gogmorgo

Google it, there’s quite a few news articles from 2019. I did fact check this one 🤣 Basic gist is some island had a struggling wolf population because warmer winters meant less crossing ice and less mingling with mainland wolf populations, and the moose were getting out of hand. So they flew in more wolves to augment the pack. It’s not wolves with parachutes so much as crates slung in then opened on the ground, but there were helicopters involved.

Possible heat-related voltage loss? But it does sound like a clutch problem, like it’s on its way out. Can’t say I’ve seen it on an a/c compressor but I have seen similar issues on other electric clutches. In particular a road salt spreader. Half the time it was a wiring issue, not allowing full voltage to it, but sometimes it seemed like maybe it was just full of grit, or internally shorting.

Drop it in some CLR or something, maybe… if you can even get it out in one piece!

Dying a few seconds after a perfect startup is very likely to be related to the ballast resistor, as cruiser says. In regards to your battery, obviously you’ve got an answer on it now, but for future reference, 12.01V is a very discharged battery. They’re only nominally 12V, actual full charge voltage is around 12.67V. By the time it’s down to 12.01 it’s below 50% charge. There’s also something batteries do to fool you, they’ll read somewhere between actual voltage and the charger voltage when you pull them off the charger, we call that “surface” charge. You generally don’t get a good voltage reading off a battery until you’ve thrown a small load at it to knock that down. Batteries brand new off the shelf at the parts store aren’t guaranteed fully charged, either. Although that’s not a huge issue here. I’ve seen jump start attempts blow charging fuses. The HO has two 60amp alt fuses in the under hood box, but I’m not familiar with the Renix setup. Something to look into if you’re not getting 13+ volts out of your charging system once it’s running, but look into the ballast resistor first. If you’ve got enough charge in the battery to run the starter you should be able to run everything else on the truck too.

Which gauges aren’t working? You need to swap temp and oil pressure switches to sending units when upgrading from warning lights to a full cluster. Had a previous owner not do that for me. Also if you put a 6–cylinder cluster into a 4-cylinder truck (or vice versa) the tachometer will read incorrectly due to the different number of ignition pulses per revolution. I believe there’s three year ranges of cluster, some have the ability to adjust for 4 or 6 cylinder engines.

Is there additional existing wiring for other optional switches, same as there is for factory fog lights? I know there's a couple connectors under the dash but I've never really investigated anything more than the fog lights.

I'm not sure I ever actually tried a known correct sending unit, now that I'm thinking about it. My 2.5 originally was an idiot light cluster that was replaced by the PO with a full cluster, without changing the sending units. This may partly have led to me replacing the original engine with one out of a YJ, and I would've had a spare YJ engine to pull the second sending unit from that I tried. I also had a couple 4.0's sitting around that would likely have had an XJ sending unit but I don't know if I ever tried one... think I tried to get a new sending unit but wasn't sure what to get and don't think I ever did end up getting a new one. I also kinda suspect there may be some scale buildup at the sending unit, insulating it and preventing it getting an accurate reading, but I've never investigated that either. Definitely wasn't a priority.

That’s where my 2.5 sits on the gauge. Only climbs higher when the crack in the block lets out enough coolant that it starts overheating. It’s a slow leak, takes six months to a year to get to that point. Even after confirming a new thermostat was opening at the right temp. It was right at 90°C on the thermostat housing when I checked with both my crappy tire IR thermometer and the Snap-On thermal camera at work, right at 195°F. I tried a couple different sending units I had laying around and it didn’t change anything either.

Yeah, used gears don’t always like taking a new wear pattern. You’d want to know how much backlash was in the old setup and aim to get it as close as possible to that instead of setting them up as though they’re new. A complete axle is a bit less to manage than used gears. I’d still go through and replace all bearings and seals in the used axle, you’d be most of the way to that anyway just regearing the existing axle.

Even as a buyer the global shipping program’s been hit or miss for me. Used to be a crap shoot what service they’d send your stuff with. I have never lived somewhere both courriers and the post office could deliver to. Currently my physical and mailing address aren’t even in the same town so I can’t even put both PO Box and street address on the thing, have to send stuff to a friend’s place.

