gogmorgo

Weird. There’s only three tiny tacks holding the nut on. Long punch down the end of the frame and a BFH is all it took for mine.

He's an actual lawyer with a long career in consumer protection law, and all he did in this particular video was read the WV gov's press release with some very basic commentary on it. But I guess you're free to believe whatever your imagination is telling you based on things you heard incorrectly.

No, it’s the same as shifting a regular bike. Just back off a little and shift. It’s more broken chains, ripping sprocket teeth off, bending or snapping chain rings, that sort of thing. The pedal assist will contribute enough torque that you can push hard up hills and climb really quickly, but the torque needed to hold 20mph up a hill is way more than a typical bike is built to handle. You might be able to rent one for a day or so from a local shop. See if it’ll do what you want.

If you plan on using it on a bike trail, a lot of places will only allow a pedal-assist bike, not one with a throttle lever/button. Also potential limitations on motor power. Something to consider. Don’t think it matters if you’re just riding on the street. The only issues I’ve heard of anyone having with one aren’t really specific to e-bikes. If you throw max torque at high gear while going uphill you’ll probably wreck the chain and sprockets. It’s just a lot easier to accomplish with the added torque of an e-bike it you don’t gear down to go up hills.

New tires are a lot of money, I don’t know if they’d solve your problem. We ran E-rated tires on Colorados on our work fleet because the trucks often drive on railway ballast, and that stuff eats tires alive. Stock size on otherwise stock trucks, at door sticker pressure. Doesn’t seem to affect the ride quality all that much. For what its worth, LT vs P, or C, D, or E load range doesn’t strictly define a tire’s load carrying capacity. You want to look at load index. The LT tires are just more durable, more material is used in their construction. Thicker rubber, more reinforcing material. They’re heavier, and only marginally stiffer. The load index is a two or three digit number followed by a lettre. The lettre is a speed rating. As an example, I’ve got some P tires as winters got my ZJ, they’re rated 112T, or 2469lbs per tire at 118 mph. This is of course way overkill for a ZJ but it’s slim pickings in the oversized winter tire market. In contrast my summers are an LT, C-range, but with a load index of only 109S, 2271lbs at 112mph. It’s also common to see more than one rating on a tire, usually a higher weight at low speed followed by a lower weight at higher speed, like 120Q/116S. And for what its worth, the owner’s manual for my ‘91 MJ only lists optional P sizes. No load index associated, but looking them up I’m seeing P tires in those sizes have load indexes at or around 100. I think you’ll have a hard time tracking down any tires at all in your current size that are rated anywhere near that low. You can also just look at the max load on the sidewall, compare it to your GVWR.

Every word is nonsense the first time someone says it. When other people start using it then it’s part of the language. That’s linguistics 101. Getting upset over someone using vernacular just makes you elitist. Again, a considerable amount of American English would be considered incorrect by the majority of global native English speakers, and a large number of uniquely American conventions have specifically been traced to spelling or pronunciation errors. But irregardless, at no point in the video does he use “irregardless”. There’s a moment that might confuse you right at the beginning where he says “and how you could title vehicles there regardless of where you live” but if you misheard it that’s on you. Back on subject. I haven’t seen anything suggesting you could get a title from just a bill of sale through this West Virginia system. Just that you can transfer existing titles much more quickly. It’s a step in a direction though. Relying on paper documents when every jurisdiction has all this info in a computerized database anyhow is pretty backwards. Run the vin past the lien and stolen vehicle databases when you register it and call it good. Better yet post up an online service so you can check a vin prior to buying the vehicle.

Meh. The common usage of a word and it’s understood meaning within a context are what make it a word, not how it came to be or whether or not it appears in anyone’s dictionary. If you’re going to throw out “irregardless” you may as well toss the rest of the American English lexicon along with it.

The biggest thing the WJ arms get you is they’re fully boxed, don’t have the _/¯\_ shape with the edges sticking out to catch your tires. The swoop in the middle only helps so much. Most aftermarket tubular control arms will be even smaller. That’s not to say there aren’t still lots of trucks with aftermarket wheels or spacers to push the tires even further away.

Dunno what’s funnier. The Corolla out wheeling a $50k rig on 35’s, or the guy who thinks he needs to air down in low range on… a road.

Probably applies to most major US cities as well. Still can’t quite get over my trip through Chicagoland a few years back, drove about an hour from the outskirts to my friend’s shop, then followed him roughly an hour to his house, and then an hour or so leaving in the opposite direction before hitting outskirts again. I’d been assuming we’d done some zig zags, gone back and forth or around in a circle or something but no, it was more or less a straight line. Three hours to cross the metropolitan area. Craziness.

Missed that. Yeah an XJ sending unit should definitely fit an XJ tank.

Injection timing signal is controlled the sync sensor in the distributor. Sometimes called the cam position sensor. I've had a bad signal cause a no-start in my HO, not sure about Renix. In my case had radial play in the distributor shaft cause problems. I think it's highly unlikely all six injectors would fail at once. It would at least splutter if fuel is making it out of some of the injectors. Probably run with only four injectors, maybe even three. But a noid light is definitely the way to check for signal.

Fuel pump and hangar assembly from the parts store is probably an XJ unit. They're not quite right in an MJ tank. With a little creativity you should be able to rob the parts off it to move over to your sending unit, but there goes the lifetime warranty. Currently MTS is the only manufacturer we're aware of making proper sending units to fit the Renix MJ, there's been talk about it but I haven't seen an HO version released to the general public yet.

