james750

Brand new BDM exhaust. so I don't think that it is the CAT

Ok, this problem has been getting more and more annoying since April now. I have been getting a rattle when I start up/ power down the mj, when I let off the clutch, and when the rpms drop below 700 rpms, I als get this rattle when the truck is off camber (and idling),when I hit bumps, and when I turn left at high speeds (its turned into more of a growling when at speeds though), So far Ive replaced both unit bearings, u joints, trac bar, tie rod, and control arms to fix this, but now it has become apparent that it is not related to suspension/steering components because it happens even at an idle now. Ideas??????????????????????????????????????????????????/ :headpop:

ok, now that makes sense, it was after I broke a ujoint, the outer stub shaft was installed, just the inner shaft was out.

Ive had the pleasure of 200+ once in a lambo diablo, it was quite a thrill to say the least! :D

he has an early series 2wd front axle beam, or a newer series front axle beam. these beams use a 4wd hub with 4wd brakes, BUT instead of an axleshaft, they have a stub shaft in them. without that stub shaft, the wheel bearing would fall apart and you'd lose the wheel and it could kill you (similarly, this is why you NEVER drive a 4wd jeep without the axleshaft installed). Drove mine for close to 800 miles w/o an axle shaft. :nuts:

you know, my dad mentioned I should take a picture of the contraption but i decided not too b/c i wanted to get it back together fast, Ill rig it up again tomorrow and take some poser shots, man I am regretting not taking pics now.

UPDATE: tonight my dad helped me out with this and we ended up getting done, I picked up the zj tie rod and plugged it in, my dad came up with a great idea to get that axle centered (we used a 6 foot clamp and took it from the axle to the tow hook and clamped it together. that let us get the control arms in then to finish it out I plugged in the oil and temp senders (found them at Napa finally) and plugged in the guage cluster, I think Ill take a few days off the mj b4 I do the UCAs.

Just go to your local parts store and get them. Tell them you have gauges not idiot lights. Checker and carquest both said that they don't have them. Checker had both of the ones for an idiot light cluster while carquest had neither of them. Ill try Napa tomorrow.

Having a difficult time finding the sensors, does anybody have part #s or a know where I can get them?

ok, got it adjusted (don't have a handheld, so I just guessed that it should be idling a little below 1000 rpms). all the way one way is 4 cyl, and all the way to the right idles at about 2000rpms, Its right in the middle.

ok, pulled the tach, there is a plastic piece on top of the circuit board that has a phillips head in it, is that the potentiometer that I am supposed to adjust? If so, how much do I turn it to turnit from a 4cyl to 6cyl and in what direction?

bump

Got my new cluster in last night, still don't have the sending units so the oil and temp doesn't work. But the volt gauge reads at about 16 that seems pretty high. And the Tachometer reads really low (idles at about 200 rpm) I read somewhere on here that there may be a adjustment on the tach (I have blue and white guages). Does my cluster have that and if so where is the adjustment located?

I found one out of a 93 zj with the v8 that has the hp30, will that one work?

Yeah, I'm pretty sure I have to replace it, there isnt any way to repair a tie rod and have it still be safe is there?

Thanks for the offer! I may have to take you up on that if I can't get it up and running by next week. Right now the search is on for a cheap tie rod locally that I can plug in to make it work until I upgrade that to currie setup as well.

yes, I ALWAYS have it up on stands when doing any work on the mj (or any vehicle for that matter) whatsoever. This leads into my next little problem tonight: Got the axle to move forward by jacking up the right side and just pulling on it a bit, installed the control arm, done. Went to do the same thing on the other side and a seal failed in the jack (holding the axle only) and it came down and the jack hit the tie rod and sent it on a one way ride to crapville. So now the driver side is still not lined up, and I need to get a tie rod b4 it can be driven again (and this is a DD) :wall: :headpop:

what do I strap it to?

three ppl on it, it don't budge! pushing doesnt seem to be the answer

I'm about to lose my mind with this bolt on install, so far I am 2 weeks in and still don't have the arms installed. :roll: Finally got all of the tools I needed to do the install, bolted up the back end of the lowers and went for the front, and it appears as though the axle has moved back about 2 inches on both sides in the past weeks, and I can't get the arms to line up in even there lowest setting, I set a stock one next to it for comparison, and it wouldnt even fit in the slots anymore either. What should I do to get the axle moved forward?

Nice looking sliders. If your up for it I might be interested in buying a set from you!? :brows:

ok, plugged it in and.....it works...except that about 4 of the cells in the screen do not work, thats fine though b/c it was a gamble on it working anyway. I guess that I'm looking for another one out of an 89 as the 90 design does not look like its light output is as good as the 89 due to the bulb being recessed from the back of the panel.

I have an 89 pigtail going into a early 90 (manufactured 10/89) so I think it will be plug n play. I wonder why they quit with led and dimmer in the 88 and on, that seems to be a better clock than the backlit ones...

ok, went to install my currie control arms last night, and the new bolt/nuts from currie will not screw onto each other, they will screw on about 1/2 way down the nut and just stop, and all of them are doing that, is this normal, and what do I need to do to get these to work?

Side impact in center of car that forced the front passenger side into a guard rail. Later when the police were quickly trying to clear the accident from traffic they pushed the back end, no way that could be caused by anything as big as a truck b/c the 2 marks are 2 low, if a truck hit with a brush guard it the marks would be above the bumper. OOOOOOOOOOOORRRRRRRRRR, That being said it could have been a bad ending to a high speed chase.