mvusse

I can't stand him, but my 13 year old daughter is a major Fred-head.

I run those and am happy with them.

No clue. The AMC 20 has a bad name because of the 2 piece shafts they had in CJs. The Comanche AMC 20 has single piece shafts, and is quite strong. But as it's not very popular, there's not a lot of after market support for it. If it has a locker, great. If it doesn't, I doubt you will find one for it. Simplest way to tell for sure is to pop the cover and see if there are 4 little gears in the middle (2 spider gears, 2 axle gears). 4 gears plainly visible is open, anything else (closed case, complicated mess of parts etc.) means limited slip or locker. Should probably pop the cover to drain the old oil anyway. After 23 years and who knows how many miles, it could use some fresh lube.

Uhhh, yeah... Rock rash from head light to tail light, most of which will buff out, and pretty much destroyed driver's door.

The 08 pow wow we had four of them.

Heckuva place for the cap to blow off the pressure tank, causing the water to boil out even though the temp was well within normal operating range. Refilled and got on my way.

The difference between the engines is not that great. Less than 15 hp. Torque peak is a bit higher in the rpms. Did the 93 have the same size tires? Gearing? same type of transmission (auto/stick)? Is the Renix you're used to running the way it should?

The 8.8 has a flange for the drive shaft to bolt to. I believe the Exploders use 1330 series u-joints, so you can either get an adapter u-joint, or a custom drive shaft. Old Toyotas also use a flange, and 1310 u-joints, but I doubt a Toyota flange adapter is a straight bolt on to a Ford axle. And the Exploder 8.8 is about 1.5" narrower than a Jeep axle.

Update: I got the new to me axle in, decided to go back to the chevy drop shackles for a bit of extra lift so it doesn't look like I'm squatting when loaded up. Put the shock mounts near the top of the axle to allow full droop, while acting as a bump stop before the tires go into the sheetmetal, reusing my old shocks. IIRC they are ment for a Toyota Tundra. Had to get some new brake lines and hoses as well. I have driven a few hundred miles with the new rear drive train and suspension set up and all seems okay. Took a Dremel to the front fenders to finish my final clearance issue, and took her for a shakedown run at JeepSkool yesterday. Didn't really beat on it, and let my 13 year old drive some of the stock trails. Attempted the Ultimate Adventure Mean Green, and went full side into the rock face :fs1: Got some rock rash on the front fender, buckled the door in to the point that the window inside it exploded shooting pieces of glass out the slit in the top of the door, and put a dent in the B pillar. Door handle is busted, mirror came off again (but is no more damaged than it already was), and then as the rear wheel climbed onto a rock, the rear top corner of the bed came up and slammed into a rock overhang. Also have rock rash on the bed side right up to the tail light, but somehow the lens survived. Door will need replaced, everything else will be okay. Or maybe some bondo on the B pillar. Just checked the weather forecast and I will leave the tarp over the door for the week, to go wheeling Cable Creek with the current door. Rain Thursday and Friday, but partly sunny and no rain for the weekend. Next week some time I will get a new door, and will be done wheeling for a few months. Upcoming plans: Custom built (by me) aux fan controller. Dual diaphragm brake booster upgrade. Some sort of front fender flares. Stock? TJ? Tube? Rear Aussie. Real tires. Re-gear to 4.10. Pictures of the damage coming up in a few days. Here's the ones I have of the trip (most were taken by Sarah):

I don't think the 4 cylinder ones qualified for the C4C program.

Weight distributing hitches work great on flat terrain, but when going through a dip it wants to pull the rear wheels up off the pavement, when going over a hump it will make the rear squat as it tried to pull up the front wheels and trailer. I have seen a Silverado with a 26' camper and weight distributing hitch not be able to go over a raised rail road crossing because of this. The front wheels went up the hill, and then the rear wheels had no traction because there was no weight on them. The hitch tries to keep the truck and trailer level relative to each other no matter what, individual axle weight be damned.

His first post says he's currently running 30x9.50, but want to move to 31" tires.

