mvusse

???? The link provided takes me to a page to shop parts by vehicle, but still needs to select engine size.

It was 9 degrees here (actual temp, not wind chill) yesterday morning, and again evening after a high temp of 16. battery in the MJ is not liking it, starter in Booger is not liking it (may have to replace again, it's only a month or so old) and Sparkles is not going anywhere being 2wd on slicks. The Pig (MJ) is not the best in snow either. My big wide road tires like to float on top of the snow and slides all over the place. 4wd can't be used when I need to be able to make turns because of the front locker.

2wd to 4wd conversion: yes, you will need a shorter drive shaft. A drive train shop can shorten your existing one. Already 4wd, going SOA: you will need a longer drive shaft. Lengthening a drive shaft is almost as much as having a custom shaft made. Find a longer shaft than you need (off a 2wd Comanche? I got mine off a 2wd Toyota mini truck) and have it shortened is much cheaper. When I went SOA I also moved from a D35 to a Chrysler 8.25". The 8.25 has a 1" longer nose, and I also used a YJ yoke that is 0.5" longer than the standard MJ/XJ one. Between that 1.5" extra, I STILL needed 1" more for a perfect length shaft, but 1" is close enough that my stock shaft still worked well enough (until I bent it on a rock.)

Off road 8" will hold the bead better, especially when aired down. On pavement, 10" allows the entire tread width to contact the pavement evenly for more even wear making the tire last longer.

A locker is a device that forces both wheels on an axle to spin at the same speed regardless of traction instead of spinning the one wheel that is in mud or on ice with no power going to the other wheel. Automatic lockers (including all "lunch box" lockers) will automatically engage when torque is applied to the drive shaft, yet allow one wheel to overrun the other wheels in turns. Selectable lockers have a switch on your dashboard to lock/unlock the axle whenever you want. They cost more. If you plan to go off road, yes. Guelph Ontario? Maybe you should enter your location in your profile. I'm in Ontario every year between Christmas and New Year's, and usually a few (long) weekends throughout the year, but stay in Clinton (highway 8 and 4 intersection) and rarely stray further your way than Stratford. Upgrading the front axle is expensive. Either you need to spend lots of money and fabrication to get it to hook up to the truck's suspension, or modify the suspension to hook up to the axle. Tow hooks cannot be bolted directly to the "frame". The Comanche is a unibody vehicle and as such the "frame" is merely a few layers of sheetmetal stacked on top of each other. The bolts would rip right through. A few companies (Custom 4x4 among them) make tow hook brackets for the Cherokee. Since your Comanche is the same as a Cherokee from the doors on forward, they will work. They solve the unibody frame problem by spreading the load over a larger area. Likewise a bumper with tow points or winch attached needs to bolt to more than just the regular bumper bracket bolts to spread the load over a larger of the frame.

Welcome to the club. Brain didn't work worth a crap today, or all week for that matter.

The only thing I can think of you can mean by "H yoke" would be the double cardan CV joint. Also Getting a slip yoke eliminator has absolutely nothing to do with the front axle or needing a CAD (Central Axle Disconnect, which is on the front axle) delete.