Nice. There’s a parcel pickup places just across the border from me, but I’m still some distance from the border. Looong day out there and back plus the hassle of border crossings, Doesn’t seem worth it for smaller stuff… especially considering my only legal vehicle at this exact moment is once again a Lada. Hadn’t found a package service yet that ships, but if these guys are willing to actually use the mail then that’s amazing. Only reliable way for me to get stuff other than driving hundreds of km myself. Would be nice if key parts would start shipping to Canada from their eBay store, but they’ve likely got agréments with wholesalers getting in the way or something. I just haven’t found a wholesaler up here that has all of the MJ parts listed… none of them are holding inventory on it from what I can tell but most just have the initial stuff that was launched and haven’t updated to include much more.

Yes but they don’t ship to Canada from eBay.

Where are you ordering Key Parts from in Canada, if you don’t mind me asking? I guess to contribute to the theme of the thread, took my longbed down the highway for the first time in five years. 70-mile trip. Did pretty darn good, speedometer wasn’t working initially but picked back up after a couple miles. Hole in the floor definitely didn’t get any smaller while it was parked, and between shorts and not having put the carpet back in my left leg got some… we’ll call it exfoliation.

My 4.0/ax15 ZJ gets around just fine with 3.55’s on 31’s, but any time I’ve put a trailer behind it I’ve wished I had a little deeper gears, even when I just had 235/75R15 tires. I don’t remember where the carrier break is on the 44, but you’ll need a new carrier for your D30 to run 3.73 gears. Not a huge expense but still something to consider if budget’s a concern. It shouldn’t be a huge jump in RPM on the highway. Maybe 150rpm higher at 75mph for 3.73’s over 3.55’s.

I bought the rugged ridge tow hooks for the XJ about ten years ago. They definitely bolted to the front of my MJ.

Not likely. Most state programs like vehicle registration operate at or near zero profit. It’s a service the state provides. They may well be losing money on it with the added logistics of having to ship plates all over and additional need for external database access due to plate inquiries from out of state on a much larger percentage of their registered fleet than just people driving to other places.

Something I was told in school (but am only just remembering) in reference to this is a used flywheel gets worn down around the inside, but not where the clutch bolts to it. This means that a new clutch bolted to the worn flywheel has the pressure plate springs pushing further towards the end of their travel, meaning they need pushed further before they lift the clutch disc off or something. I also remember one of the other techs in the shop where I apprenticed having a hell of a time getting the clutch adjusted correctly after replacing it when the trans was out for unrelated reasons, then it went out of adjustment by the next inspection, and this time it couldn’t be made to happen until the flywheel got resurfaced. Ancillary memory, I wasn’t the one doing the work in either case. Just wish I’d remembered sooner. Not only does my ZJ’s clutch only disengage right on the floor, the pedal is also a lot heavier than other clutches I’ve got, including in my 3/4 ton GMC. I assumed it was just a ZJ thing, but now I’m suspicious that a new flywheel is going to be in my not so distant future.

I haven’t met a single indigenous person who was okay with their culture being appropriated, or a reference to someone who was okay with it. All you’re doing is making excuses to defend poor behaviour. The team at AMC that chose the Comanche name may or may not have known better. We have a bit of a history of suppressing and ignoring indigenous voices. But we do know better today and we should be able to acknowledge the mistakes of the past, whether we were part of making them or not. Jumping on someone for driving a vehicle that was given a name it shouldn’t have been given over a decade before they were born is incredibly unfair.

Saw this in a random Facebook group. That’s a Manitoba atv plate. Checks out.

I wouldn’t call it flimsy but I feel like it wouldn’t take much of a hit, and it doesn’t offer a lot of real coverage. Maybe it would help prevent stuff wrapping around the front driveshaft yoke. Kinda seems like if it actually caught a sizeable hit you’d be hung up on the thing you hit anyhow. Increase the chances of damaging the crossmember. I also wouldn’t have guessed it was a skid plate either if I didn’t already know.