maddzz1

The guy that one last night had to race his wife in 1st. she had a dragster. The mustang he raced in the final looked like it was gonna lose a few races, then in the last 100ft he would blow past everyone.

The grill looks like the same style as the beijing. They say they will also have a diesel/hybrid version by 2010. That would help offset the cost of the diesel. it is supposed to get 30-35mpg. THe hybrid says 40+mpg http://www.autoblog.com/2008/02/11/mahi ... year-dies/ Also a link to the new jeep jt: http://image.motortrend.com/f/auto-revi ... e-view.jpg

Anybody watch this show? It takes some ba**s to put your car on the line after all the time and money invested. One of my favorite shows now. Makes me want to start learning more about building engines. Did anyone see last week, when the truck blew the rear end? the yoke and pinion were still connected to the driveshaft but they were laying on the ground.

Could someone post a link to some info about fuel cells. I know very little about them. What is the main purpose/benefit of one?

I think there is an optional speaker for under the dash. The smaller plug might be for that. :dunno:

I think the 1st pic he is showing us where the wires are located. He wants to know what the two connectors in the 2nd pic are.

The big one is where you plug in the kick panel lights; there will be another one near the driver side kick panel too.

The MAP sensor is on the fire wall. and the MAT sensor is mounted in the intake on top of the engine on the drivers side. This link has pics: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm

That is the heater control valve. You can replace the whole assembly in one piece it the tee thing is bad too. http://www.teamcherokee.com/AC_and_Heating/index.html

My friends father actuall has the red ryder bb gun

I think the xj ones may be longer and interfere with the rear axle. If you only use it for wheeling you could mount it in the bed.

This stuff pisses me off. How can they stop producing parts for a vehicle that there is still many of on the road. Then they just assign the same part number to a part that doesnt work. :headpop: And some counter drown says "Well thats the right part. I don't know why it doesnt work. :mad:

So I don't have to run the cable all the way down thru the dash and to the transfer case? the speedo cable will just slide thru the tube thats their right down to the transfer case?

I was going thru napa and autozone looking for the mat sensor and couldnt find it. But i found something listed as an air-charge sensor that looks like it. Is this it? http://www.autozone.com/R,APP222133/veh ... Detail.htm

Can you get a pair of vice grips on it?

They pretty much ignored the fact that the part made wrong adn just said due to the age of the vehicle there was nothing they could do. They completely missed the fact that i was pointing out a potentially dangerous error on their part and that I in no way ever mentioned anything about them fixing my valve.

The tube that comes off the back of the valve cover connects to a port on your intake right infront of your IAC. The one that comes off the front of the valve cover will have a couple vacuum lines: 2 are really short and connect to your intake right infront of the one above. THe other one will connect to the transducer for your egr valve. The second part of the harness clips to the 1st part (you will see how) and has one vacuum line that connects to the air box (or gets plugged if you buy the rustys air tube). Then it has 2 more lines that connect to vacuum solenoid right behind your ballist resistor on the driver side fender. When you get the pieces, LMK and I will take some pics if you need them to see how it all goes together. I just replaced all of them yesterday when I put my new valve cover gasket on.

How much of a pain is it to change the speedo cable? Mine keeps making that annoying noise like there is a bird behind my cluster.

theres nothing from the airtube that goes to the front of the valve cover. The tube from the TB is the main tube on the air tube. THen the rubber tube that comes off the vacuum line from the purge cannister connects to the side of it and then the rubber tube from the other half of the vacuum assembly that connects to the front of the valve cover connects to the other side of the air tube. If you want to replace all the vacuum lines from the CCV system from the valve cover these are the 3 you need: http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/N ... entilation http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/N ... entilation http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/N ... entilation

thing to use to clean the carbon off the inside of thr valve cover? throttle body cleaner, brake cleaner or something else? Can I use steel wool or an sos pad on the inside of the cover?

Yeah the $38 ($42 w/ tax)is reusable. Some autozones have it in stock, out of the 6 near me, only one had it in stock.

If you want you can just replace the piece that goes on the front of the valve cover its only $20 at napa: http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/N ... entilation Or do you mean you want an air tube: http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.m ... de=PER_AIR

I am doing mine tomorrow. I bought the felpro one too for $42 at autozone. I am hoping this prevents me from having to my rear main too. What did you use to put the baffles back in the valve cover? did you find the baffle gaskets or just use rtv? I am also replacing all the CCV tubes at the same time. Both halves of the line that come off the front of the cover and the line that comes off the back of the cover to the TB.

link don't work

If it starts consistently and dies as soon as you release the key back to run then i had the same problem. Will it stay running if you hold the key forward to start? If so then it is a bad wire behind the battery next to the fusible link. After rereading the whole post your symptoms sound different than mine.