I think it does have an ashtray light, or at least a holder for the bulb. I don't have any use for an ashtray so I couldn't really tell you if it ever worked or not, just a vague recollection of it existing while I had it apart at some point. But the build info from Chrysler is a little hit or miss. They recycled the options codes on later models so their database pulls up some... interesting things sometimes. Also take a closer look at the speedometer. It only goes to around 120mph. Some of us use real freedom units, instead of clinging to the obsolete half-hazard measuring system of an oppressive monarch.

Also possible. If the pressurized side of the system is properly sealed off that shouldn’t be an issue, vacuum would keep the coolant in the radiator so long as air wasn’t getting in. But it’s definitely worth considering when replacing the reservoir.

Slowly making progress on getting it back roadworthy again. Well, driveable, let’s not get too carried away here. I need a backup going-to -town rig. Pulled all the interior back out of the bed. It’s not doing too bad considering it’s just been sitting under cardboard for the last five years with no back window in the canopy. I tossed the jute backing. Too much green powder cam out of it when I pulled it. Just mildew I think, it was dry. But didn’t seem worth keeping. The carpet wasn’t too bad either. I hosed it out, but it’ll need a good shampoo before it goes back in. Then it’s just a matter of putting everything back in, provided all the fasteners are actually in the jar that got left in the cab. Guess I probably should put the header panel back together properly too… I realized today none of the lights work because the header panel is just sitting there. One fastener on either side, none of the wiring is plugged in. No screws holding the trim on, bit of a miracle it’s all still there after 1000 miles on a trailer through a snowstorm. Kinda tough to pick up where you left off after five years when you didn’t finish the project tho. To be clear it’s not fixed yet. The rust hasn’t got too much worse in the five years since I pulled it all apart, fortunately, and I’ve got other projects in the way. This one I can still drive, so it’ll be going back together at least until a little more of my fleet is legal again. Drove it 120k back from my parents’ a couple weeks ago, but next time it’s on the road it would be good to have seats and seatbelts actually bolted into the thing. And something preventing me from dropping my coffee cup clear through the floor onto the highway would be good. That was pretty disappointing, although no mess to clean up I guess…

Yeah, no big concerns running in bypassed long term. Definitely no issues running it bypassed while waiting for another to show up if you do want it quieter.

Yeah… if you’ve installed the app on your phone and given it access to anything, they have everything already. Pictures of your ID on your phone? They have them, even if you didn’t upload them directly. They just troll and harvest everything.

You might be on to something there. It looks like there’s a couple plugged fittings on the front of the reservoir that might be helpful? Opposite the current hose. The picture’s not entirely clear. I will say it doesn’t look like a particularly big reservoir either, and it might also be nice to have a good way to see reservoir level without pulling the cap. Something else that will happen, if there’s a coolant leak in the pressurized side, it will suck air back in via the leak instead of coolant getting pulled back in. Air is thinner than water so it’s possible to pull air in somewhere that isn’t losing much coolant. But we can worry about that possibility after addressing the overflow from the rad not being below the coolant level in the reservoir. I guess I sorta assumed there was some kind of pickup tube or something in there.

I don’t think we know enough about this system yet to make recommendations on what does or doesn’t need done. We have a radiator with a cap and a clearly unpressurized reservoir. That sounds an awful lot to me like an open conversion has already been done. If the hose connected to this black tank is going to a fitting on the side of the radiator filler (where the cap is, take a picture if you’re unsure) and there’s no other coolant reservoir present, that’s exactly what’s going on here. An open conversion. If my two above assumptions are correct, there’s three possible explanations as to why it would overflow. The first, and simplest, is that’s the normal function of an overfilled reservoir in an open cooling system. Heat makes coolant expand, expanding coolant leaves when the coolant level gets too high. Its pretty easy to overfill a system when there’s no recommended level on the reservoir, or any good way to check reservoir level. If it quits puking after a few warm ups after the last top up it’s probably fine. It should stop after a while at temperature once it’s had time to slosh and splash it’s way out. It’s also important to make sure there’re still coolant remaining in the reservoir once it’s cooled back down. If there isn’t, it means either the overflow reservoir isn’t big enough, or that there’s some other leak somewhere. If you can, it would be good to try to mark this maximum level when cold for future reference. The second possible explanation for puking is your gauges weren’t accurate and your engine was in fact overheating. It’s pretty unlikely. Easy enough to confirm with some other thermometer if it starts puking again, but usually if it’s getting hot enough to boil coolant out then it’s usually obvious what’s going on. Boiled coolant pushed out under pressure, not just a gentle overflow. I wouldn’t necessarily suspect overheating, but if an open conversion was done, it may have happened in response to an overheating issue that it didn’t solve. Third reason is something tangentially related to the cooling system has failed and is filling it with something other than coolant. I wouldn’t suspect that yet without more evidence of something seriously untoward going on like fluid cross-contamination.

Doing dumb stuff at work again. Ever have someone tell you the fitting you wanted doesn’t exist? M6x1.0 to 1/8” npt to relocate three grease nipples out from under a cover plate that’s a pain to remove so maybe the bearings might occasionally get some grease. Easiest way to do this is to use a grease gun hose which means 1/8” npt fittings. I’m sure these fittings already exist but our supplier never called back and we wanted the machine done by the end of the day. So a bolt with a hole down the middle welded to a union’s going to have to do the job. Normally I’d prefer to drill out and tap the part to accept the 1/8” npt hose directly, but there wasn’t quite enough thickness in these bearing housings for that.