maddzz1

I ordered a RE trac bar from them and received it very quick. No problems.

I was wondering if that chart was right, Don. It was listed as 90-92, I figured they might have changed with the HOs

You should still mask off the paint around the trim to prevent any damage , ie: scratches , while removing the trim :brows: . And double tape for extra safety ;) . Some clips are a pain . Slightly on topic , I wonder how hard it would be to convert to the new style XJ rubber moulding . I know I saw it in someones build somewhere , but not the process . Probably just a matter of trimming the tabs for the old clips . Thought I'd throw it out there if your not stuck on OEM . This is my plan when I replace my windshield.

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/ste ... /1220.html Constant 12V+ Red/White Switched 12V+ Purple/White Ground Black Illumination Blue/Red Dimmer Red/Black Antenna Right Front Front Speakers 5 1/4" Doors Left Front (+) Gray Left Front (-) Yellow Right Front (+) White/Red Right Front (-) Brown/Red Rear Speakers 4" x 6" Side Panels Left Rear (+) Gray/White Left Rear (-) Brown/White Right Rear (+) White/Black Right Rear (-) Brown

Glad to hear you solved it. And thanks for posting the fix.

http://www.torkspec.com/torkspec.aspx Type in the part and choose your vehicle and it will tell you the torque spec. You can also set up pages to log maintenance and get reminders for maintenance, like oil changes and stuff.

I don't think the wiring to add the ballist resistor is there. Without changing to a later wiring harness I don't know how you would add one, unless it could just be spliced into the correct wire.

Look here: http://www.buickperformance.com/glassremove.htm

You need a special tool. There are clips underneath that you need to slide. Harborfreight should have the tool

I agree. I would go with the HD double share trac bar. I bought a used rubicon express adj trac bar from someone and he had the HD bracket with the regular trac bar, so I ordered the double share trac bar to go with the bracket. I will just keep the single share one for a future build.

Nice find Jim. Is that a hole over the slider window? looks like it had a cargo light. If it is, you might want to fill/cover that hole some how.

Looks like a good project starter. I would def check and see if the floors are rotted away since it has no doors tho.

Here you go: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=8325

I would try to get the fittings you need and try doing it the regular way and see what happens then.

I'm confused at how you bench bled the MC. Did you run some lines out of the MC and bend them back into the top of the MC and keep them below the fluid?

Fuse Panel:

Next time it won't start unplug the CPS connector (3 plug connector near the firewall behind the intake) and plug it back in. Then try to start the truck. This happens to me sometimes.

Sorry to hear that bro. How is the daughter doing? That must have been very traumatizing for her. I hope she wasn't trapped like that for long.

This is what your dist block should look like. The arrow at the bottom with no words is the port you block. Lines should run like this with rear prop valve eliminated:

I would rather go with the new one than spend half the cost of the new one to repair one that is 20 years old.

You should be able to bring it to a driveshaft shop and have it shortened and balanced. The 2wd shaft will be longer than what is needed for the 4wd.

If the donor is a 98 they are both HOs

Just double check the years. Alot seem to say they will fit the renix and HO years. The collector pipe, where it connects to the down pipe is angled different between the renix and HO years. One points almost straight down (i think the renix) and the other angles toward the drivers side (like the one shown in your link)

Very nice truck. I am jealous.

I read somewhere to use a pitman arm puller/ tie rod end puller.