gogmorgo

So it turns out the truck's a two hour drive away on his parents' farm, and he's willing to deliver it, but only if I pay the whole $500... apparently it hasn't run for about three years, either. Anyone out there think it's worth it?

Yeah, the seat covers... I'm kinda wondering about how they relate to the er, larger gentleman on the tractor. I didn't expect the timing chain to be too big of an issue. I've never done one before, but I did read up on it. I'm just wondering what if any problem areas I should be looking at. By the way, he turned down my offer for $300, sight unseen, which I kinda expected. But I'm trying to set up a time to see it.

Lien is the official word used when owed money is associated with the vehicle. Typically it's when someone financed the vehicle and quit making payments, or they could have used the vehicle as collateral some other kind of loan.

Mostly I'm wondering if there's anything I should be looking out for with this mj, and what I could expect for mpg. As of right now, I'm getting about 17 with my 4.0 and if it's not going to gain me much, then it's not really worth it to me.

So I'm getting sick of feeding my 4.0 $70 in fuel every week, and was shopping around for an old beater econobox to try for some savings. Amid all the sub $500 listings for 4-cyl manuals, I spotted this: http://saskatoon.kijiji.ca/c-ViewAd?AdId=517423999 Any thoughts? I'm pretty busy, so I don't know how much time I'd have to put a new timing chain on it (if that's all it needs). I haven't looked at it yet, but I was thinking of offering $300 and going from there. Also not sure how much savings I'd be getting out of it...

I kinda like that stove... but I'm not sure I like it enough to ship it up here... Runs on kerosene, eh?

Like 87manche said, there's a drain tube for condensation. I'm not really sure where it goes, but I had a fridge doing this once, and I seem to remember that the tube drained into a pan near the compressor, and the heat off the compressor dried it up. At any rate, the tube can get clogged, and usually it's just that some condensation managed to freeze in there. I "fixed" it by unplugging the fridge and letting it stand open for a few days, and it didn't happen again to the best of my knowledge.

Yeah, the FEA I did showed very little going on at the extra bolt until I increased the load on the hitch to the point where most of the rest of the bracket was beyond yield stress anyway. But as I've already lost three out of the ten bolts, and that's just with the bumper on them, I'd kinda like the peace of mind that a little redundancy brings.

I've heard there's also a $1000+ yearly license/maintenance fee... But back on topic, I pulled my bumper brackets off, and there's no way I'm getting the hitch underneath them (darn) since there's five bolts on each side holding the brackets on, four on the side, and one underneath. Also, because the brackets wrap around like that, there's no way I could use the rearmost bolt for the hitch if I did manage to get a hitch bracket underneath. While I was under there, I discovered I only had eight out of ten bolts holding the bumper on, bottom one sheared off on one side, and the rear bolt on the other side was simply missing (and the rest on that side were loose), and I broke one of the bolts taking it out... So I'm going to need to find new bolts...

Sorry man, can't help you find a legal copy... I use it on the computers at school. You might be able to get something from their website (solidworks.com I think). It's pretty decent software, and will run on just about anything (so long as you've got xp, although I've seen it cook lesser computers when loading a complex model) but it's pretty pricey. A single student license is something like $150/year.

I'm just about to cut out the brackets for my hitch, but before I do, does the hitch mount under or over the bumper brackets? I feel like it would be better/stronger to have the hitch right up against the frame (probably doesn't really matter) but with the bumper bolting to the outside of its brackets, I don't think there's room for even a 1/4" plate between them. But the bumper brackets have a weird bubble thing (of unknown purpose) that would prevent bolting the hitch flat to them. Guess that's what spacers previously mentioned are for? Also, the bumper brackets have four bolts in them, so I'm planning on incorporating that bolt into the hitch brackets, even though the simulations I ran in SolidWorks show very little stress on that last bolt.

I did look into multi-fits, but couldn't find anything in a class III going for less than $150 up here. And on top of that, they would all require some slight modifications anyway. The hitch I pulled off the expedition cost me $50, will only be one piece, and (though I haven't test fit it yet) it looks like I can just cut the welds on the brackets, trim them down, drill a few holes, weld them back on, and bolt it up. But we'll see. I've only done a small amount of measurement and guesswork, so I may end up making new brackets anyway.

