james750

yeah, on the vw you can just shove a pry bar underneath the trunk opening (even if locked) pull up about 1/2 inch, it pops and ur in w/o any damage to the car thankfully. i guess if they were going to take it its better than popping holes in the tank

ill probably get one of those b/c this is the spot where the f250, camper, boat, and vdub and its out of sight from the house and are easy targets. the f250 has locking tanks b/c about 5 gallons were stolen out of it about 2 yrs ago and i thought that having the trunk locked in the vw would be enough deterent but i guess not. its sad how low ppl will go for a few gallons of gas these days. :cry:

Walcott's shop is hella cool too. I just put in a Cobra 29 and a Firestik tunable tip (it screws in and out) 4' antenna on our pos Dodge at work and I think that is one of the best setups for the money. On the 102" antennas I would get stainless steel, not fiberglass (they like to split after a while) and they can be bought at Radio Shack. Keep in mind that if you go on many trail rides, that antenna is not very popular, and in some cases not allowed. :mad: Why are the 102" not popular and/or not allowed?

SUCKS, i have been dealing with problems with the vdub starting the last few days, ive been thinking that it was carb probs b/c its had them for years. i got my dad to help me out this evening with it, sprayed some jump start in it and it fired up for a second, but i didnt see any gas flow. i just filled it up last week so that was fine i had thought, but NO. BONE DRY, someones been stealing gas, but ive been locking it. hmmmm, someone had to have some knowledge to know that a pry bar will pry the hood open right away and then the gas tank can be drained easy that way. put a gallon of gas in it, it fired up and i drove off. I HATE GAS THEFT!!!!! :mad: :headpop:

MVUSSE: can you give me a brand and model or something of that 11 footer cb antenna, i want to get a long antenna like that to see if I can get some good range with my cheapo cobra 19 ultra III

Brand spanikin' new ball joints are in it right now. What do i want to look for when the wheel is turned? i thought it was rather strange that the clunking noise only came while i was turning left. but maybe not.

They looked ok to my untrained eyes. Ill post pics tomorrow to see and make sure. :hmm:

the shifter knobs are made out of a thermal plastic, so heat does not affect them, similar to pool balls. You must have some bad luck with the knobs b/c ive never had one break.

I'm getting a clunking when turning hard left and when hitting bumps. I get wobble when i hit a bump at high speeds. the steering seems pretty loose. any ideas. I'm thinking track bar but want more opinions. thanks

If your talking ignition lock cylinder you need a lock plate compressing tool.

I saw a pretty cool cb antenna mount on quadratec that attaches to the torx bolts on your fender mounts, i contacted them to see if i could get one duelled with a 48" firestik to make a pretty darn good CB combo, still waiting for reply.

yeah, i see where CO2 has its benifits for sure and I'm looking at having you guys getting me a 20lb kit goin. but for things like lockers, ExtremeFlow OBA setup is :drool:.

get ExtremeFlow OBA (belt driven) its the most amazing oba setup ive ever seen, better than York, CO2, etc. check it out here

at least not until chryco loosens its grips on jeep. its time for it to go off on its own IMHO

the hookup is behind the shoes, not on the drum. How do u loosen the adjuster on the shoes?

yeah, i used search, but that doesnt answer my question, i know how its hooked up, i just don't know how to remove it. do i need to remove the shoe? how do i disconnect the cable from the assembly? and if i do need to remove the shoe, how do i do it?

no problem, always happy to help when i can. :cheers:

Ive started doing my rear parking brake cables. i pulled the drum and found where the cable connects but have no clue from there on, i think i need to remove the rear brake shoe. But i don't know how. any info would be of great help, if anyone has pics (with descriptions) or a how to it would be of help as well. As always, thanks in advance

There are 5 torx bolts on the radiator cover, and 4 nuts on the header, one of the torx holds on the hood release catch, remove that cover and there is access to the emblem(s)

ok, then yours has nuts on the back. just remove the cover on the top of the radiator cover (thats right a cover on a cover) that blocks the bolts on the header panel. ill take pics and repost.

it depends on if it was applied with 3m sign tape or foam tape. with foam tape you can just pry it off with a screwdriver. if its 3m sign tape you need to use a heat gun to soften the adhesive and use mineral spirits to neutralize the adhesive.

I got the same response :roll:

I need to inquire with tomken about letting them use my truck to make their lwb sliders. after all, they're only a 2 hour drive away and they are close some of the best wheeling in CO

which year did they start going to the dual diaphram boosters? :chillin:

do you have swb or lwb jackel. tomken, motion and rocky-road's will ONLY work on swb trucks. ;)