maddzz1

Is it actually overheating? or is it just running hot according to the gauge?

And as i always say: if its for free; its for me. :D

bushings for my D30. I am putting in some RE uppr control arms and want to replace the bushings on the axle. Rockauto has upper control arm bushings but i figure those are for the control arm itself and not the axle end.

I do this every time I start my truck. Does it eventually turn over or is it not starting?

eagle, i think this is thread from before http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... ht=bahamas Did you ever find out if it was an export version or run the vin number?

I found a vacuum line (rubber tube; i think its a vacuum line) that connects to the top of my front diff. (its 4wd). the line runs up along the upper control arm and up next to the brake booster. Then it just has a plastic plug in it. What is it? Is it suppose to be plugged or is it supposed to connect to something?

Has anybody switched there vacuum line to silicone lines? Is it a worthwhile upgrade if you are replacing them anyway? I am also going to switch my heater hoses to silicone when i replace them. Like these: http://www.paragonperformance.com/

Will the heat only come out the defrost too? Check the football looking thing behind the bumper on the passenger side for cracks. Check the line that run to it.

Are you asking about factory skid plates, or aftermarket? All holes for factory skid plates are already there. The transfer case skid uses "thread-serts," which are like industrial strength pop rivets with a screw thread in the center. You insert it into the hole, use an appropriate tool (there are a couple of types) to collapse the sleeve and lock it in place, and it is then a threaded hole for bolting something to. Yeah, when my old one was pulled the "thread serts" were destroyed and now i want to remount my t-case skid plate and don't have the tool to put the serts in or the thread serts and i don't know where to get them, so i am trying to find the best way to mount this skid plate. There is a great write up on this on jeep forum. Here it is: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=390638

I got a used set of RE upper control arms. When i put them in i want to replace the bushings at the axle end. Do i need to get special bushings from RE or just stock upper ca bushings for the axle?

:hmm: That doesn't look like anything I have seen on a 4.0L CCV system. He is asking about a rubber part which I believe to be the line on the forward end of the valve cover and should be able to be found in the aftermarket for much less than at a dealer. I know NAPA has them here in the US, but not sure about Norway. My bad, i thought it said 4 cylinder. You can get them from napa. You have to buy the assembly not just the rubber. I have an extra assembly because I just replaced mine that you can have for the cost of shipping. Or if you want to send the money i will pick one up from napa and ship it to you. If you want to replace all the ccv lines it come to a little over $50 from napa. http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/N ... entilation http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/N ... entilation http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/N ... entilation

Is this what you need? http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/N ... ation+(PCV)+Valve

Basically any switch you want to stick in there. But for XJs it was used mostly for the rear wiper or defroster. I used that spot to manually control my electric aux fan. :D Thanks, Thats what i thought. Did you just splice the wire for the fan into the wiring for the rear wiper? then connect to the switch? or do we not even have the wiring? I don't remember if it was there when i had my dash apart

The round one looks more like the light for the power/comfort switch. CW I forgot there was a light there. What is the option for the other switch that goes next to the power/comfort switch. Is it the rear wiper?

I think the other one might be for the rear wiper on an XJ.

Just cutting off the dam made a big difference. It seems to have broken it up nice.

I'm not sure. Which i believe is another way of saying "time to change it." Can someone explain the friction modifier i need to add to the rear diff? Is there a gear oil that already has it added? Whats the best grease to buy to put in the bearing caps and grease the u-joints after install. I am also doing the rear driveshaft.

I need to pull my axle shaft to replace the u-joint. Do I need to remove the diff cover and drain the diff before i pull the axle?

Wade if you want a set of the lights that are behind your head on the side. I have a set you can have. They werent working so i replaced them with the lights in taz's thread. It may just be the bulb tho. :dunno: How much was the shipping on the panels? I plan to order a set too.

Try this: http://www.metacafe.com/watch/456478/rust_removal_tip

2 weeks ago this happened to comanche87 too. It broke right at the bottom of the threaded part that goes into the bracket where it meets the end. It was stock. We had to get a new bracket because the piece that broke off had rust welded itself in place. We even beat it with a hammer for 2 hrs trying to get it out.

Is it possible one half of the round thing in the bumper is cracked and not holding vacuum to close the vents?

That should look good. I was reading a thread last night and the guy chopped off the top/back of his xj and added a cage and an mj taigate. looks sweet.

yeah, before the engine warms up the comp uses a pre determined set of specs

Are you just sliding the fan control down to low? or are you sliding the selector over to off too? I noticed in cars ive had where there isnt an off on the fan selector they tend to pull heat all the time.