My MJ's got 487,000km, (about 302,000 miles). I've only had it just over a year and put on about 15,000km of that, though. The PO only put on 11,000km in just under a year, but said the guy who sold it to him claimed the engine was rebuilt around the 320,000km mark, and I suspect he's right because it doesn't burn oil.

We had some pretty serious graffiti remover at work, came in a spray bottle. Didn't really say much about it on the bottle, but when you sprayed it, it was like walking through a cloud of acetone... we had to stop using it because it dissolved plastics and melted paint off. Sounds appropriate for your purpose!

I'm not usually one for painted rims, but damn that's sexy!

We used to have a propane van in the family when I was a kid. My Dad sold it because it was getting harder and harder to find a place to have it filled. But that was the only complaint he had about it.

Don't know what the laws are on roadkill in Manitoba, but chances are pretty damn good there's no one around to do anything about it if you do choose to pick it up. And I've personally enjoyed venison tenderized by a Chevy...

This is what I plan on doing. Only thing I found at a small local yard was off an Expedition. There's scrap steel in the shop back at school I plan on using for the plates, and will likely make them there. I'll keep y'all updated on the project if you want.

Never run into anything with mine, but a couple weeks ago, I was cruising down an old grid road, doing about 60mph, then saw three signs, "railroad crossing," "bump," and "slow down". Didn't really think anything of it but took my foot off the gas. Needless to say it wasn't quite enough to get me slowed down on time. Hit the tracks at around 45-50mph, and went airborn. Slammed back down on at least three out of four bump stops (wasn't a straight and level flight, front driver's side hit first then passenger, only felt the rear right corner hit the ground) Don't think my 300,000 mile MJ appreciated it, but it took it like a champ. Drives exactly like before it happened. Crawled underneath, and beyond the cracked shock mount that was already like that, there doesn't seem to be any damage. I was going to see a friend who lived down that road, and she said the first time she drove it she did the same thing. Only her little Toyota econobox didn't survive the flight...

My odometer just rolled over 487,000. Course, that's in km. Works out to 302,000 miles.

Why do I like my MJ? Well, it's just an older kinda beat up truck to most people... until the "wait, is that a Jeep?!?" You don't see too many of them around, but they don't instantly stand out unless you know what you're looking at. It's decently quick, pretty reliable, and even though it's almost falling apart, it still feels solid to drive. When I bought it, I was shopping around for a 2nd gen Camaro, but saw the MJ and had to have it. Way more cool. I was aware of them before I saw it, but never really thought about them until this one fell into my lap. And now you could set it on fire and roll it down a hill, but I still wouldn't trade it for a Coupe Deville. All in all, I guess I'm just a big fan of trucks, a big fan of keeping it domestic, and a big fan of the unique. This one fills all bills. . :MJ 1: .

A guy from France started a thread a while back about a '92 diesel he was looking at buying. http://comancheclub.com/topic/37426-question-from-france/ so I guess that makes four. Also, as long as you do it by the book, most vehicles 15 years or older can be legally imported into Canada if you're looking for a 2.5 diesel XJ from overseas. Just something to look into.

Well send your info to K&N and all the other companies that at selling the cone style cold air intakes for $250 + i am sure that it would have the same effect it had on me. :thumbsup: Cone shaped air filters & smoother intake ducting reduce turbulence, leading to better flow. Not so noticeable at lower revs (<6000rpm). K&N's $250 kit adds a whopping seven horse above 4,000 rpm, and that's mostly down to the duct. My 4.0 doesn't spend all that much time above 4k, don't know about yours. Who knows, maybe you net a couple horse, maybe you didn't. But don't listen to me. It sure don't bother me none.

Could have been an over-protection against vibrations. Inline-fours simply don't balance without extra balancing shafts. Some are less vibey than others, but having no experience with the 2.5L, I can't really say how it does. I also don't know if it has balancing shafts or not, but I'd guess no. The GM Iron Duke doesn't.

That looks pretty slick... but I don't know how much you'd be benefiting from it. You've got less than 5in2 at the throttle body, vs the six or so at the airbox inlet, so opening up the airbox doesn't really mean much, just changes where the air comes in. Whether the air from beside the fender is cooler than the air behind the headlights is anyone's guess. But still cool to see another member from 'Toba . :MJ 1: .