This is Toby. Found him as a stray at an estimated 7 weeks old.

I believe 4.10 gears will be sufficient, and they can be found in most 4cyl Cherokees and Comanches. Front axle from either will be a direct bolt in, rear axle from a Cherokee would have to have the shock mount and perches cut off and new perches welded on. From a Comanche would of course be bolt in. I believe a front axle from a Grand Cherokee or TJ Wrangler will bolt in also, but rear axle has a *bunch* of stuff on it to cut off because they are a coil sprung 5 link, IIRC. Don't waste your money on a D35, but instead get a 29 spline (97 and newer?) 8.25, or better yet if you can find a good deal, a D44. The 27 spline 8.25s use the same housing, so look identical on the outside, but the shafts are only marginally bigger than a D35. A Ford 8.8 out of an Exploder is also an option, plenty strong enough, but it is a bit narrower than a Comanche or Cherokee axle, and you need to either adapt the flange plate on the axle, or the end of your drive shaft to hook one up to the other. If you currently have a D35, be aware the nose on an 8.25" is an inch longer. Either get perches with multiple holes like from Ruffstuff Specialties to allow you to move the axle back if needed, or check your drive shaft engagement into the transfer case to make sure it can go in another inch without issues. And if you don't already have them, get trailer brakes!

Shock mounts welded to the axle instead of using the original ones underneath the springs, U bolts pointing up instead of down, using XJ spring plates. More down travel, less up travel keeping the tires out of the fender flares, and allowing a bit more flex as it turned out the up travel was not limited by the shocks (it is now), but by tire contact against fender. Also gained 3" ground clearance underneath the axle just inside the tires. I did the usual fork lift test, and have had quite a few road miles on it, but no real world off road testing yet. Oh, and I put the Chevy drop shackles back on so the truck doesn't squat when loaded. Unloaded it has a bit of rake, loaded it sits level. Add to that the taller springs (seem to be 1" taller than stock specs, 1" less than 3" lift springs) and I got a total rear lift of around 8". Still running 6.25" up front, and fixed the clearance issues up there with selective removal of sheet metal. Still have not finished tweaking the front suspension (control arm lengths), but I'm getting close.

Whenever feasible I used to soak rusted stuff in a tub of ATF overnight. Worked way better than WD40. I have since found PB Blaster, and it has never let me down yet. And most things I have used it on don't fit in a tub of ATF easily, like about every bolt on my 22 year old Jeep.

Here's the one I got:

With that much coolant in the oil, it's a safe bet all bearings are shot as well.

And the background over the roof line is distorted... What a joke. Rob L. The distortion you speak off is a by product (artifact) off image compression like jpeg.

Jeepskool this weekend for a shakedown of the new rear drive train and suspension set up, then Cable Creek Adventure next weekend. After that I'll be done until better tires and/or rear locker. Snow wheeling on half bald ATs won't work too well. And just got an email from Joel at Treadwright. ANOTHER 4 to 5 weeks before the 33x12.50s may finally be back in production. Can't hardly wait!

I had to edit my text a bit, because as a non-citizen, I do not actually have a right to vote, and don't technically have a representative. But I still sent off an email, as I do live in the USA and this does affect me as I'd like to make it out there at some point in the future. Too bad we have a new guy in there, because I personally knew the last one :(

Advance has the pumps, I imagine Carquest, NAPA and Autozone do as well. If you go to the Advance web site you can order one that comes with a new sock for less than the pump alone in store. The sock by itself is around $10.

It's also possible the sock on the pump is clogged up. Especially if he replaced the pump without replacing the sock. Only way to tell is to pull the pump. The sock should be white. If it's brown or grey, replace it. If it's full of crud, replace it. Actually, you're supposed to replace it any time the pump is out of the tank for any reason.

Friend of mine sold his bike after five (5!) friends of his all either died or spent time in the hospital from individual accidents in a 3 month timespan back in the 90s. Swore he'd never ride again. Two years ago he bought another one :nuts:

Sure sounds like a frozen motor. Only way to tell for sure is pull it and check it.