mvusse

$8, but I would trust a used filter from the junk yard before I trust anything made by Fram. And that's the only brand Walmart sells here.

Just to be more specific, ZJ REAR springs.

A while ago Iwas set on buying a rust free 1980-something VW Jetta diesel for $500. I saw the ad and called; was the first caller. I asked them when was the soonest i could come look at it. They repleid "How about 10:00am tomorrow morning." I got there, cash in my pocket at 9:45. They had just sold it 30 minutes earlier. :grrrr: if 10:00am is the soonest they told me I could come over, how could someone have bought it at 9:15? If they'd said 5:00am I would have been there at 5:00. Actually, probably at 4:45. Bad thing is, without that Jetta I got my Mj, and then an XJ and yet another XJ. Add wheeling the MJ about monthly and now I'm always broke.

Our engines are known for that, and most of us just live with it. Some people have made an oil catcher between the valve cover breather and air cleaner. I just replace the air filter twice a year. At $1.22 they are cheap from the junk yard. Then again, last time there someone had already snagged all of them...

Same here. 96 rust free 2wd XJ will become my daughter's (now 14). But a 16 year old driver behind the wheel of a VERY responsive throttle (reflashed PCM) rear wheel drive SUV in snow is an accident waiting to happen. Plan is to have completed a 4wd conversion with the full time (242) transfer case by then.

Been there three times in my MJ. First time was bone stock on 29" tires. Second time was 4.5" lift but still same tires. Third time was 6.5" on 33" tires. Great times. Go to Jeepskool now. It's just over an hour from home, so I go just about every month. About the same type of terrain (minus the rock quarry). Great family atmosphere, on site camping without ATVs running all over the camp ground. And if I break down, 75 miles is a lot closer to home than 400 miles, although I have never broke down to the point of needing towed while wheeling yet. Just on the way there when I had a spectacular failure of a unit bearing and axle shaft on the freeway 20 miles from home. At least now I know I can lose a front wheel at freeway speeds without much of a chance of a rollover. It was as stable on three wheels as it is on four. Still would like to check out Rausch Creek some time, and there are a few other places with legal trails in the vicinity that I had planned to check out this year, but somehow never happened. Edit; Oh, and there are a few KJs that come to Jeepskool every month as well. One is now planning a SFA swap and big tires, the others are staying stock.

Mine looked like a lowrider as well. I was towing a 1200 pound trailer with another 2000 pounds of dirt on it. Had no problem getting going, but I ran a stop sign at the bottom of a hill with the brake pedal on the floor...

The only Wrangler based pickup I know of is the JK8. Only available to NATO forces and Israeli military. Not for the general public. A magazine did manage to get a hold of 50 knock-down kits that stayed in the US. They sold for more $$$ than I bought my house for. That info is a bit dated, though. AFAIK the Dakota is being killed off as it's not selling too well anymore, and will be replaced by a Fiat based unibody p/u.

I've had ~3000 pounds of dirt in the back of my not MT MJ when I first got it. Riding 3.4 miles on the bump stops and arrived at home with a broken leaf in each rear spring. I was used to my full size Ford I had before, as well as my Suburban which could carry 5000 pounds of drywall without breaking much of a sweat. Now when I get drywall I have some plywood inserts for the bed that are even with the top of the wheel wells, which limits me to 12 sheets at a time, which is only about 650 pounds in 1/2" 8 foot sheets.

The separate bearings and races are for a 2wd axle. 4wd MJs (as well as xj, tj, yj, zj, jk, wj and probably others) all use a unit bearing, which is the "complete hub assembly". In later years (89? 90? 91?) the 2wd axles were changed to the 4wd unit bearing with a dummy shaft in it (a stub shaft with a flat back side instead of ears for a u joint).

The MJ was the only unibody truck on the market at the time. The competition was all body on frame, and thus a lot less expensive. Yes, the Comanche looked cooler, but an S10, Ranger or Dakota could be had for 3/4 the money. On top of that, Chrysler didn't want to compete against itself with two comparable pickup trucks.

