maddzz1

Will an 86 sending unit work in other years?

In the 88 the 2.5 and the 4.0 have the same part#. In 92 airtex has a diff part# for the 4.0 no 2.5 listing, no airtex part listed for91 2.5 but 4.0 has a diff part# than 88

I was thinking maybe the stat slid a little during assembly since I didnt remove the serp belt, but I think it would leak if that was the case.

http://rockauto.com/ has them. airtex part# 1s6563 on the site click under elec-switch-relay then oil pressure switch after putting in your vehicle info

Mine does the same thing, jeff. Not sure what it ran with the idiot lights, but since I switched the cluster to gauges it always stay right at 155* to 160* (just at or over the line between 100* and 210*) I also have a stant 195* stat

:agree: Sounds like a bad/loose ground. Mine does it now and then if I hit a bump

If he did a complete HO swap you also need a sending unit for a 91-92 comanche (not made anymore) for the gas gauge to read correctly.

Here you go: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=19487&hilit=window

The 92 is an HO and the 88 was/is a renix. Did the Po also swap the engine and ALL wiring from the 92? If not, that is why the cluster doesnt work and why the fuel gauge is stuck at full. There is a vacuum ball in the front bumper, if the vacuum line for that is broken you will only get heat out the defrost as that is the default.

Does it start to run bad after it warms up? or as soon as you start it? When you first start the truck it runs in closed loop mode and uses a preset set of instructions and doesnt use the O2 sensor, once it warms up and switches to open loop mode then it runs off info from the sensors. So if it is running bad the whole time I wouldnt think it would be the O2 sensor.

Thanks, that helps with my decision.

I wouldn't choose my arms based primarily on that aspect. it takes 10 seconds with a grinder or sawzall to trim it up. :thumbsup: I think I'm gonna go with RE (very expensive) or RC (I can order thru Tom at Hell Creek). I'm thinkin I may sell my fixed uppers and get upper adj's too.

Pete, that is exactly what I was referring too. Do all the straight arms hit at full droop? Jimmy, If I decide to sell I will PM you. It is the bar for 3.5" to 4.5" lift and I have a new heim joint to replace the one thats on there.

Isnt there a TSB out there about bypassing the C101 connector for something like this?

After reading REs site it looks like I can keep the trac bar and just buy the threaded rod and HD trac bar end and swap them. But I may just sell the bar I have and replace the whole thing. For what the parts I need cost I could give someone a good deal on the bar I have and pay the difference and come out even and give someone else a good deal at the same time. I have been gathering parts for a while. Right now I have 4.5" Hell Creek packs, Re 4.5" coils and fixed upper arms, the trac bar and bracket mentioned above, and some JKS quik discos. Just need the lower arms and shocks. I'm finally getting close

I have read that some of the after market, straight lower control arms will hit where the shock mounts too on the axle and will require some grinding of this part on the axle. Does this happen with all the straight control arms or just some? This will be a 4.5" lift. Also, I bought some lift parts from someone local. After buying I noticed that it is the RE HD trac bar bracket but he has the regular trac bar (the one with the heim) instead of the HD trac bar. He gave me a new heim cause the one on their is warn out, I'm thinking its warn so quick because hes using with the HD bracket which is double share so the bolt is side to side instead of top to bottom. Would you just use this or sell this trac bar and get the HD trac bar? I'm leaning towards the HD bar.

The main difference is the way the down pipe is angled. One goes straight down and the other bends.

Happy B-Day, Pete. :cheers:

It also is not an HO engine. I agree with the $600-$700 if you plan on doing the work yourself and keeping it as a DD.

Try replacing the O2 sensor?

Definatele a great uncle and a great idea. Support her in her interest and give her the help she needs to explore it.

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm Half way down the page.

Try pulling up on the ebrake foot pad. Sometimes the spring wears out and the pedal will fall enough to put the light on. Only a few things control the light, low fluid, e-brake, and the switch jeff mentioned.

Probally just need to replace the bushings. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=8325

EGR valve?