maddzz1

Mike, if you had idiot lights before you just need to change the temp sensor and the oil sensor. Read the post a few down from this one and this: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=921205

There was a court case a few years back where a guy was charged for beating his kid witha belt. He took it all the way to the supreme court and won. They said something like it was ok because it was to discipline.

Read this;some good info: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=921205

Yes. The only thing is some have mechanical speedos and some have electric speedos. I think the electric started in 91 but not positive. What year is your MJ?

You can just swap in a gauge cluter with tach. You need to change the temp sensor and the oil sensor if your gauge has idiot lights.

When I twist it the rubber cap on the tierod end seperates a little from the tierod end( a gap opens between the tierod end and the rubber cap). So tomorrow I should torque all the nuts down? and if that don't work get new tierod ends?

When I check my tie rod and draglink there is no movement up and down but if I twist them, they will move 1/4" to a 1/2". I think I read that they shouldnt move at all but can't find the thread. Should they move?

There is a write up here for converting a D44 to discs: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/index.htm

Brother Louie by the stoties :???:

You can order new plugs from here for 1.25 each. I'm not sure if they need to be sealed but If they are supposed to be sealed you could put some RTV on them before you put them in. http://www.teamcherokee.com/Interior/index.html

scratch that I misread.

Unless there are more grounds than that one, I would go with the socket. Pm whoever said they had this problem and it was a ground and ask them which ground.

Here you go: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm

This is what the FSM says: To remove the 2 piece window exterior molding, roll the window down. Then carefully pull and pry the molding halves from the door flange(very helpful) :roll: . It says when re-installing to start with the top piece and then the rear. So to remove I would start with the rear piece then the top.

In my FSM the only ground I could find came off the front passenger side headlight harness and went back to the inside of the fender. Not sure if that is the one for the taillights too. Hope this helps.

It actually turned out to be in with the power/comfort switch.

New info: If I turn the wheel to the left and swerve to that side of the road the noise stays. When I turn the wheel back to the right and swerve to that side of the road the noise stops.

Is this the right harness:

Pull the piece completely off, then scrape off all remaining adhesive on both the rubber trim piece and the body. A heat gun and/or GOO-Gone and a sharp putty knife works well. Then clean up the trim and body with rubbing alcohol, and re-attach using 1/2" 3M double-sided tape. Thanks, That sounds easier than the other way.

I took my dash apart to see which clock harness I have and it wasnt there. Is there a chance its stuck behind the cluster or the radio. Or do I just not have one. This is what I found. I also looked for the light for my cig lighter ring. Is this the plug that the pigtail with the cig lighter bulb would plug into?

I ended up removing that little black plug on the side of the door and putting a long scredriver thru there and hitting it with a hammer.

Anybody have any tips for getting the retaining clip off. It looks like I may be able to remove the door latch and put a screwdriver threw one of the hole and against the retaining clip and hit it with a hammer. But I don't want to remaove the door latch if there is another way.

Thanks, It looks like it happened to my driver side before. And they put it back on then used two screws at the front of it.

The black molding that runs the length of the truck (the one that protects the paint from other car doors hitting the paint) is peeling off my passenger side door. What can I use to get it to stick back on? Or where can I order a new one?

Here is a write up on it, its not for the 2001 but it is probally very similar. I think there is a way to do it w/out having to change the rod. http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/te ... pgrade.htm