james750

yes, i believe all mj's have the pigtail in there for the clock. Then in that case it will be plug n play?

ok, so I only have the clock and the wires that come out of it, not the female connector, so does this mean that I need to get the female connector or is there one on the other side of the dash for me to plug into?

Just got a dash clock in today (BTW, Thanks Taboocustoms) and started to clean it up. Is there any way to hook up power to it to do a test to see if it works b4 I tear into the dash to install it? Thanks, James

that white one is the horn relay.

ive heard that the H4 lights are illegal, is this true?

:agree: :needpics: No title, no pics, no PROOF. :D lol.J/k

I think that I would want a theft prevention device that stops the would be thief from using the gas pedal. b/c if he really wanted to take off then he would put the mj and everyone else in danger w/o brakes and/or use the handbrake.

Colorado seems to have a never ending surplus of a$$hole neighbors :roll:.

if you have a picture along with measurements and color choice I can try to program something up as well. ;)

Yeah, thats the same slider that I have in the truck, and as Jeepco said, its aftermarket but from a dealer. Mine wouldn't move when I first got my truck, but cleaning the $#!& out of the tracks and lubing it up helped. Now with it working it still tries to jam itself in the tracks at an angle, that being said, I think your window is probably jammed in there at too much of an angle for it to open.

here is a great writeup on the procedure from MADXJ. I plan to do this mod ASAP. http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/ARbrakeBoosterUpgrade/BrakeBoosterUpgrade.htm updated link: https://web.archive.org/web/20100922090257/http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/ARbrakeBoosterUpgrade/BrakeBoosterUpgrade.htm

well, yeah, i guess so, I meant to say not a whole lot of high speed dune bashing. Lots of slick rock crawling in Moab though. Moab is THE best rock crawling ive ever wheeled

Colorado is a great place. You can see almost every type of wheeling between CO and Moab (except maybe dessert wheeling); and the wheeling in CO is absolutely beautiful. X2 on finding rust free vehicles here in CO, And as long as you wash your vehicles in the winter every month or so you shouldnt need to worry about rust starting on them. :cheers:

Aftermarket radios often attach with a "key" type "security" tab that locks the radio in place, you supposedly need special radio keys that slip by the left and right sides of the radio and then the whole unit pops out. the problem is that you can just make a short piece of metal do the same thing that these radio keys do in about the same amount of time, then they can steal your radio by just unplugging it.

thats interesting, b/c ive found 2 places online now that say to tighten it after lowering the truck or ride comfort could be adversely affected. :hmm:

ok, I just found that on the web, it also says that the torque should be 55 for the uppers and 133 for the lowers, thanks maddzz1! Also, when I raise the vehicle, should I support it by frame with the jackstands and take the load off the axle, or should I support it by the axle (still having load on the springs) with the jackstands. I know, noob question... :dunce:

Today I am installing my currie track bar and control arms. I read in chilton that the control arms only need to be tightened "finger tight", is this right? and if so, does that torque also apply to the currie setup? Thanks

At work we have one 92 gmc 2500 and one 05 gmc, both are 2500HD Sierra's. The 92 blew a tranny at 31000 and blew the engine at 116000 and is a rust bucket (thats not all of its problems). The 05 has 7200 miles and the gas gauge is already broken as is the passenger door striker, the damn thing broke right in pieces when we closed the door once this winter. It also is showing signs of rust, the tranny growls and all of the electrical is gone to $#!& (many if not all of the exterior lighting ground straps are corroded). Neither have solid axles ( I thought heavy duty trucks should have this standard. Not some IFS junk, IMHO).

what type of bedliner did you use?

That is exactly what i needed. I was able to rig up the horn to work temporarily. I think I am missing 6, and 5. could you email that manual or photo to me so that I can see it full size in acrobat. Thanks Hornbrod. James

In that case just re-gear it so that you can go highway speeds in reverse, problem solved. :rotfl2:

alright, i got it to work, in tests at least. i found that if i shove a test wire down the insulated tube the horn will work (with it grounded of course. Is there some type of special connector that connects to the contact inside of that tube?

ok, thanks. does that go for the uppers with the fork type end as well?

ok, just got my new currie control arms in the mail on Friday. does the adjustable portion need to be facing forward or back? Thanks James

ok, looking at that wiring diagram, it says that the horn button needs to be grounded (I am assuming that is what one of the prongs are for) and a black wire needs to be run to the horn brush ring (assuming thats what the other connector is for) what (and where) is the horn brush ring?