I have never had to worry about it. It was just funny watching the chief of police (used to live across the street from me) push his car a few feet every two days to stay legal. The way he explained it, if it has not moved in 48 hours it is assumed to be inoperable, and thus a "junk" vehicle. My vehicles are almost always parked on my property, so no problem. Also any visible vehicle needs to have valid plates on it, even if it is on your property. If you want to "store" a vehicle without current plates it will have to be inside a building (garage), behind a privacy fence, or under a tarp. They're pretty lax about it. Small town, so they don't enforce any stupid crap like that unless they get a complaint. And the way the people around here are, they won't complain unless your yard looks like a junk yard.

Staples stocks Linksys. I could have told you about Netgear. Nice strong signal I can receive 200 feet from my house, but after three software upgrades it still dropped packets like crazy. I now run a Linksys with custom firmware for my main router, and a free Fon router with the same firmware as a wireless adapter on the desktop after it's wireless card fried. Stay away from Belkin as well. They use whatever components they can get cheapest. I've had three identical Belkin wireless cards, all three used different circuit boards with different chip sets. None of them lasted more than a year.

Local ordinance here requires vehicles parked on the street to be moved at least once in 48 hours. Local police chief bought a piece of junk Mazda pickup truck for his son. Truck broke down and he didn't have the time or money to get it fixed. Every two days he pushed it forward or backwards about 10 feet :rotfl2:

C'mon Pete, back me up here. What is it you always say about a D35?

It all depends on whether or not the cross shaft clears the ring gear. If it does, the carrier can stay in the diff. If not, the carrier has to be removed to take the ring gear off. I know on a D30 with 3.55 gears the carrier has to be removed. But that's the only axle I've ever put an Aussie in.

What rear axle? D35 -> Don't bother as it's a grenade waiting to explode. Upgrade to something better D44 -> Worth fixing, but can't help you.

In Toledo (a while ago) this girl was kidnapped and taking into a house. Girl's father goes in after her, gets kicked out and ends up being beaten with a baseball bat. When the police FINALLY show up (45 minutes after numerous calls to 911 by concerned neighbors) they charge him with unlawful entry, instead of charging the kidnappers. The girl took matters into her own hands and escaped by jumping out a 2nd story window. I mean WTF. You're going after your kidnapped daughter, the kidnappers use a baseball bat on you for 45 minutes and YOU get charged??? Something is seriously wrong in this country.

D30 yoke nut is 1 1/8", don't know about rear axle (35/44/8.25/8.8 ). Transfer case fill and drain plugs are 30mm.

Yes, JB, but he already replaced his track bar (see picture above), so he eliminated that cause. The only thing left to do is balancing, as far as I can see. :cheers: -Tom He replaced the track bar, but I wonder about the track bar bracket. Not uncommon for the hole to be wallowed out allowing the track bar to move.

The spindle nut is 36mm, not 30. I have broken many a breaker bar on those before getting an electric impact. Forget the hammer and chisel. Use your power steering as a hydraulic press: http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/unitbearing/unitbearing-1.htm

You will have to do considerable floor pan modifications to fit a chevy trans in there if you choose to go manual. A common swap for them is the 700R4. Then again, the Chevy transfer case is setup for a passenger side drop, which is the opposite of what Comanche's having. That creates, again, major modifications to the floor pan. What I'm doing is I got Novak adapters for the motor mounts and adapter to use an AX-15. This way, everything beyond the bellhousing will fit correctly with the 350. I had the AX-15 and NP231 laying around, plus found the adapter, bellhousing and all the brackets used so that kinda sealed the deal for me. My buddies boss has a ton of headers laying around so I grabbed a set of long tube headers from him (driver side is Chevelle, think the pass is Firebird). I'm in the process of putting in a new floor so everything has been yanked back out so I have no good test fitment pictures, unfortinately (new floor goes in this weekend, assuming the weather permits). I have heard that a Ford 302 will bolt into the Comanche with minor modification and you can use a Ford 5 speed manual and transfer case. The longer transmission will limit the amount of modifications you need to do to the floor pan, but you will need to make up a mount for the trans (you can just make a top plate for the bolt holes on the trans then bolt it to your existing motor mount). I haven't tried this or really looked into this too much though, so I'm not sure how easy or hard it is. Only old ones. My 1994 Suburban had a driver side drop 241.

2wd shaft is 10 to 11 inches longer than a 4wd one, not 6.

You don't even have to remove the old perches. Just weld new ones on on the opposite side of the tube, leaving the old ones in place.

Tailgate acted as a work bench disassembling a front D30.