maddzz1

Alot of stoners drive pick-ups. Someone with a youtube acct should invite him over to the club

what's a fender washer Basically a big washer. Check this thread (CWs build) http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1230 The ninth post down (the one after the rock sliders) and there is a pic of CW holding up the sheet metal stiffener he made and you can see one in the pic

When the truck is first started it runs in an open loop mode until it warms up getting preset info from the ecu, then runs in closed loop mode getting its info from the sensors. Have you tried cleaning the IAC and throttle body. I would test the O2 sensor also. Not familiar with the 2.5 so just giving some ideas

Then you just have to drill the holes and use the bolts/washers listed above.

Try here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... MEWAX%3AIT

I believe the size most people use are 1/4" x 20 bolts with fender washers Do you still have the metal plates with the studs or did they all brake during removal?

From the 88 elec manual the: The brakes and hazards on on the same fuse. Labeled haz/stop Interior lamps are labeled Dome Inst panel is labeled Inst Lps Cig lighter, radio clock an dvanity lights are labeled radio there is also another fuse labeled ETR which is also the radio and clock Do you have parking lights? You can go here: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12734 fuse panel is on pg 6

Whats the problem? That looks like a pretty clean weld. :no: j/k

If you mean the pic Pete posted, thats just the instr. from the FSM

Same thing here. Last time I was in bed for 2 weeks. Then walked with a cane for a week. Dr finally ordered an MRI, they told me everything I didnt want to hear. Since mid march it still hurts everyday. I am refusing the cortizone shots tho and will try a chiro and PT.

Did you check the fuses since this happened? There are actually 2 fuses that control the radio. but one of them actually controls some othert stuff too. It says acc/int or something like that and one just says radio.

Yeah, in between the battery and where the relays are under the hood. There are a bunch of little wires and fusible links. If it also makes a click when you turn the key forward it could be the starter like said above. Turning the key more times may just be bumping it enough to turn the starter and start the truck.

I would get ones with the bend in them. I am looking at the ironrock offroad ones. Are there any straight ones that don't require grinding to work on our trucks?

wecome to the club

Thats sucks , man. and it had to be a 92 which makes it worse. Side story, Years ago my father was driving when the car caught fire. It was mostly the engine bay that was damaged. He put the fire out himself and the insurance company was REFUSING to pay because he put it out himself. Not sure what ended up happening, it was a long time ago.

Have you checked all the little wires over near the battery that go to the power dist center? One may be loose or corroded and not getting a good connection.

Mine starts wobbling very bad when I hit a bump on the highway, mostly the pass side tire. I have to hity the brakes to get it stop (people behind me don't like this). I think Ive tracked it down to the TRE at the pitman arm since the TRE now has a clunk and there is ALOT of play/slop in my wheel. I would check the TREs if the trac bar and wheel balance is fine.

Sounds VERY painful. and don't listen to dave, post the pics. I hope they gave you some refills on those percs; broken toes can hurt for a long time.

A friend asked me to get some recommendations for spark plugs for his Denali. It is the bigger Vortec V8

Ill be there Mike. With me, you, wayne, and kastein that makes 4 Mjs for the move.

Maybe the real reason they sold it was to make room for WFC's MJ. No need to keep the second fastest MJ.

Great story. Maybe they will put your MJ in the archives after you break the record.

Not positive, but probally the same as if it were 4WD: http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoTCseal.htm

Open on left, trac lok on right ..........pic posted by Correy (genovast)

I bled mine out the temp sender without starting it up. Just unscrew it and lift it a little, you don't need to pull it the way out.