mvusse

Whereabouts is that at?

Don't pay any attention to the brake lines. They are temporary until I can get shorter ones now that I have rear disc brakes. Also, a lot of the nuts have not been tightened down yet, breather hose is missing and drive shaft is not done yet.

I just put an XJ axle under my MJ. Cut off all the XJ stuff, and welded on new perches and shock mounts. When I had the original axle under there with a SOA conversion I used the original spring plates underneath the axle on the old perches and use the shock mounts on them, using square u bolts to hold everything together. Now I'm using round u bolts and XJ spring plates on top of the axle. Gives me a bit more clearance under the axle, and allowed me to put the shock mount exactly where I want it. Allows full droop with the brake line almost tight, but less up travel, to keep the tires out of the fenders.

I have never seen a cluster without a tach that had red lettering, and I've never seen a cluster with a tach that had blue. It's a shame, though, as I like the blue lettering better, as well as the speedometer being ticked every mile instead of every 2.5 miles. But I like having a tach better. I just wish I could have the best of both worlds,

According to Haynes: Rear leaf spring -Front and rear mounting bolts - 109 ft-lbs. Since the front frame to spring bolt, rear frame to shackle bolt and rear shackle to spring bolt are all the same, I assume that number covers all three of them.

Time for an upgrade! As for me, I made some brackets for the brake hoses coming off my new rear disc brakes, and plumbed the brake lines back in. For the moment I'm using the old lines, which are quite a bit too long now. Will have to get some shorter ones in the near future.

Since the axle is not mounted in the center, but roughly a 40/60 split, the truck will drop about 2/5 the distance ;)

I googled "green av", and this was the first hit to come up:

I personally would add another junk yard leaf, either a Comanche main leaf with the eyes cut off, or an S10 or Exploder one, but an add-a-leaf would work too. Be sure to use a new center pin, and you should use new u-bolts as well. Neither of these should be used more than once. Also the load sensing level is horizontal in the wrong direction.

Actually, has Germany not had a program like it in the past? It is horrible for the environment; the best thing you can do to the environment is keep old clunkers on the road as long as possible and produce less new cars. But our economy is in the toilet, and car manufacturers got hit extremely hard, with indirect results throughout the entire economy. This program is meant to sell more new cars to help the auto makers, and in the process help the steel industry as well as companies producing all the little car parts like weather seals, light bulbs, gas tanks, tires etc. and keep people working making money. This program is about trying to help the economy recover; screw the environmental issues it creates. Did it help? Probably. Did it help enough? Probably not. Is this the right way to do it? Not in my opinion.

Actually, with a SUA suspension like a stock MJ, the thickness of the leaf does not add to lift. The bottom of the leaf pack just sits that much lower below the axle, but the axle still sits on top of the main leaf. Only with a SOA suspension does the thickness of the leaf add to lift.

The dealer is required to drain the oil and then add sodium silicate to the crank case before running the engine. It will mess up the engine so badly it cannot feasibly be rebuilt.

That's a stock leaf pack. The thick bottom leaf is a stock overload leaf.

Dropping the drive shaft is not needed, but does make it easier. With a lift it may not make a difference.

I'm guessing about $70 in gas, which is doable, but 4.5 hours each way makes for 9 hours travel time. But the point is moot as I am busy that weekend.

They will total it if it's any where near 80% of the value of the vehicle. But in my case, cosmetic body damage was going to be $2k plus to fix on a truck appraised at $1250 (which is more than I had invested in it at the time). Instead I haggled with the insurance company and got $1016 while keeping the truck with a clean title. I then turned around and spent $1016 on a lift kit :D

:agree: I have seen a video of one breaking in half, and I've seen two of them like that sitting in junk yards.

Ditto with a zip tie. But now that I have disc brakes in the back I may have to adjust it a bit.

I tried XJ shackles when I first went SOA. When the axle is drooped fully down (as when the rear come off the ground), the shorter shackle is so far forward that when weight comes back on the axle the shackle flips up in the forward position -> bad!

Depending on what perches you use, spring over will lift you anywhere between 5.5" and 7" over what you currently have. Height of current perches plus diameter of axle tube plus height of new perches plus thickness of spring pack Marcel

He is addicted to Comanches. Tried a 12 step program: step 1 buy another one step 2 buy another one ... step 12 buy another one That's about it, right Bob? You have 13 of them now? ;)

Can always pull the cover and check the numbers stamped in the ring gear. Or jack up one wheel, put trans in neutral, rotate tire twice and count revolutions of the drive shaft (just over 4, or just over 4.5).

Maybe they decided a shackle would not be strong enough for the load capacity of the truck? GVWR is 25,600 pounds...

Thought about doing that. Don't have $800 to spend.

Police report is also needed for the insurance claim. No report -> claim rejected.