mvusse

The only specs I found for a 5.0 stroker bored out just slightly more than .060, but even at .060 you need to have the block checked. The rest came from an offset ground crank giving more stroke.

I tried to get a turkey with my F100 once. 8 turkeys went under the truck between the front wheels. 3 came out between front and rear on left side, 2 on right side, and 2 out the back. Not a single one was injured. Coworker got a deer with the 16' box truck. Straight head shot. We had tenderloin for lunch that day :D

That would definitely have helped me get through last night, but I've been clean since 93. Good enough record to try to keep going.

I used spring perches from Ruffstuff Specialties. They are a lot longer than stock ones, reducing axle wrap. They also sit a bit higher above the axle tube, though. Add to the Ruffstuff perches the thickness of the spring pack, the diameter of the axle tube and the thickness of the stock Spring under perches, and they will give you almost 6" lift over wherever the truck sat SUA. I first did a SOA conversion with my D35 which survived wheeling with 33s. What finally did it in was a bent drive shaft messing up the pinion bearings. Since I left the SUA perches on the axle I used square ubolts over top of the springs down through the original spring plates below the axle, and used the shock mounts on them. I now run a 8.25", again with perches from Ruffstuff, but also shock mounts from them, with round u bolts from below the axle pointing up and through spring plates I got off a Cherokee in the local Pull-a-Part. After I had the axle under I lifted the @$$ up to let the wheels hang, and then loaded it up with a bunch of neighbors to compress the springs to measure where I wanted the shock mounts welded on. I'm using shocks meant for a Toyota T100 in the rear, the part number is in my build thread somewhere. I tacked everything on with a 90A wire feed welder, then took it to a welding shop to have it permanently burned on with the largest stick welder I've seen in my life for $20 or so. My spring travel is limited by my shocks both up and down. If I had thought it out better I would have gotten longer universal shocks (I couldn't find any OEM shocks longer than the T100 ones) and welded the mounts on a little lower for more flex, although I have plenty. I may still do that next year. To use the extra flex I might have to cut the rear fenders, and it may actually over compress the springs. My set up looks pretty good sitting one 33s, paired up with a front suspension consisting of 4.5" coils, 1.75" blocks, adjustable upper and lower control arms and an adjustable track bar. But it is quite a high step to get into it. I also use chevy drop shackles in the rear for a bit more lift, giving the truck a bit of a rake I'm okay with. I was not okay with the squat I had when loaded up with camping gear with the stock shackles.

But what is the question. And I drank Mt Dew all night. Was DD for three 13 year olds...

Where are you at/from. In the states and Canada Cherokee would most likely refer to Grand Cherokee, as there hasn't been a Cherokee since 2001. If oversees, what is sold as a Cherokee there, is called a Liberty here.

Just got done handing out candy. Now I'm waiting for my 13 y/o and her friends to get back here so we can go to a Halloween party.

Tested with a fork lift lifting on the rear trailer hitch. Shocks could extend 9 inches, and I do quite often flex it out to the max (about 36 inches between both axles), shackles would flip forward whenever the springs were drooped more than about 6 inches. So speed bumps would not pose a problem, but any moderate flex would have been.

Was it in a pear tree?

Looks to me like a motorized ski-bob.

I tried XJ shackles to get a bit less lift out of a SOA swap. When the suspension drooped down the shackle moved so far forward that when weight cam back on it the shackle flipped up in the forward position instead of back. XJ shackles are too short for the amount of distance the rear spring eye on a Comanche moves with suspension travel. Put the stock MJ shackles back on and everything was fine. That was about half a year ago. Since then the rear springs settled a bit and I decided I wanted a bit more lift in the rear so it didn't squat with my camping gear in the back, so now I'm using the chevy drop shackles again.

Built in rust proofing :D Also check your air filter. If you have bad blow by, it will be oil soaked. A plugged up PCV orifice will make it worse and is quite common. Valve cover leak near the fire wall is also quite common and can look like a rear main seal leak. If you were at the add mark, it would have needed 1 quart. 1 quart over 1000 miles is not too bad. 2.5 is.

