james750

yeah, i found out about the ignition on thing way b4 i started working on it. I really think this problem has to do with the fact that nothing is hooked up on the back of the horn button, my question now is, what is supposed to be connected to the back of the horn button? BTW, thanks for that wiring guide minibeast, its helped a ton so far!!! :bowdown:

check out this link, it tells how to do the odometer rollback yourself if need be. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=921205

Just replaced the relay about a week ago, it was the first thing that I did, its still a no go. :hmm:

I thought that the horn was supposed to be operating with power through the column, not from direct wires run from the button to the horn. I believe that the horn in the truck is all wired up, i just don't know what needs to be wired from the button and where it needs to be wired to.

No it doesnt blow at all. There are 2 connectors sticking out of the back side of the button assembly that do not touch anything, so nothing is connected, though if i hook up wires direct to another horn laying around the button will work.

ok, Ive been working on my horn lately as it hasnt worked since i got the truck. I replaced the relay and its still a no go. what needs to be hooked up in back of the horn button (functioning) on the old style non 3-spoke steering wheels. pics of back of horn button would be helpful. TIA

I think that this question is relevant to this thread... My fuel gauge (huge one in place of tach) will vary by up to 1/2 of tank depending on if I am going down or up a hill and how hard I am on the gas, would that be a bad sending unit?

yeah, its relly loud in mine too. I have it [whinning] in ALL 4 of the XJs i have and have had it in all 6 of the xjs i have had (including in the MJ w/ a brand new pump). As long as its not a growling or grinding its probably ok. I would get a pressure test done though just to be sure. [/i]

I had my pump give pressures all over the chart when it was going out to where at one point it stalled. Luckily it never stranded me (on that pump at least). For me though it would be really low on power in the low end the all of the sudden jump and take off (not literally). my new (2nd) pump was defective though and it just died instantly after about 1mo use. But my properly working pump now still whines when I'm at low speeds after it warms up, but i wouldnt call it a "growl".

New MAP sensor took care of a lot of my idle problems, but in my case it lowered the idle so idk if it would help your problem.

Looks like the oil pressure is running a little high hornbrod! :D

@Taboo I saw those D30 axle shafts on your fs page. are they by chance for the 2 piece vac disco 30?

UPDATE: I ended up putting some C4x4 tow hooks on and sandwhiching the brackets between the bumper/frame. I found out that the ones with shackle tabs have A LOT more reinforcments behind it and mine can't hold up to that. As far as the bumper holding up, it did absolutely fantastic. I hit a deer at about 40mph at night (snowstorm, whiteout conditions) and there was almost NO DAMAGE. I was amazed. I did bend the right headlight guard about 1". but it went right back into space with just a comealong. I am very pleased, this bumper will work well until i am ready to go to a winch setup. 8)

ok, My last question is: Can you unscrew the odometer from the old cluster and put it in the new cluster?

I would go with option 2. I didnt know that there were any models w/o power steering/brakes. :hmm:

ok, thats what I thought, I'm guessing that the tach readings come from the ECU to the cluster?

Ok, I know that I need to change the oil pressure and temp sensors and its pretty much plug and play. But I will be going from no tach to tach, is that plug and play as well or do i need to get some sort of sending unit to make the tach work? Thanks James :cheers:

ok, got the whole set out, next i want to look at removing the lock cyl and diagnosing the problem...

next question regarding this problem... when i bought the truck the female side of the latch was unscrewed and laying in the floor of the glovebox. i looked at the male side and one of the posts that engages to latch shut is stuck in the closed position. whats the first step in fixing? TIA

ok, got the key to work. it took me some jiggling as well to make it work... but i put some dry powder graphite lubricant in and now it turns smooth. that seems to be the secret for all of stiff lock cylinders

:jump:

which key fits in the glove box, ignition or door? i tried both but none seem to work. maybe the truck went through an ignition lock cyl b4 i bought it, in that case it would be on its 4th. :eek:

IIRC some had the amc 20 but I'm not 100% sure though.

he didnt choose his name! :nuts:

Soooo. Whats the reserve? :chillin: