gogmorgo

Yeah, but cooling down the window causes the fog/frosting to deposit itself on the outside of the window... the only reason I've ever found to use the defroster is to warm up the windshield to prevent/eliminate condensation. Is there any relation between the temperature setting and the a/c coming on with the defroster? Would it come on with other settings, too? My HO is the same, although I'm not positive on exact placement of the relay in the fuse/relay block. But it's written on the cover... if the cover's still there. It's also in the owner's manual... if that's still there.

Huh, weird. Why would you want it to do that? I don't think mine does, but then again, I've never tried using the defrost with cold air... and that would seem counterproductive, as in it would be a pretty good way to contribute to condensation on the outside of the windows in my opinion. I was always under the impression that apart from the three a/c settings, it wouldn't be on.

More than likely you're hearing the relay clicking that's activating the clutch. However, I'm a little concerned about something else. I'm reasonably confident the a/c shouldn't be coming on at all in the defrost position, which is why I was asking that. It's definitely the a/c compressor doing the cycling (you've observed it with the hood open and the engine running), right? The reason I'm asking is it just occurred to me that if your blower motor were to have a loose connection, that could cause the blower fan to cycle on and off, with a "click" sound each time. But that's just a guess.

If the pressure on the low side of the system is too low (i.e. there isn't enough refrigerant) then the system will shut the compressor off. Then the refrigerant bleeds down to the low side, and there's enough pressure there for it to run again... briefly. Probably you either have a very slow leak somewhere, or else it wasn't fully charged. When recharging an a/c unit from completely empty, my experience is that the compressor simply won't turn on, then it starts cycling, staying on for longer and longer until eventually it stops cycling and is just running constantly. The switch that controls the vent setting is a vacuum switch. If there's a leak in that system, it won't change the vent setting. Are you actually getting air out of the defrost vents?

My guess is someone missed the 2 key. I'm pretty sure he's used that pic before in a similar context and said 2200lbs.

yeah, that's a whole lotta fun... somehow you've linked back to this thread... Fixed it for ya. http://www.ebay.com/sch/Complete-Engines-/33615/i.html?_nkw=diesel

I'm assuming you're still referring to braking force and contact area of the braking surfaces. If that's the case, let it be heard that area plays no part in friction, and I've done several labs demonstrating this. Force due to friction is dependent on only two variables; the force pushing the two surfaces together, and the coefficient of friction (a constant which is determined by the material(s) of the surfaces).

I'll bet... I lived in Oshawa for a couple years, and it seemed that the response to any kind of weather event between December and February was "Let's salt the roads!!!". I almost cried every time it snowed all of two inches and I saw a deuce and a half with a massive plow on the front drive by, blade up and turning the road into a gravel pit of salt.

And when you check that they're tight, do so by putting a socket on them and cranking them down until the engine starts turning.

When looking at the flexplate, they seem to like cracking around the bolts holding it onto the crankshaft. I almost didn't see my crack at first, I just barely caught a glint off one of the edges right near the center and realized there was no way that shape should be there.

Bought a brand new phone this summer... one of these guys: http://www.sonimtech.com/xp1520/xp1520_bolt.php It's not really a smartphone, although it does do internet. But it'll survive a hundred-foot drop onto pavement, and it's completely waterproof.

Yeah, I've got a 4.0/Auto as well. All autos on the Comanche are AW4's, with the exception of the 86 model year which got some Chrysler trannies, I believe. Depending on how they crack, flexplates can make a different variety of noises. Just search youtube for "jeep cracked flexplate" to hear a few. The reason I jump to this is because you say it goes away with revs. Mine does strange things. Sometimes i hear it on startup while it's warming up. Usually if I'm driving in the city and doing lots of accel/deccel, I might hear it when I stop at a light, or I might not. Sometimes when I get home after about 10 miles of highway cruise at constant speed (roughly 1800 rpm) I hear it when I stop in my driveway, sometimes I don't. But when it is making noise, it almost always goes away if I rev to above 2000 rpm, and may or may not come back when I let off the throttle. When I was trying to figure out what was making the sound, I saw a buddy in my parking lot, and rolled over a curb to get to him before he took off, and the knock started when I pushed against the curb, obviously increasing stress on the flexplatekL Then after idling for about ten minutes, it just quit making the sound. Revs didn't change, engine didn't get rougher or smoother, the sound just disappeared. But that said, I've also launched pretty hard (after a 1500 rpm brake-torque) followed by WOT, the autobox shifting almost at redline, then slamming on the brakes and dropping it down to second because OMG I FORGOT THAT LIGHT WAS RED AND THAT'S A FUEL TRUCK PULLING INTO THE INTERSECTION. And that didn't trigger it. The reason I know in my case it's my flexplate is because one, that's where the sound's coming from, and two, I pulled off the inspection plate and saw the crack. Also, I started it with the plate off, and it was pretty obvious then where the sound was coming from. This isn't to say that you definitely have a cracked flexplate. You won't know unless you look. While you've got the cover off, you should also check that the flexplate-torque converter bolts are tight, by putting a socket on them and cranking them down until you start spinning the engine. I hope for your sake, it is just a cracked flex plate. There may be a lot of labour involved, but it's still better than having to disassemble and rebuild an engine.