If the pump is LOUD, I would definitely pull it and see what the sock looks like. I went through 3 pumps in short order, and the 3rd pump would still idle fine, but barely keep me going 20 mph and getting worse. I was 350 miles from home, in a different country and 4 hours away from the nearest store that could honor the warranty on the pump. So I dropped the tank, drained it, wiped it clean, removed the pump and cleaned the sock. I didn't replace the sock because I would be changing in another pump and new sock 4 hours down the road. Put it all back together and ran great again. A lot quieter too. Never did replace that pump yet a year and 20,000 miles later. A plugged sock on the pump will make it loud, and will test enough pressure, but will not flow enough or keep up the pressure at the higher needed flow rates when you push the pedal down. A new sock is cheaper than a pump, and to keep the warranty on the pump you need to replace it any way when you put a new pump in. Most pumps do not come with a sock (although some do). But if the sock is the problem, I would drain the tank and wipe the inside clean (hope you have skinny arms), and to do that you do need to drop it.

Running 44s on stock Comanche running gear will last all of oh, until the first mud run. Prepare to be snapping axle shafts. A built stroker can hit 300hp without a turbo or super charger. At least one member on here has. But even with 300hp pushing them, you might need deeper than 4.10 gears to push 44s with any amount of torque. You might want to look at at least 5.38 or 5.71. Possibly even 6.17.

Where did ya find this? I wasnt really looking for the Renault diesel, but I'll definately take one for that kinda money... It'd save me cash until I figure out what other engine I wanna swap in :banana: Already replied to your pm regarding this. ;)

84 diesel Cherokee for sale in PA. $600 I believe. Get it and swap the engine.

Take the drive shaft out and move both u joints individually by hand. If they are both smooth both ways, get ready to replace the axle. If not, replace the bad u joint.

Please turn off caps lock. It makes your post difficult to read, and is like you are shouting. For 35 or bigger with a 5 speed you'll want steeper than 4.10 gears. If you have a Dana 35 rear axle, forget it and upgrade. 35" would probably be the limit for the front axle without needing to upgrade it, I run 33x12.50 at 6.5" lift and cut my front fenders to clear the tires. Other option would be bump stopping, but I didn't want to limit my up travel. With 35 you may even have to cut the rear as well. I also suggest not going higher than 6.5", so you're going to have to either cut or bump stop. The cheapest lift kit for 6.5" is about a grand, like you stated, and not complete. The best lift kit for 6.5" is about double that. Stay away from Rusty's. Low quality, horrendous customer service, and having broken parts covered under warranty is a nightmare. Not my own experience, as I never dealt with them but when 20 people all post the same thing independently I start to believe it. Rubicon Express, BDS and Rough Country have a good track record. Hell Creek is a member on here and will give members a discount I believe. He sells his own 3" and 4.5" rear leaf springs and carries Rough Country components for everything else. I've never had trouble with Rock Krawler and RuffStuff Specialties products either.

I checked out their site, and their products seem well made as far as I can see from the pictures. No actual experience with them, though. And Rough Country makes quality products. Nothing bad to say about them.

So Bob, I guess that 12 step program is working at last. It seems you're finally done collecting Comanches :D

Kidding or not. That statement still holds :(

Sounds like it's not getting enough fuel. Either a plugged filter, plugged sock on pump, or bad pump.

Well, spent two hours getting the axles off, finally found my tape measure and they are the small u joints. Tossed them in the back of a Grand Cherokee, then notice IT has the same shafts, but with the larger joints. So evidently there are 2 styles of stock shafts out there. it wasn't all for naught, however, as I ran into a guy trying to get a spindle nut off (just needed the nut), so I walked back and took one off one of the shafts I had removed and gave it to him. I did get another tail gate shock for my truck cap, another new passenger mirror for the Pig (that's the third one now :mad: ) and a driver side heated power mirror for a coworker's 94 Grand Cherokee. Came across a Z34 also, but of course the hood vents were already missing.

If you want to go monster truck style with 42 or larger tires I'd suggest Dana 60 front, Dana 70 rear. As for a frame, you'd have to custom build.

Just went to the user map, and can't find Canton. Actually, where Canton should be is now Colesville. This is not just on Platial, but on all Google sites. For some reason, Canton, OH has been renamed Colesville. And if you search for Canton it points you to Massillon instead. :nuts: Other non-Google sites like Mapquest show Canton right where it should be, and don't even know of a Colesville in Ohio. I just noticed it 15 minutes ago, but the first evidence I can find dates back to 10am Friday morning, so it's been at least a few days now. So I guess I'll be off to the Colesville pull-a-part. :roll: