mvusse

31x10.50r16 does exist, but starting at $185 (Parnelli Jones) going up to at least $370 (Procomp). And that is PER tire. I can't imagine paying $1850 for 5 tires in that size. Maybe for 37s... 265/70R16 is almost exactly the same size, with many more tires available for much less money.

Man! Haven't played that since high school.

I'd love to have a shop with an overhead crane like that. Then again, I'd love just to have a garage to work on my junk.

Although my buddy's cheap steel wheels on his TJ are hub centric (and a pain to get off when changing a tire), I'm pretty sure my stock aluminium 10 spokes are lug centric.

Tightened up the accessory belt so it doesn't squeal any more.

I think it is just that we have a large number of adults (and mature younger people) on this site as opposed to a bunch if immature little kids that like to make trouble. That is one of the reasons I like this site so much. Mature conversation instead of flame fests. Now back to our regularly scheduled topic. I am interested in the rest of everybody else's thinking on the evolution vs creation issue.

That is a non-problem. My truck did not have the nutserts. I just used 1/4" bolts, some washers and nylon stop nuts to bolt the skid plate to the cross member and frame. The holes are already there.

The loc-rite pins are "designed" to break when too much force is applied. The Aussie is a better and newer design from the original people who designed the loc-rite. the loc-rite also limits your tire size for warranty claims. Aussie has no listed tire size limit. I believe 95 YJs came with a CAD and larger joints, but they may be hard to find in the junk yard. Someone on JeepSkool.com is selling a 2 piece passenger side shaft with the larger joint for $40, though. You could change to a single piece shaft, as I have done. Cut a metal plate and drilled 4 holes in to use as a block off plate for the vacuum disconnect housing. I used the old housing as a template, and a jig saw and drill press. Hand drill would also work. The only problem area is the oil seal. The vac disconnect axle has a seal on the outboard side of the disco housing. A single piece shaft needs a seal right at the diff, but a standard size seal will not fit the disconnect axle housing as the tube is thicker and inside diameter is smaller. After a bunch of research I found one that worked at NAPA, but can't remember the part number. The info is in my build thread, though, which is linked in my sig. There are two schoold of thought: 1 - Keep the disco, and pull the vacuum lines in winter to prevent the axle from locking. This will give you one front drive wheel, and one free wheeling wheel to allow you to steer with. On ice, there supposedly is not enough traction to put enough force on the locker to unlock. Two front drive wheels spinning the same speed on ice will keep you going straight no matter which way you turn the wheels. Not good when you want to make a turn. This is what I originally panned to do. 2 - Go to a single piece shaft because the vacuum lines get snagged off road and pulled off the axle at the least opportune moment. Happened to me three times! A single piece shaft with the larger u-joints is also easier to find. Just use 2wd or drive a different vehicle when there is ice. This is what I ended up doing. And the advise on upgrading to the larger u joints is good. I blew up one of my original small u-joints the first time off road with the Aussie. Upgraded to the axles with larger joints and bought two new Spicer 5-760X joints. Still good after larger tires and 6 off road trips.

Didn't someone on Ebay make replacement headliners for Comanches?

Yup, that's a D35. Pinion seal leaks can be caused by an out of balance (bent) drive shaft. Add to that the vibration and it's a definite possibility.

Atheist here. Brought up Protestant Christian, but around age 16 or so I realized I didn't believe any of it. Took me two more years to figure out exactly where I stood regarding religion, and have not seen any evidence strong enough to change my beliefs in the last 20 years since then. As much as I do not believe in deities, or more accurately, believe in the non existence of deities, I also recognize this is a personal belief, similar to faith. I accept that other people have their own beliefs that may or may not be the same as mine, and that is fine. Everybody has the right to believe what they wish to believe, and nobody has the right to push their beliefs onto anybody else. As such I have had very refreshing and even enlightening discussions with people of various religions. My ex wife and oldest daughter are United Methodist, my youngest daughter is at the moment, as far as I know, non denominational Christian. That's all fine with me. I don't push her, she goes to several churches with different friends, and will make up her own mind when she is mature enough to do so. I also have some personal theories about Christianity, and Catholicism in particular, but will not voice them in an open forum, as with a large enough audience, there is always at least one person that takes extreme offence to these theories, and I do not wish to start a flame fest. Not everyone is as accepting of other's beliefs as I am. And that's all I have to say for now.

I ran 235s on stock suspension on my MJ. At full lock they barely rubbed on the lower control arms. If you listened carefully with the window open you could hear it. Rubbed the dirt off the arms, but not the paint. I run those same tires on my 94 Cherokee now, also stock suspension, and no rubbing. Yes 31s will rub when you turn the wheels too tight. But I know people that have run 31x10.5s on stock 7" rims and stock suspension without too much of a problem. Just don't steer too close to full lock.

http://www.innovativebalancing.com/BigTirechart.htm

It reduces your rear drive shaft angles. Needed with lots of lift on short wheelbase vehicles like Cherokees and Wranglers. Not needed on MJs as the drive shaft is more than long enough to not have too steep of an angle even at 7+" of lift. And even on vehicles where it is "needed" it is a quick and dirty fix that in my opinion should only be temporary until the problem can be fixed right. The bad: Weakened cross member mount and lower ground clearance as your cross member will "float" an inch lower than the rest of the frame.

That keeps the transfer case lubricated. Transfer case oil is completely isolated from transmission oil. One nit I have is the manual does say transfer case in neutral, transmission in park, but a 231 transfer case does not have a true neutral. In the neutral setting the front and rear drive shafts are connected. At least, in mine they are. This forces the front wheels and rear wheels to spin at the same speed and will result in at a minimum tire scuff, and possibly even hopping through tight turns. Hopping is a great way to brake u joints. There has been a debate in the past about whether an NP231 does or does not have a true neutral. I tested mine 2 days ago when I had the rear off the ground anyway to check some things with the new axle. Yes, I was playing with the fork lift again.... No pics this time, though.

The drive shaft has been balanced at the factory, and will stay balanced unless it got bent, twisted, or dented. If it is damaged like that, it can possibly be repaired/rebalanced if not too bad. If the damage is bad it will need to be retubed or replaced. The u joints are a good possibility also.

Forum: The Pub Topic: Introduce your Comanche... My new to me '87 Pioneer 4x4 4.0 automatic, just bought it two days ago.

Out of balance tire or drive shaft.

:???: Both my MJ and XJ hit the steering stops on the axle long before I hit the end of the steering box. And the D30 can actually steer quite tight.

Assuming the rpms are the same, as you state, yes, you'd have the same amount of torque.

A lift is not necessary to run 31" tires. But to lift your Comanche, Hell Creek makes 3" as well as 4.5: lift leaf springs for Comanches, and sell both a 3" kit and a 4.5" kit. The kits pair up their rear leaf spring with front components from I believe Rough Country, but don't quote me on that. Hell Creek is a member on here, so if I'm wrong, I'm sure he will pipe up. Also, the transfer case drop kit included with the 4/5" kit is not needed. Most people who go SOA pair that up with 6.5" springs in the front, or 4.5" springs plus 1.75" spacers.Most run 33" tires with this set up. It might look okay with 4.5" in front, but you will most likely have quite a bit of rake. In my opinion, 3" lift looks the best with 31" tires.

Jazz! :chillin: May have to find the album now....

Well, am I glad the police force here in my rural Ohio town understand they are serving it's citizens, instead of being a ticket machine.

Okay, then, it never existed in my 87.