Depends on axle. I have an Aussie automatic locker in my front D30 and have been very happy with it. If you have a Dana 35 rear axle, you should not spend any money on it other than gear oil and brake parts until you upgrade it to something better (Dana 44 - may be hard to find, 97 or newer Chrysler 8.25" - my axle of choice as it i cheap, plentiful and plenty strong, or even a Ford 8.8" although it's a bit narrower and a bit more work to get the drive shaft to connect to it). Monstrous tires mean monstrous lift and monstrous amount of $$$ to do right. The D30 up front is limited to 4.88 gears and on those the pinion gear is so freakishly small you might lose strength. So theoretically you're limited to 4.56 gears unless you swap in another front axle. If you do go to 32" or larger tires, 4.10 or 4.56 gears are not a bad idea. Having axles regeared is not cheap. $500-$1000 per axle if you have a shop do it. It is also difficult to do right yourself if you've never done it before and required quite a few specialty tools, at least a few hundred dollars worth. Unless you have a buddy who can do it for a case of beer, you may be better of finding junk yard axles with the correct ratio and swap those in. 4.10 is not uncommon on 4 cylinder Cherokees, especially with the 5 speed manual transmission. On the flip side, I run 33" tires on the street with the stock gearing, and even though it's far from ideal, I manage. I also take it off road on 35" tires. Meaning to go to at least 4.10 gears, but money is tight and I need a garage first as I'm tires of laying in the snow working on my junk. The 242 has a full time 4wd setting that would be great for snowy roads, but an automatic front locker would kill the usefulness. It is what I mean to put in my 2wd Cherokee when I ever get around to a 4wd conversion. Welcome to the addiction. Keep asking questions.

I may possibly be up for this.

What engine? (4 cylinder or V6, count number of spark plug wires if not sure) Automatic transmission or stick. If stick, 4 speed or 5 speed? You could always try to read the tag attached to the rear axle, or pull the cover and count teeth, or see what numbers are stamped into the outer edge of the ring gear.

No rear shocks -> be carefull, especially in low traction conditions like snow. No front shocks -> accident waiting to happen.

It won;t mess up your computer, reduced back pressure will result in less low end torque and may possibly detrimental to fuel economy. It is also a federal crime with a fine of $10,000 (up from the $6,000 it used to be a few years ago). Don't get caught!

The AT ones are siped. Much better in rain, probably better on packed snow.

Title says 01 Cherokee which would be an XJ. Axle in fact is for an 01 Grand Cherokee, or WJ. 2wd. $400 :roll:

Out of a Grand Cherokee, would be a low pinion 30.

Same here. Lost my vacuum hoses three times during two trips off road. After that I went to a single piece shaft and pulled all the disconnect crap off the axle.

I used to run a Thrush glass pack on the Suburban and have one on the Comanche. Have a Cherry Bomb glass pack on one of the Cherokees and had one on my F100. The one on the F100 finally fell apart inside (outside was still fine) after 6 years. Best $20 I ever spent. Don't know about the Suburban because I don't own it anymore. Cherokee had it when I got it so I don't know how old, but still fine, as is the Comanche after almost three years. It has a few dents from crawling over boulders, though.

Mine went out a few weeks ago. Since my house had been converted to a duplex in the 70s and back again 5 years ago, there were two water heaters. I had cut the output on the second one three years ago, capped it and turned the gas off. Rerouted the plumbing to that one and got $13 scrap metal for the old one. Wonder how much life this one has left (from 1996).

Maybe it's to mount one of those cargo carriers as there's hardly any interior space for cargo.

Ummm, GOODYEAR MT/R maybe? A buddy has had those (the retreads) on his Dakota in a 31x10.50R15 for two years now and has been happy with them. Relatively soft rubber does wear fast, though.

The Renix engines use a knock sensor to adjust the timing. I do not believe an HO block can accept one. Could be wrong, though. I'm sure someone will chime in.

My tire place uses Dynabeads and have those in my 235/75R15 snow tires as well as three out of four 35x12.50R15 mud tires. The fourth one popped a bead and now has airsoft BBs as do my used 33x12.50s I paid $25 each for that I use on the street. Never a problem yet. Driving 15mph down the alley I can hear them rolling around, any faster and they stay put against the tire. The airsoft BBs sound like a rainmaker when you stop at a stop sign as they all fall down with some bouncing on the steel rim.

My first thought was that you must have used a "failsafe" piece of crap garbage thermostat (they will be stuck open to never close again if they ever hit 200-210 degrees). But then I read you tried four different thermostats of different brands. I'm stumped.

Did you get a high pinion 30, or low pinion? YJ gears work in high pinion 30 axles, TJs are low pinion. They do not interchange. Brett and Jeff? (JawzJPCustoms?)

Using the "classic car" book.