What engine and tranny? Is it definitely coming from the back of the engine, or could it be coming from the bellhousing area? If so, check your flywheel/flexplate. I've got a cracked flexplate, and it's causing an odd, intermittent knock. You might also want to try tightening down the flexplate to torque converter bolts.

:no: It's still poking the sleeping bear. You might not always wake him up on the first try, but that doesn't mean it's not possible.

We used 7075 aluminum for one of the parts on our FSAE car... might have been the rear chain sprocket, but it may have been for the diff hangers. As far as we could tell, it's not available from any Canadian producer, so we had some shipped up from a company in WA for our machinists. But the reason we went for it is because it's nearly comparable in strength to some steels, and it's significantly lighter. At any rate, the parts that failed on our car were all chrome-moly, so I'd say it's pretty solid... we managed to get much more torque out of our engine than we expected, and tore the diff hangers out of the frame after about 20-30 launches. Definitely the frame that failed.

Welcome. The diesel is a pretty rare thing over this side of the pond, and the MJ is a pretty rare thing over that side. Does that make yours extra rare? :brows: Looks like a pretty solid truck. Care to elaborate on the Pontiac grill?

I also have zero faith in my rusty bumper. Mine flexes enough that I'll only step on it near the brackets, and I advise other people not to stand on it at all. As far as the "Maint Reqd" light goes, in my search on how to shut it off on my, I recall that the timer can be replaced on the Renix models, or possibly even removed and reset, but you're not so lucky on the '91+, like mine, which require an incredibly rare and expensive OBD1 (Chrylser DRBII?) scanner to reset. Either way, though, it seemed like the best bet was just to pull the bulb out.

No worries. My truck was the same, but the rod was just completely gone, so i just wired up the bar. Then put it back, because front brakes only was more predictable than the disaster that was the rear brakes that hadn't done anything for a few years...

Nice looking truck. But just an FYI, the load-sensing valve on your rear axle is messed up. The rod attached to the diff should be vertical, and the bar that it attaches to should be more or less horizontal. The way the valve works, as the truck squats, the bar gets pushed upwards, which increases rear braking force. The way it's positioned now, you'll have very little going on in the back.

If you can get a decent map from Megasquirt (or someone else), it's definitely possible, but if you don't get a map, then it's a lot of work creating one... and it usually requires a dyno or a lot of skillful guessing. Unless you've got some major performance upgrades planned, though, like forced induction, it may not be worth it. But definitely worth researching. Try to find someone (probably on a forum) running one on an XJ with an HO.

Obviously I must assume that it's working even though I can't see it. :doh: My bad. I really voted yes no no. How exactly would one go about getting it fixed for $30? Could I not just go down to the pick and pull and get one that does work for less than that?

I'm intrigued... I voted no yes no, but the last no was only because I'm on a starving student budget, which is in the process of being corrected, so may change to a yes in the not-so-distant future.

Just found an ad during a search. Doesn't really interest me, but I'm a bit curious about what I'm actually looking at. The bottom (rear) bumper is just a Fey, but what's the top one? Is that an upside-down 1997+ front bumper? The guy doesn't say much in the ad: "They came off of a 1986 Comanche but apparently all Jeeps used the same bumpers in that era?!?!? $60 each or both for $100"

Don't know if they're identical to the Wrangler drain plugs, but there are already drain plugs in the floor pans, towards the front of the footwells. They may be easier to find from underneath.

Mine typically does that too. Also, I once dropped my tank (was going to replace it but the replacement Napa sent me was an Xj tank) after the low-fuel light came on, and then could barely lift it back into place with the fuel still in it. So I drained it, and there was still 10 gallons in it...