maddzz1

Maybe there is a screw or something on the slider. Did you try having someone else sit in the passenger side and help slide it?

I would do exactly what you plan to do, then if they still want you to pay, I would just not pay it unless: 1. your state works with michigan which will cause your license to be suspended for nonpayment 2. you drive in michigan often I have a ticket from virginia from 1998 that i refuse to pay because i feel i was not guilty. BUt the state trooper saw out of state plates and figured i would pay it since i would have to go to court to fight it. But rhode island does not work with virginia so it never affected my license.

Where I live (rhode island) if a car/truck is over 10 years old you don't need a title. May be similar where you are.

Is the long rod straight and the short rod angled down? or is that just a difference the ZJ and XJ?

Which combo had the 4.10's?

Rich, The camber being off i think has more to do with the lift than the axle. There is a great write up on madxj about the adjustable ball joints if you end up going that route. Great build.

Hey eagle, What kind of wrench is that thin yellow one? :redX:

congratulations man. is this your first?

Thanks all. Hornbrod, The clock being on the "double" fuse explains alot. I put a 10amp back in the clock slot and a 15amp in the dome slot and all seems good.

upping a fuse is NEVER the solution. NEVER EVER the factory has figured out what that part of the wiring needs for a fuse. whatever electronics it's powering may only be able to take so much, the wires may be very small, higher gauge wires. any way you go about it, putting higher amp fuses in place of lower ones as a "fix" is a very bad idea. just my $.02 :nuts: Sorry forgot not everyone has common sense. Yeah was not saying for a fix, just to test it to see if it actually is shorting out somewhere or if it was just to much power draw on the line fuse. If it don't blow with the bigger fuse than that means you have to much power draw for that circuit and can melt the factory wires and potentially cause a fire. Then would need to run a separate circuit for which ever thing you added. If it was too much power draw, would it have worked for 5 weeks before blowing? I didnt really add anything. I changed the factory B pillar lights to the ones taz used and I put the XJ kick panel lights in but the truck is wired for them.

upping a fuse is NEVER the solution. NEVER EVER the factory has figured out what that part of the wiring needs for a fuse. whatever electronics it's powering may only be able to take so much, the wires may be very small, higher gauge wires. any way you go about it, putting higher amp fuses in place of lower ones as a "fix" is a very bad idea. just my $.02 Thats what I thought. But I tried it anyway to see what would happen (don't worry i will take them back out). With a 20amp in the dome slot the lights are back on. here's the strange part: The clock runs off a different slot. The clock slot had a good 10amp in it but the clock wasnt working. But when i put a 20amp in the clock slot it came back on. I took the 20amp out and put another good 10amp in and the clock stopped working again.

Was just wondering what that was? I understand the registered and guests but what is a hidden user?

About 6 weeks ago I added the kick panel lights and a clock about a month before that I did the B pillar lights from taz's thread. Then last week I got in my truck and noticed that my clock no longer worked. Just tonight i noticed that my interior lights and glove box light are out also. The 10amp dome fuse was blown. I took the 10amp acc fuse and put it in the dome slot. The lights came on for a second and the fuse blew again. I am assuming I have a short somewhere. How do I fix it? Could one of the kick panel lights or clock be causing this?

Thats a nice truck. Where do you find these MJ's with low miles?

This should be impossible. The upper steering shaft is mechanically coupled to the lower shaft which connects to the steering box which bolts to the unibody. Metal all the way. Unless you don't have ground straps from the neg. post of the battery to the body, chassis, and the engine block, but you would be seeing other problems if this were true. Weird. :dunno: Hornbrod, chico mentioned getting a negative wire with 3 wires. My negative from the battery only has the one main cable. Should i replace it with one with the main negative and the 2 smaller ones? where do the 2 smaller mount too? sorry for the hi-jack but i figured it was related

Yes they did come with an optiomal roll bar. I don't think you will be able to find a new one but they do come up for sale now and then.

Before you do anything: (1) Are you aware that the MJ has a significant amount of caster angle, and when the front wheels are turned they are SUPPOSED to slant? (2) You didn't say what size tires and wheels you are running. Some combinations rub the lower control arms even with good ball joints. I am only running 235/70R/15. They have been on the truck for almost 15,000 miles and this just started and it only happens some times. I moved the wheel back and forth a bunch of times and they would only rub sometimes. So i jacked up the truck and pried up on the wheel and you can see alot of movement in the driver side ball joints and almost none in the passenger side.

Yesterday I realized that sometimes when i turn to the left my front tire would hit the control arm. When it happened you could tell the top of the tire was slanted out. When it didnt happen the tire was straight up. It turns out my ball joints are shot. Do most go with Spicer because their the OEM part? Moog? or whatever is cheapest?

Osgood seems to be back at the top of his game. With the # of shots they were putting on net it was gonna be hard to stop them.

My clock just stoppd working today. Got in started the truck and no clock :nuts:

I'm gonna go with this too. I had th same problm as bn. Rlease key to run and it would stall. Mine was actually a bad wire next to the fusible link near the battery

Motion, If they make tanks can they also make the sending units for the tanks? That would be great since they are no longer available. I'm sure you could sell alot of sending units if the company has the means to fab them also.

Jeepco, I was just going to swap in some uppers for now and do the full lift later on. Should I wait to do the bushings when I do the full lift? and just put the uppers in for now?

http://stores.ebay.com/The-UT-Jeeper_Je ... idZ2QQtZkm Good prices on control arms. Anyone ever try them?

I have read that red makes you go faster.