mvusse

New axle has been installed in Bush Pig. Now I just need to do brake lines and drive shaft.

Rear suspension of the GMC C6500 at work doesn't have shackles. One end of the spring is bolted, other end of the spring has no eye. It rests in a bracket and is allowed to slide in said bracket to allow for suspension flex.

That is what finally solved my fuel pump issues permanently, after having replaced 3 pumps in a half year. Last "bad" pump has been working fine after a new sock (again) and wiping the inside of the tank clean. That was 9 months ago.

Yesterday on the way back from Harbor Freight I was a red MJ on I-77 south, Ohio mile marker ~101. Getting back from having spring perches and shock mounts welded to an axle I saw a blue one on Tuscarawas County road 78(I believe) in Ohio, and then on the way to my daughter's volleyball game today I saw a rusty black, dark grey or brown one sitting at a business between Magnolia, OH and Waynesburg, OH on state route 183.

Got the perches and shock mounts burned on permanently, had new u bolts made, and started to install the axle. I then decided I was going to use Cherokee spring plates I will get at pull-a-part tomorrow, and that's as far as I got because of my daughter's volleyball game (followed by ci ci's pizza )

These tracking numbers have been delivered to Linden, NJ, USA. The original poster is from Norway.

I believe everyone who's lifted their Comanche or Cherokee more than 3" runs an adjustable after market track bar. i don't know of any other brand vehicles that share track bars with Jeeps, not to mention be the exact correct length. I believe RE makes some good ones.

Axle out, other axle under, up, down, out, under, and after jacking the truck up and down more often than I care to remember, as well as jacking the axle up and down numerous times and bolting the wheels on and off I now have the Pig's new axle in the back of the Cherokee, spring perches and shock mounts tacked in place, ready to have them burned on permanently.

Back out the bols, but don't remove them. Stick another bolt between the head of a bolt and steering knuckle. Start engine, turn wheel, and the power steering system will easily press the hub/unit bearing out of the knuckle. Took me 15-20 minutes to replace a 22 year old hub rust welded in place with 140,000 miles of use. An impact ratchet for the spindle nut is a must have.

I hear quite a few of the 92s had a D44 for no reason other than that was what was left on the shelf. Also some were specifically ordered with a D44, but not towing package or MT package. Still, the opening bid, even though it's more than I would pay, is not completely out of line for a Comanche D44 with stock perches in the correct location.

Wow! Busted the main leaf right off! Are the mounts and shackle still good?

If you don't know the difference between piping and tubing and are asking what "really strong piping" is called, then I personally also doubt your engineering and fabrication skills. The people above do give some really good advice: save up for a bit, and buy quality after market adjustable lower control arms.

Oops. erred on my part. Yes, if you use blocks to lower the rear, shock length will not be affected as the stock shock mounts are below the spring, regardless of where the axle is.

I don't know that you can lower it that much without doing some serious front end work. The front axle would get in the way of the engine. For dropping it an inch or two you could get lower springs for the front, may have to get a shorter track bar, and shorter shocks. Rear could be done with blocks. Again, shorter shocks may be needed.

Even though it sounds unlikely, I would not be surprised if it is the gears in the rear axle. Oil could be low, or pinion shaft could have gotten messed up.

Are your control arms adjustable? Beside them, you will need springs (obviously), shocks, brake hoses, track bar, sway bar end links (quick discos). For the rear (SOA?) you will need shocks and brake hose.

5/8" is 15.9 mm. 17mm is closer to 11/16". If the hole in the bearing is too small, it is 5/8". You can check with a tape measure. Both my 87 Comanche and 94 Cherokee use 17mm.

I'm guessing the idler pulley needs a new bearing. After attempting to order a $20 pulley from the parts store twice, and twice getting one that wouldn't fit, I went to TSC and bought just the bearing for $6.29. I believe the number for the bearing is 6203, but beware, there are two versions of this bearing. One has a 17mm center hole (the one you need), one has a 5/8" center hole, which will not fit.

Except for the metric speedo, that's what my Comanche had. Swapped full cluster with tach in, and sold the old one to Zoolander, I believe, right before his truck got in an accident. ps: no offense, I just can't remember your actual screen name.

I added more than 25% to a rental truck Monday and Tuesday... Monday, 11 am I picked up a 16' box truck at Penske with 3900 on the odometer. Truck still smelled new. Returned it 2 am this morning with 5180 :D

If it doesn't work, and you're not afraid of getting dirty, you could always take the cases apart and move the SYE to the other case.

For inexpensive, go with an add-a-leaf in the rear. Add Chevy drop shackles if you still need a bit more. In the front use a 1.75" spring spacer and 2" shock extenders. Stock brake lines and sway bar ends will still work. For best quality: Rear: 3" springs (Hell Creek) and new shocks. Longer (95 Dakota) brake hose is optional. Front: 3" springs, new shocks, longer (YJ) brake hoses, sway bar quick disconnects, adjustable lower control arms and adjustable track bar. Adjustable upper control arms are optional. You could go with a long arm kit, or drop control arm brackets, but IMO they are a waste of money at 3". Stock sway bar links will work with a 1.75" spacer, but not a 3" lift. Ditto front brake hoses. Either way will look good with stockish (235/75R15, or ~29") or 31x10.50 tires.

The Renix engines like low rpms and can get excellent mileage that way. On stock tires I used to get 24mpg going 60 down the highway. HO engines like to rev higher. My 94 XJ gets better mileage at 75 than it does at 60. So for a Renix 4.0, the switch makes sense. For a HO, it's useless.

My pump which was toast enough for me to limp into my parents driveway in Canada after spending an hour to cover the last 20 miles still drained 3/4 tank in under an hour when I hot wired it to a battery charger. Disconnected the pressure line, and lined up 5 gallon buckets to pump it into.