going through a snow filled ditch and back up to the road to get around a truck blocking a road earlier. Or maybe it was plowing through ice covered snow and over downed tree branches and trees (although not very big ones) on a road without winter maintenance an hour earlier. This is what one of the roads looked like after we went through it twice (going in and coming back):

My F100 had that problem. Hit the gas to get up to speed, let off to get traction back, a bit more to get up to speed, let off to get traction back. A huge PIA especially if it was raining.

The only thing remaining of any of the 4 studs on the ds in mine were tiny rusty cones. I ground them flat, drilled them out and used 4 bolts, 8 fender washers (one above bolt head, one between floor and seat bracket), 4 washers below the nuts and 4 nylon lock nuts. I opted for the bolts running from the bottom up, so rocks and stuff on the trail would not mess up the threads if the seat ever needed to come out again. Has worked well for me so far.