maddzz1

:agree: Radiatorbarn is the way to go, All metal for the same price as the one from Napa that has plastic tanks.

I'm guessing CPS Correy. Mine has done this a few times and the unplugging trick has always worked so far. Is the expensive CPS the OEM one?

:agree: Couldnt really understand the post

When you replaced them did you use the replacments from a 97+ XJ? If not, they are thicker than the older ones. That what I used on mine.

Yep, and Thomas broke alot of records on the way to the cup this year too. Highest save% reg season and playoffs Most saves in a playoff year Most saves in a stanley cup final. Plus we got to beat Montreal and get revenge on Philli in the playoffs too.

Sorry for your loss, Jeff.

Congrats bro. :cheers:

Also, The insides of the newer style doors and the door panels won't fit in/on the older doors.

IIRC, the ballast resistor only comes into play in RUN. IN start, it is bypassed. So if the ballast resistor was bad, the problem would be opposite, no? Rob I'm actually a little confused now, because when I turn the key to run I hear the pump prime (pump is loud, which is the reason for the BR) but once I start the truck it quiets down but then the keys turns back to run and it remains quiet. :dunno: So now I'm not sure

Possibly the ballist resistor. Doesnt it cause the voltage to the fuel pump drop once the truck starts? Maybe its dropping too much because of the ballist resistor goin bad?

Why are none of your posts being ignored? I don't understand. You'll notice that due to our small community the board has ALOT of ups and downs as far as board traffic goes. The board will be very busy for a few months with lots of new members and posts and then it will slow down for a few months with little of each.

Don, Is this the dog that smokes? If so, he may be able to catch a few if he quits.

I like the hood vents. Did you make them? Are there drip pans?

The Laredos were and I think some of the chiefs were too. For other models I think you could ask for it as an option. I think any option was available for any model if you were willing to pay.

The headlight switch itself could be bad too. You have to pull the knob off then there is a button up under the dash to get the switch to release. Try swapping it with another one if you have a parts truck or a friend with an MJ or XJ that you can borrow one from.

One of them stayed the same and one changed in 90. the uppers stayed the same lowers changed to 3161 for Moog part #. 3137 is lower and 3134 is upper for Moog for your 88

I agree. I always try to as little, if any, damage as possible. And if I do remove something I don't need I always leave it in the car, not on the ground.

THis was on a site my 3yo was on. Thought it was a little strange for that age. http://www.myanimalgames.com/animal/185 ... Bunny.html

I have read that if the pan has never been off they can be EXTREMELY difficult to budge. Try getting a small putty knife (flat, but wider than a screwdriver) and tap that in with the hammer in a few different spots and pry gently.

I think I remember Jeepco sayimg he had to pull his cluster to find his. Actually, mine was behind the cluster, here's a pic I took when i found it: Here you can see the cluster partially removed:

The plug for mine was actually stuffed down near the power/comfort switch.

If your old one had all idiot lights you need to replace the temp sender and the oil sender with the ones for gauges. If your old cluster had gauges but just not the tach then just swap the clusters.

Did you put the elec fan in yourself? I thought the elec fan only came stock if you had AC? My 89 doesnt have AC, so no elec fan.

Nice score. I never new the MJ came with a rear wiper :D

http://scoop.today.com/_news/2011/05/20 ... r-accident One of my favorites back in the day.